First real test drive today, after V8 swap.

[DeCaff2007]

OK the results of the valve adjustment while idling AND the truth about the oil pressure, are both in.

Engine running at idle, at operating temperature.

Dash gauge. Note the oil pressure is at dead 0.

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My oil pressure gauge, threaded into the side of the block. Note the 11 (almost 12) psi at idle.

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So, even though it's minimal, it's still acceptable. I'm not worrying about the oil pressure any further at this point.

NOW, for the idle valve adjustment. Some valves definitely were adjusted too tight; taking more than one full turn to start clicking/clacking, and then less than a half turn to quiet down... and then the 1/4 turn preload.

Also, according to the aforementioned video, sometimes the engine will bog down to compensate for the sudden vacuum present in the cylinder. Yup, that happened, too. I wasn't necessarily keeping track of which cylinders or valves presented that result. I was more listening closely trying to hear when the clicking started and stopped.

Either way, there's NO QUESTION now as to the correct adjustment of the valve train.

One other thing I must mention here. Earlier, when I say the engine "starts right up", it took a good few cranks to fire. After this running valve adjustment, the engine DOES start easier. So, that's a plus.

Did it help the engine run correctly at part throttle and/or WOT? Absolutely not. Oh, and I opened the hood and gave it a good rev at idle, attempting to see where the backfiring is coming from. Definitely from the Throttle Body.

So, here's my theories as to why it's doing this.

1. Simply near zero gas in the tank. Runs decent on a level surface until given gas. STALLS when even beginning an incline. Barely starts back up and STRUGGLES to maintain the incline.

2. Bad throttle position sensor or the wiring is incorrect or faulty. I matched the wiring color for color when installed the new, smaller connector. Maybe that was wrong?

3. Faulty ICM in the distributor, at throttle. Remember, I did the spark test WHILE CRANKING THE ENGINE. NOT with it idling or at throttle.

That's all I can think of right now.

 

[Road Trip]

Dash gauge. Note the oil pressure is at dead 0.

You must be registered for see images attach

My oil pressure gauge, threaded into the side of the block. Note the 11 (almost 12) psi at idle.

You must be registered for see images attach

So, even though it's minimal, it's still acceptable. I'm not worrying about the oil pressure any further at this point.

Decaff, *outstanding*. My approach is to ensure that I'm getting accurate, reliable
readings on the important stuff like hot engine oil pressure. And then simply follow
the data wherever it leads me.

In this case, now that we know that we have adequate hot idle oil pressure, I am
in agreement that we can now set this aside, and put a tighter troubleshooting focus
elsewhere. NOTE: As long as the hot idle oil pressure stays steady at this level, then
we can wait on opening this engine back up. Or never open it up. But we *will* need
to monitor it as part of everyday driving. Therefore, either you get your moonie oil
pressure gauge to match your mechanical gauge, or tastefully install a mechanical
gauge in your cab. Your truck. Your choice.

NOW, for the idle valve adjustment. Some valves definitely were adjusted too tight; taking more than one full turn to start clicking/clacking, and then less than a half turn to quiet down... and then the 1/4 turn preload.


Also, according to the aforementioned video, sometimes the engine will bog down to compensate for the sudden vacuum present in the cylinder. Yup, that happened, too. I wasn't necessarily keeping track of which cylinders or valves presented that result. I was more listening closely trying to hear when the clicking started and stopped.

Either way, there's NO QUESTION now as to the correct adjustment of the valve train.

One other thing I must mention here. Earlier, when I say the engine "starts right up", it took a good few cranks to fire. After this running valve adjustment, the engine DOES start easier. So, that's a plus.

Good status report on the valve settings. Consider yourself in good company, for
I have set plenty of cold valve lash as carefully as possible, yet return to the same
engine after break-in and discover that a few of the 16 valves did not match the others?

One thing I *have* noticed on my own motors is that number of threads showing on
the studs above the rocker assembly as more even after a hot lash. (ie: all 16 individual
valvetrain assemblies are all set the same? And I find this to be a valuable cross-check,
for if 15 of the assemblies have, say, 4 threads showing, but the 16th assembly has
6 showing, I don't panic as long as I can explain it? (For example, a slightly bent
pushrod makes it's effective length a little shorter = another thread+ showing?)

In English, if they all match, then I document the fact and then forgettaboutit.
But if one or more are different, I will try to find out what's up? And most of
the time, a quick rolling of the questionable pushrod on a piece of glass provides
the answer. Tick Tick Tick Tick...

Anyway, I'm very happy to hear that the hot lash exercise delivered on the promise.
With the solid compression test results, the 11+ psi oil pressure at idle, and
the hot lash accomplished I now get to assume that the engine is mechanically
capable of smooth operation, and now whatever rough running issues
are left will be a more normal tune up or sensor issue.

Keep fighting the good fight. I think you now have a decent foundation to
work with, now to finish sorting out the rough running.

Thanks for the status update. Good job!

 

[Hipster]

OK the results of the valve adjustment while idling AND the truth about the oil pressure, are both in.

Engine running at idle, at operating temperature.

Dash gauge. Note the oil pressure is at dead 0.

You must be registered for see images attach

My oil pressure gauge, threaded into the side of the block. Note the 11 (almost 12) psi at idle.

You must be registered for see images attach

So, even though it's minimal, it's still acceptable. I'm not worrying about the oil pressure any further at this point.

NOW, for the idle valve adjustment. Some valves definitely were adjusted too tight; taking more than one full turn to start clicking/clacking, and then less than a half turn to quiet down... and then the 1/4 turn preload.

Also, according to the aforementioned video, sometimes the engine will bog down to compensate for the sudden vacuum present in the cylinder. Yup, that happened, too. I wasn't necessarily keeping track of which cylinders or valves presented that result. I was more listening closely trying to hear when the clicking started and stopped.

Either way, there's NO QUESTION now as to the correct adjustment of the valve train.

One other thing I must mention here. Earlier, when I say the engine "starts right up", it took a good few cranks to fire. After this running valve adjustment, the engine DOES start easier. So, that's a plus.

Did it help the engine run correctly at part throttle and/or WOT? Absolutely not. Oh, and I opened the hood and gave it a good rev at idle, attempting to see where the backfiring is coming from. Definitely from the Throttle Body.

So, here's my theories as to why it's doing this.

1. Simply near zero gas in the tank. Runs decent on a level surface until given gas. STALLS when even beginning an incline. Barely starts back up and STRUGGLES to maintain the incline.

2. Bad throttle position sensor or the wiring is incorrect or faulty. I matched the wiring color for color when installed the new, smaller connector. Maybe that was wrong?

3. Faulty ICM in the distributor, at throttle. Remember, I did the spark test WHILE CRANKING THE ENGINE. NOT with it idling or at throttle.

That's all I can think of right now.

If none were unordinarily loose in their adjustment from previous settings it's a good thing. fingers crossed

 

[DeCaff2007]

Anyway, I'm very happy to hear that the hot lash exercise delivered on the promise.

But yet, it did not. I was hoping that setting the valves during idle would SOLVE the running problem.

Anyway, what ever work I got done today will have to suffice for now. Were supposed to get a frikken snow storm.

Bol locks.

 

[DeCaff2007]

If none were unordinarily loose in their adjustment from previous settings it's a good thing. fingers crossed

Not at all. Some were in fact too tight.

This brings me no closer to the solution. Not sure where to look next, after putting more gas in the tank.

 

[Hipster]

Not at all. Some were in fact too tight.

This brings me no closer to the solution. Not sure where to look next, after putting more gas in the tank.

That's really good thing.

 

[tayto]

But yet, it did not. I was hoping that setting the valves during idle would SOLVE the running problem.

Anyway, what ever work I got done today will have to suffice for now. Were supposed to get a frikken snow storm.

Bol locks.

a lot of your running problems is because you have aftermarket aluminum heads & cam on a stock tune

TPS:

 

[Sean Buick 76]

With near zero oil pressure raise the idle speed to give it sone pressure! Better yet pull the engine out

 

[Hipster]

a lot of your running problems is because you have aftermarket aluminum heads & cam on a stock tune

TPS:

Stated a few times it was a stock cam, but if not it wouldn't be the first time he fibbed. If not stock he really needs to make that known. I know he asked about cams etc and was advised not to do it unless he was ready to tune. Who knows. The threads are full of good advice. He went off did his things his way , and most times it backfired on him. No pun intended. believe you were involved in some of the threads..

 

[tayto]

With near zero oil pressure raise the idle speed to give it sone pressure! Better yet pull the engine out

he will need to do PROM tuning to achieve this at least for it to stay permanently. i thought he had a cam but i guess not...

Stated a few times it was a stock cam, but if not it wouldn't be the first time he fibbed. If not stock he really needs to make that known. I know he asked about cams etc and was advised not to do it unless he was ready to tune. Who knows. The threads are full of good advice. He went off did his things his way , and most times it backfired on him. No pun intended. believe you were involved in some of the threads..

ya i was, there was a lot that went on those.... i could be remembering wrong about the cam but i definitely remember the aluminum heads with angled plugs. either way, with more modern cambers the engine is going to be more efficient so fueling will be different (probably lean that's why it's coughing through the throttle body). stock swirl heads need a lot less timing than a sbc head, even vortecs. they like around 25* all in. the aftermarket heads will probably like 28-32* if i was guessing so the engine will definitely be underwhelming. you could try turning the dist 8-10* more to see if it helps but ultimately you need to do tuning.

on the topic of cams, were the cam bearings replaced? they are the main source of where the oil goes to either the bottom end or valve train. worn cam bearings, worn cam or both could be the source of your low oil pressure.

EDIT: wasnt there a whole cam
break in issue on the first round of this???