Need some advice on a 454 vortec top end rebuild

[454ss]

that would be best if you have the cash but if you don't, id get it together and flush it hot. google plugged heater cores, there are cleaning chemicals that work excellent to break down crap. the amount of cash you will have into this you may as well buy a crate long block with a warranty. you said you had no money but it seems you do so buy a long block and be done with it. better yet if its a play toy mud truck, ditch the efi computer crap and go with a crate 502 or 572. by time you do all this and lift it with a sas you would be way better off and money ahead buying a 73-87 1-ton and just putting a 8" spring lift on it and running 44s on 14" wide wheels with minor fender trimming, that's what I did for a toy. the old square body frames are mich stronger anyway, just address the frame at the steering box and beef it up with the support brackets.

 

[techweenie]

I really don't have money, but I have available credit. I'm headed out of town tonight for a week, so I got some time to sort things out. Gonna wait a few weeks to get some cash built up then I can proceed pulling the block and doing it right. I have another engine that I was going to rebuild first, but this truck is more important. I have four vehicles now and only two run. One is for sale, it's a 2002 ZR2.

 

[great white]

I really don't have money, but I have available credit. I'm headed out of town tonight for a week, so I got some time to sort things out. Gonna wait a few weeks to get some cash built up then I can proceed pulling the block and doing it right. I have another engine that I was going to rebuild first, but this truck is more important. I have four vehicles now and only two run. One is for sale, it's a 2002 ZR2.

Credit is the devil. Literally the devil.

Not to be negative, but I wouldn't use it to get this particular truck running if you have alternate means of reliable transportation.

Given your description so far of the rest of the truck, it's going to be anything but reliable. Keep in mind I can't "see" the vehicle over the internet, but you are painting a picture of a very abused vehicle.

Translation: Money pit.

A toy (IE: mud truck) isn't something that should drain your bank account or run up a credit bill.

Just looking at what you though here was a simple head gasket change you are now into bottom end. You're slipping down that slope and it's gonna cost you.

I would suggest that if you intend to rebuild the engine, you pull it and strip it. Send it out to be hot tanked and do a quality bottom end. Then work on the heads.

Or cut your losses, abandon the current block and save your pennies for a decent drop in rebuild or crate engine.

Once it's back together, start in on the rest of the truck but just go to the solid axle you want. Rebuilding the IFS front end is money better spent on the solid axle if you intend to go there anyways.

If you've got an auto it will be a 4L80E in a 3500. 98 is kind of a crossover year for the 80 so it may or may not have the hardened internals and assorted "upgrades". It will be a rear oiler for sure, so that's a plus. Hollow input may or may not be there, the hollow is considered weaker. It may require attention soon also from the lack of maintenance this truck seems to have suffered. The 4L80E is a very robust transmission, but like all things mechanical it does not suffer abuse or neglect lightly. That's more money you might be spending. If the fluid is brown, it's probably old or at least has been overheated. Neither is a good sign.....

 

[IOWNJUNK]

Credit is how I ended up paying $10,000 for a lawn mower. Live n learn.

 

[454ss]

idiots born every day. if you cant afford a payment you cant afford a parts or repair bill.

 

[great white]

Credit is how I ended up paying $10,000 for a lawn mower. Live n learn.

I hope it was at least a ride on with a drink holder for that price!

 

[techweenie]

I fully agree with you guys that credit is bad. As such, I decided to finish pulling the block so the internals don't rust and let it sit for a while. It's the sole reason I'm broke right now. It will be cheaper to finish working on my blazer and will also clear space in my garage. In the meantime I'll plan out how I want to build the 454 and let parts trickle in. By the way the truck is an auto with the 4l80e and Borg warner floor shift t-case. Also a crew cab long bed.

 

[great white]

Make sure you give the bores a light spray of an oil product to protect them while in storage.

Rust never sleeps.....

 

[techweenie]

Yea i've already drenched it in WD40. Supposedly it's protective properties still apply after it evaporates. Do you guys have any recommendations for how to get massive torque out of these motors? I figure mud pits are a full throttle event so I need strong mid to high end. Comp cams has a few interesting options, but I'm not sure what supporting mods need to be done.

My "little" 4.3 is getting 1.6 roller rockers and headers. That will be plenty for the trails it does. I wish I could cram a 4l80e under it. I've already killed two 60's.

 

[great white]

Yea i've already drenched it in WD40. Supposedly it's protective properties still apply after it evaporates. Do you guys have any recommendations for how to get massive torque out of these motors? I figure mud pits are a full throttle event so I need strong mid to high end. Comp cams has a few interesting options, but I'm not sure what supporting mods need to be done.

My "little" 4.3 is getting 1.6 roller rockers and headers. That will be plenty for the trails it does. I wish I could cram a 4l80e under it. I've already killed two 60's.

A 4L80e will bolt up to a 4.3, bit it has a higher parasitic loss than the 4L60E.

If you're killing 60's with a 4.3, I would suggest you look closer at the transmission rebuilds you are getting....