coryforsenate
Newbie
Well %$$! me, this is the third time in the past six I've had an ignition switch go bad. The original lasted about 20 years. The GM one I installed about 6 years ago lasted 4 years, the generic one from the autoparts store lasted 2 years. Parts these days are such pieces of $hit. I always second guess assuming a fairly new part isn't the problem but it sometimes comes back to bite me.
I've got an open loop on
off position C1-D5
Start position C1-D1 and D1-D5
Since the replacement GM one lasted 4 years I ordered that same one, arrives tomorrow, rather than trying another autoparts one today that only lasted two years.
The resistor for the blower motor arrived today, will see if that fixes the blower motor.
It's not letting me post the picture but here's a link to the diagram I used
https://easyautodiagnostics.com/images/articles-600-699/680/682/image_3.webp
For anyone interested who's having the same problem, here's the troubleshooting steps I used, same as when I diagnosed the bad one two years ago.
CASE 1: Continuity exists between the indicated terminals. This test result tells you that the ignition switch is OK and not defective.
CASE 2: Continuity DOES NOT exist between some or all of the indicated terminals. This test result tells you that the ignition switch is defective and needs to be replaced.
I've got an open loop on
off position C1-D5
Start position C1-D1 and D1-D5
Since the replacement GM one lasted 4 years I ordered that same one, arrives tomorrow, rather than trying another autoparts one today that only lasted two years.
The resistor for the blower motor arrived today, will see if that fixes the blower motor.
It's not letting me post the picture but here's a link to the diagram I used
https://easyautodiagnostics.com/images/articles-600-699/680/682/image_3.webp
For anyone interested who's having the same problem, here's the troubleshooting steps I used, same as when I diagnosed the bad one two years ago.
- Disconnect the negative terminal from the negative battery post.
- Disconnect the ignition switch from the vehicle wiring harness connector at the base of the steering column.
- Place your multimeter in Ohms mode.
- Place the ignition key in the ACC position.
You should have continuity between terminals D2 and D6 of the ignition switch connector.
- Place the ignition key in the OFF position.
You should have continuity between terminals C1 and D5 of the ignition switch connector.
- Place the ignition key in the RUN position.
TEST A: You should have continuity between terminals C1, C5, and D5.
TEST B: You should also have continuity between terminals C6, D2, and D6 of the ignition switch connector.
- Hold the ignition key in the START position.
You should have continuity between terminals C1, C5, D1, and D5 of the ignition switch connector.
CASE 1: Continuity exists between the indicated terminals. This test result tells you that the ignition switch is OK and not defective.
CASE 2: Continuity DOES NOT exist between some or all of the indicated terminals. This test result tells you that the ignition switch is defective and needs to be replaced.