Dug into my front suspension today. Now I have a steering knuckle question.

[Schurkey]

Reinstall WHAT?

The control arms onto the torsion bars? The torsion bars onto the keys in the crossmember? The crossmember onto the frame? The control arms into the frame brackets? The whole steering knuckle/tie rod ends/CV shaft/sway bar/shocks/bump stops after the lower control arm is in place?

 

[454cid]

So Schurkey was referring to the bushings, not the Tbars. Is that correct?

No, the t-bars. The T-bars don't have to come out to replace the bushings. I think there is enough play that once the control arm bolts are removed, the whole assembly will drop down, giving you enough room to work, on the bushings.

 

[Schurkey]

No, the t-bars. The T-bars don't have to come out to replace the bushings. I think there is enough play that once the control arm bolts are removed, the whole assembly will drop down, giving you enough room to work, on the bushings.

I had to pry the control arm down about an inch or inch and a half with a long pry-bar, to get the rear bushing rubber out. It would be about the same if removing the entire bushing shell, depending on tool clearance.

 

[DeCaff2007]

Reinstall WHAT?

The control arms onto the torsion bars? The torsion bars onto the keys in the crossmember? The crossmember onto the frame? The control arms into the frame brackets? The whole steering knuckle/tie rod ends/CV shaft/sway bar/shocks/bump stops after the lower control arm is in place?

Specifically, the Tbars into the cross member and keys. It seems the keys should be clocked a certain way. Then, hopefully I've got everything cleaned up enough that the Tbars will go in the keys w/out much trouble. Everything else shouldn't be much hassle.

 

[termite]

Specifically, the Tbars into the cross member and keys. It seems the keys should be clocked a certain way. Then, hopefully I've got everything cleaned up enough that the Tbars will go in the keys w/out much trouble. Everything else shouldn't be much hassle.

Trial and error was the only way I found when reinstalling mine last year.

 

[DeCaff2007]

I got the bracket fixed today.

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Now, if you all remember I said I notched out the cross member to get the keys out? Well I had to use gasless flux to weld it. I find it ridiculous that a 110V MIG can't punch through 1/8" steel.

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The reason the cross member looks wet is because I sprayed some Metal Ready on the the welds to prevent everything from rusting up.

It doesn't look pretty, but it's SOLID.

Next, I have to fix the bump stop bracket on the frame, and well, the parts of the frame where I took the cross member don't look great.

@Schurkey, Maybe it's a good thing I had to take the cross member off after all, because I would have never seen the spots I now have to fix.

Also, I have new cross member bushings on order, I'm going to grab all new hardware this week, the wheel hubs FINALLY came in, and now the last part I'm waiting on is a passenger side steering knuckle. I'm still undecided if I want one from a yard (maybe more trouble than it's worth), or just pony up the $$ and get a new one. They are actually available, but of course ridiculously expensive.

One additional thing I should mention. My Wife was watching me weld and said "You make a lot of extra work for yourself."

I about shut down when I heard that, both mentally and physically.

So, after this POS is on the road, I'm done with anything automotive for at least the rest of the winter. I'm not going to lie, this damned hobby-turned-necessity is draining me in a number of ways. It all started with having to replace a radiator on an 01 Saturn SL1 in my parents back yard. It was still fun back then.

Now, 20 some years later, I'm do it because I feel like there's no turning back. That, and I need my friggen garage bay back! If one of my daily drivers breaks down in the middle of winter, I'm screwed b/c I'll have no where to work on it, that is, until this POS can at least be rolled out of there on 4 wheels.

 

[454cid]

Maybe I missed it..... is this an SUV and not a truck? I think only the SUV's got the T-bars mounted in rubber. I'm pretty sure mine is mounted solidly to the frame.

 

[DeCaff2007]

Maybe I missed it..... is this an SUV and not a truck? I think only the SUV's got the T-bars mounted in rubber. I'm pretty sure mine is mounted solidly to the frame.

It's a truck, for sure. Well regardless of any speculation, there's definitely rubber bushings on that cross member, and they are definitely factory original.

 

[DeCaff2007]

This finally came in today. Moot point now.

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I'm literally waiting on 3 parts, and a little bit more welding. Then, I can start putting this POS back together and, at very least, get it out of the garage under its own power.

 

[Nad_Yvalhosert]

Maybe I missed it..... is this an SUV and not a truck? I think only the SUV's got the T-bars mounted in rubber. I'm pretty sure mine is mounted solidly to the frame.

I've only seen the medium wheelbase SUVs, 4 door Tahoe & Yukon, with different torsion bar x-members.

Or said this way, I've seen pickups, Suburban, and 2 door Blazer, that have the 54" torsion bars have the bracket and rubber bushings. The crossmember for the 52" bars, on the 4 door Tahoe & Yukon, is suspended by dog bone mounts.