Project Ted, a 1993 RCSB 496 Build

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Justin S

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Good to know! Don't know if I already mentioned it, but I went with 2" drop spindles, and cut a half loop out of the stock springs. They were originally from a v6, so i'm assuming that they will sit a little lower with the big block. I read somewhere on here that half a coil drops close to an inch, so I figure between the two, it should be about 4. I am already planning on rolling all of the fender lips and lower arms are trimmed, so should be good to go!
 

sewlow

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Too bad we're so far away from each other.
I have several sets of springs around here. Some stock BBC's, 2" lowered BBC's, stock SBC's, stock V6's & a 1" drop set of V6's.
If we were closer, you could of had your choice for the asking! Shipping would be stupid $$$!
I really need to thin out the stuff in that GMT400-specific storage shed!
 

Justin S

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Too bad we're so far away from each other.
I have several sets of springs around here. Some stock BBC's, 2" lowered BBC's, stock SBC's, stock V6's & a 1" drop set of V6's.
If we were closer, you could of had your choice for the asking! Shipping would be stupid $$$!
I really need to thin out the stuff in that GMT400-specific storage shed!
Yeah, I used the v6 ones because they were rust free, the ones I pulled from the truck were for a small block, but they are pretty rusty. I just figured that i'd save a little money and reuse springs since i've been dumping so much money into other parts of the truck. Same goes for shipping, I recently sold the rear diff assembly from my 95 Sidekick on ebay. It comes out like a Ford 9", so had everything together. Fit into a reasonably small box, but weighed 55 lbs. I figured it would be about $50 or so to ship, turned out to be $98.
 

Justin S

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So i've been tossing up the idea of bringing the engine to a shop with an engine dyno so it can be broken in and tuned properly before I drop it in. I know it would probably be a little expensive, but I've put so much money into the engine, the last thing I want to do is round off a cam lobe right off the bat and send metal shavings throughout the block. I've heard people who recommend removing the inner rocker springs, and swapping over to a smaller ratio rocker, but I asked the shop who I bought it from and they say its perfectly fine to break in as is. I also want to drop the drivetrain in before getting the cab back on so everything is easier to get to, and I could pretty much pop it all in now to move things along. Now that I have a rolling chassis again, I might end up going with just dropping it in and seeing what happens when the time comes.
 

Justin S

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Ok, after a little more research and some help from other members, I think i'm gonna just pop it in and see how it goes. If it works out, it will save me lots of time and money, if it doesn't it will probably cost me the same, it will be a learning experience. That does get me itching to get a few more things done to the frame so I can get the drivetrain in, and next step will be trying to make myself a hydriaulic TOB alignment tool so I don't have to spend $75 on something i'll use probably once.
 

Justin S

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Made myself a throwout bearing spacer tool for free. I saw them online for $70 but looked simple enough to make, and the listing even showed dimensions to make it easier.
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Justin S

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Picked up a pilot bearing and an engine lift plate from Advance Auto this morning, I think i'm gonna spend a couple hours out in the barn tonight and see if I can't get the engine and transmission in place, should be pretty easy since there is no body! I may or may not have a clutch alignment tool that will fit, but i'm sure I can figure something out.
 

Justin S

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Got the engine and trans on the chassis tonight! Went pretty smoothly, installed the new pilot bearing, and new hydraulic throwout bearing (my homemade tool worked great!) along the way. I didn't have the correct clutch alignment tool. the only one I had thick enough was from my old 94 GMT, but had the coarse spline, so I "afro engineered" it to get it to work. I ended up having to move the trans crossmember forwards to fit the trans, but luckily the frame already has holes in the perfect location! Weird fact, the bolts have a rounded off top, with squares molded on just below to help keep them in place while tightening, however, the holes in the frame and crossmemember are round, so it was kind of a pain to remove them. Popped the headers on just for looks and to free up parts space. Also got a couple more pics of the new coffee table. On top of all that, the Yankees had an awesome game so it was a super night!
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