Project: BootyFab

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silver98z71

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I'm probably just going to do a single strap in the center, since I can droop one shock all the way out and compress the other without it coming apart. We'll see though. I'm drilling and tapping for hydro tomorrow.
 

silver98z71

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I've given it some thought. I have to get my R&D dont first, hopefully one truck will get their brackets before Thanksgiving and he'll be beating the snot out of it before the next two or three trucks get theirs.
 

silver98z71

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Aight, depending on how quick/hard my R&D truck gets beat; I could get some brackets out during the summer.
 

silver98z71

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I am a little nervous about peeling my diff covers open on the rare occasion I'm off the pavement, and instead of taking the time and headache I figured it was worth the money to buy some instead. But I saved a little cash by purchasing the DIY covers from BlueTorch. They should be here directly.
http://bluetorchfab.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=19_21_22&products_id=273
http://bluetorchfab.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=19_21_22&products_id=275

Also, the diff breather tubes are a bit short. So I have a pair of these accordion breather things.
http://www.trail-gear.com/differential-breather

My OD tube clamp came in Friday, I couldn't find a clamp for a < 1 1/4" OD tube but got the smallest I could find and will modify it or just tighten it a lot for my 1 3/16" tierod. So, now for my hydro I need to measure for and go purchase the lines and drill/tap my box. I'd love to have assist done this week, but I'm not going to hold my breath.
 

bggrnchvy

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Planning to surface those covers after you glue them together?

Also, be careful about that tube clamp. The idea is that it matches the ID so that you get alot of surface area in contact. I've found even with it all in spec something as innocuous as paint on the tie rod will mean you have to retorque the clamping screws once or twice every day of wheeling to prevent it from slipping under significant load. I ended up burning some heavy tacks on either side of the clamp so it wouldn't slip even if the screws backed off a hair.
 

silver98z71

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Surfacing, as in face the gasket surface? I'll hit it a good lick with a long straight block of metal with some small "grid" looking sand paper.

Thanks for the heads up on the clamp. My tierod will possibly end up getting sleeved and then I'll bore the ID of the clamp to match, but I could tack them to make sure they stay adequately tight.

Kyle, what are your thoughts on the accordion style vents?
 

bggrnchvy

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Surfacing, as in face the gasket surface? I'll hit it a good lick with a long straight block of metal with some small "grid" looking sand paper.

Thanks for the heads up on the clamp. My tierod will possibly end up getting sleeved and then I'll bore the ID of the clamp to match, but I could tack them to make sure they stay adequately tight.

Kyle, what are your thoughts on the accordion style vents?

Yes, gasket surface. I was more thinking skim cut on a mill to surface it. I know all the homebuilt ones without it I've ever seen seep.

On the accordian vents I feel much as they do on Pirate. You need to have an accoridan vent adequately sized for the cavity and fluid you're venting. A tiny unit for a snomobile or an ATV isn't going to keep up with the changes in a 1 ton rear diff. Just my $.02.
 
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