my SAS ?'s thread

[Swims350]

that is what I wondered if I had to do crossover or hi steer?

if not then what can I run for steering on my sas?

I aint looking for huge lift, 8-9 inches total if that.

Also now if I were to have to use crossover or something then I know it was said a d60, but if I found a dana 44 is it the same as a chevy 10 even if it's a ford dana 44? meaning the ps knuckle has to be changed?


As for the chevy steering the steering arm on the axle is what is u shaped, the pitman arm sticks outwards towards the tire instead of back towards the cab like normal gmt 400's or 2wd 73-87's.

 

[outalne94z71]

I fail to see your logic here regarding legality of a heim versus a TRE. aren't TRE in single sheer? I've run heims, both single and double sheer for years on road driven vehicles. assuming that you assemble/secure the joint correctly, small misalignment spacer so that the heim body does not contact the knuckle and use a grade 8 bolt with castle nut, you will be right as rain.

I do not have the sheer value of a TRE and I will research this to verify or provide actual numbers. I would anticipate the grade 8 bolt to be significantly stronger than a TRE.



what you describing sounds more like a improperly designed front end and not an improper spring rate. A properly valved shock would dampen your "nose dive" by absorbing the force of the mass when compressing the front suspension, but niether spring rate of dampening have nothing to do with returning to ride height. That said you are also running a 8" lift spring which is a whole different animal than a near flat stock spring. As for the suspension squatting, sounds like 1. your shackle angle is less than ideal and your inverting the shackle locking the spring down. 2. your shackle bolts are too tight 3. your spring clamps might be binding. It sounds like what you added the AAL you limited the ability of the spring to compress and not allow what or where ever the binding was occuring to not occur

I wheel (and wheel hard) with plenty of people that run 52"s all the way to 63's (or 64 depends on who measures it) in the front with various motors and weights and none of them have any of the issues you described.

I write this not to insult you or your design, I am simply guessing based on my experience and not intending to get in a pissing match.

a grade 8 bolt is weaker than a tre, there was a whole discussion on the strength on pavementsucks years ago.

shocks only dampen to a point, if the spring is too soft it will still compress as shocks provide no lift, that is why it needed more spring rate to hold all the weight up front, right now i have tons of flex and the diving/lifting issue was solved, my shackles never invert as i built longer shackles which in turn also add more flex due to being able to utilize all the arch the 8" lift springs have, my shocks actually are my limiting factor in my flex due to i can flex till they are maxed out, if i disconnect them i can get to the end of the rti ramp

 

[outalne94z71]

that is what I wondered if I had to do crossover or hi steer?

if not then what can I run for steering on my sas?

I aint looking for huge lift, 8-9 inches total if that.

Also now if I were to have to use crossover or something then I know it was said a d60, but if I found a dana 44 is it the same as a chevy 10 even if it's a ford dana 44? meaning the ps knuckle has to be changed?


As for the chevy steering the steering arm on the axle is what is u shaped, the pitman arm sticks outwards towards the tire instead of back towards the cab like normal gmt 400's or 2wd 73-87's.

with a sas you must use crossover, the front rear pull of the 73-87 will not work on the gmt400 frame unless maybe you cut and graft the older frame onto yours

 

[dirtridinz71]

Hi-steer is not needed, that just puts the TRE link above the spring pack, for added saftey when offroad. Also with any D44 you will have to have the passenger side knuckle machined, drilled and tapped

 

[Swims350]

ok if hi steer is not needed then what do you use?

crossover and hi steer is the same right?

why would the frame need changed? you could not just use the old style pitman arm and such.

 

[outalne94z71]

ok if hi steer is not needed then what do you use?

crossover and hi steer is the same right?

why would the frame need changed? you could not just use the old style pitman arm and such.

crossover is not the same as high steer, high steer has everything mounted up top of the axle including the center link, crossover is just the drag link from driver side attached to either the pass side knuckle or tied into the center link on the passenger side like a jeep

the 73-87 box is mounted outside the frame yours is inside and the frame is wider and the box rides at a different angle, i would have to go take measurements but i am 90% sure even if you swapped the older sector shaft into your box that you still could not get the older front rear steering to either clear the frame or have the right angle for the steering to function properly

 

[outalne94z71]

Hi-steer is not needed, that just puts the TRE link above the spring pack, for added safety when offroad. Also with any D44 you will have to have the passenger side knuckle machined, drilled and tapped

drilled and tapped yes but machining is not really necessary

 

[Swims350]

that's what I thought, not stick out far enough to work right.

I was just looking for a simple cheap way to make it work with a chevy axle and such.

really for me to have to pay like $2xx for the 10b/44 knuckle and then pay like 1xx for the arm to mount on top, plus whatever else I can't find dirt cheap, like maybe an axle, or transfer case, or even leaf springs etc. I may be better off to just use stinky ifs and get a lift.

Getting parts for sas works in my favor being able to spend smaller amounts at a time that's for sure, but it seems like best way is a ford d60 and it's not gonna be cheap.

 

[outalne94z71]

that's what I thought, not stick out far enough to work right.

I was just looking for a simple cheap way to make it work with a chevy axle and such.

really for me to have to pay like $2xx for the 10b/44 knuckle and then pay like 1xx for the arm to mount on top, plus whatever else I can't find dirt cheap, like maybe an axle, or transfer case, or even leaf springs etc. I may be better off to just use stinky ifs and get a lift.

Getting parts for sas works in my favor being able to spend smaller amounts at a time that's for sure, but it seems like best way is a ford d60 and it's not gonna be cheap.

a 77.5-79 ford 60 is not cheap but if you think you may ever go bigger then you are ahead of the game, if not then you at least have overkill and less chance of breaking

for knuckles from a d44 you need 73-76 chevy d44 in a pair and put on any high pinion ford 44 except the reg cab 78-79 f150 d44, club cab f150 had a leaf option
realistically a d60 with 4:10 as they usually have is around $900 these days with the bad economy, chevy ones have been $300-500 around here, then bds springs i know had been about $400 for the 47" springs, other brands are usually cheaper, then the ubolts are about $15 ea and then the steering and track bar about another $200, then figure in possibly rebuilding brakes, shocks, longer brake hoses and front driveshaft and last the cost of spring hangers

 

[Swims350]

yea no doubt, with that I'll stick with a chevy 10 bolt, much cheaper. May be weaker but my best may be 35's or even 37 or something close at best and mostly all mall crawler.

I'd rather spend the bucks on a cheap axle and buy the knuckle to make the crossover work, since the d60 is that high, I'd think and hope I could get a 10b and knuckle for half the price of a d60.

I wanted a 6+3 and run 37's or bigger on the ifs and I know that's gonna eat parts, so may spend the cash on sas is what I thought. I'll be keeping an eye out and gathering parts anyways to see what I can build sometime.