Improved handling

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Mr Wes

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I might have missed it, but do you have part numbers for all your suspension mods? Thanks!
 

BCChevyZ71

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I might have missed it, but do you have part numbers for all your suspension mods? Thanks!
No part numbers but all easily found on Google...front is belltech 3" drop keys, rough country steering stabilizer, energy suspension poly swaybar bushings, a-team perf. solid front 30mm sway bar, the back is belltech 2" drop hangers meant for a tahoe? I believe or suburban, generic amazon special 3" drop shackles, belltech shock extenders/relocation brackets, hellwig rear swaybar kit, energy suspension poly bump stops, belltech shim kit to adjust driveline angles, and a set of 4 belltech street perf. shocks...that's the parts list no special sauce by any means just took bits and pieces from all over to achieve what I want...it'd take me longer to track down all the part numbers rather then just you searching it up via the part names
 

BCChevyZ71

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So figured I'd post an update seeing as this got far more interest and questions then anticipated. Solid front swaybar is in and I ran it down my little test track of turns. It doesn't wanna weight transfer hard to the outside tire as it did least not as bad. My old swaybar was in fairly rough shape and I feel comfortable in saying likely doesn't carry the same tension it did brand new. It's noticeably better physically rocking the truck from the outside and the suspension yields very little movement, but I get a lot out of the sidewalls of my tires. The next move would be to step up to an 18 or 20 and a smaller sidewall to eliminate the movement from the tires buuuut I like my rallys and radial t/a's. I'm a bit bias as I spec'ed it out but I really think this is a winning combo for anyone who wants a sporty lowered 4WD daily. If your after the look but not stressed about the handling I'd do exactly what I've done minus the swaybars without my swaybars it rode better then stock with them she's pretty stiff. I'm totally into answering any other questions anyone might have about the suspension on my truck
 

Drunkcanuk

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I'm glad you seen some improvement, happier that you are going to be looking at upgrading your wheel and tire situation. In my humble opinion, that will be the biggest difference you can make.
I would stay around 17" personally, as that leaves enough sidewall for bumps and potholes, but significantly shorter than the 15". Any bigger and you start bending rims up when you hit rough patches.
Look around, there are companies making rally style wheels in bigger diameters.
 

Alteca

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I’m on 20s now with 28.7” tires, like @Drunkcanuk said they are a bit harsh sometimes so I would recommend 18s with a bit more sidewall but not enough sidewall for a bunch of deflection. Partially for looks and partly for weight I plan on stepping down to 19s one day and would do 18s if my front brakes would fit in them…
 

BCChevyZ71

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If I change up tires will likely be to a set of factory 18" OEM rims off a newer silverado or tahoe, and some stickies. I won't be making that change for a long while though as I just put the new tires on my rally rims. We'll see in the future if I decide to make the change when the time comes
 

Scooterwrench

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One thing I learned kart racing is don't loose to much sidewall when selecting tires. It's a term called side bite. The sidewall will flex and help keep the tread planted. I see you're running BFG's. Cooper Cobras have a softer compound,hence more grip,less lifespan.
 

Sean Buick 76

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Next time you have the rear wheels off can you please snap a few pics of the lowering setup? 2” drop hanger and 2” drop shackles? It’s exactly what I’m doing to mine complete with the 3” keys up front. Your front looks lower than 31” to the fender?
 

BCChevyZ71

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So I read the opposite BFG was more the "performance" tire then the cooper's ‍lol oh well...I'm 2" drop hangers and a 3" drop shackle but I can definitely snap a pic next time I've got the tires off
 
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