Improved handling

[Sean Buick 76]

I believe my truck was already spec'ed with 3/4 ton bars with the F44 pkg? I could be very wrong about that...and cool! Sorento is a nice place! I'm gonna be at the lethbridge car show the street wheelers weekend I just seen your in AB

Nice I’m up by Edmonton. I’m doing the exact same lowering setup on my 4x4, it’s a 2500 6 lug so it’s got the stiff torsion bars up front. That’s why I was asking for pics if it. My front fenders are 34.5” from the ground and 36” in the rear before the drop parts. Do you mind measuring where your fender heights are (ground to fender lip). I’m switching the leaf packs out for 1500 versions as I don’t need the payload of the 2500 springs. Mine will be a turbocharged built SBC and it’s a NV-4500 5 speed which is rare.

The RPO codes in the glove box should list the torsion bar code if I remember correctly. I went through your situation on my 01 Yukon after the 6” lift. The torsion bars just seemed too soft. It turned out I had the softest versions so I swapped them for the stiffest versions.

 

[BCChevyZ71]

Nice I’m up by Edmonton. I’m doing the exact same lowering setup on my 4x4, it’s a 2500 6 lug so it’s got the stiff torsion bars up front. That’s why I was asking for pics if it. My front fenders are 34.5” from the ground and 36” in the rear before the drop parts. Do you mind measuring where your fender heights are (ground to fender lip). I’m switching the leaf packs out for 1500 versions as I don’t need the payload of the 2500 springs. Mine will be a turbocharged built SBC and it’s a NV-4500 5 speed which is rare.

The RPO codes in the glove box should list the torsion bar code if I remember correctly. I went through your situation on my 01 Yukon after the 6” lift. The torsion bars just seemed too soft. It turned out I had the softest versions so I swapped them for the stiffest versions.

I believe my fenders are basically all 30.25" with 245/75r16 tires I'd have to re-measure with my new tires though

 

[BCChevyZ71]

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So that's with the 3" belltech drop keys I'm as low on them as I can go with these keys up front and 5" total drop using 2" drop spring hangers and 3" drop shackles no c notch out back...I could likely do a c-notch and justify it but I'm gonna let it ride for now and see how it is. It sits on 275/60r15 BFG Radial T/A's and 15" OEM rally rims puts me at 28" tall and 11" wide it's a fat stance...and these photos are from today as it sits right now. The drop hangers I believe for a suburban or tahoe I had to drill two new holes and the rear shackles are for a GMT800 and all the supporting mods I believe I listed in my first post on this thread

 

[Alteca]

How are your front cv angles?

 

[BCChevyZ71]

They are angled up slightly if memory serves me correct but nothing seems to be binding at all I've run it up a summit pass in 4WD with it like this and no issues to speak of...give me a bit and I'll snap a photo of them

 

[BCChevyZ71]

How are your front cv angles?

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It works honestly like I said there's no binding honestly I hate my rod angles more then anything if I could flip then I'd be happier it tips the top of the tire more then I care for under full lock

 

[Alteca]

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It works honestly like I said there's no binding honestly I hate my rod angles more then anything if I could flip then I'd be happier it tips the top of the tire more then I care for under full lock

The angle on those cv axles look to be in an acceptable range IMO. I’m not sure what you are referring to for “rod angles” tie rod angles? Also not sure on what you mean by “tips the top of the tire more”

 

[BCChevyZ71]

The angle on those cv axles look to be in an acceptable range IMO. I’m not sure what you are referring to for “rod angles” tie rod angles? Also not sure on what you mean by “tips the top of the tire more”

Sorry I'm on cold medicine right now so the brain is running half mast. My tie rods right now mimic the angle of my CV's they are angled up while not a big deal I feel like its not the ideal. I notice my tire cambers a lot as I'm turning the closer I get to full lock I believe it's called "thrust camber"? I know it's totally normal, but I feel like after lowering the truck it's excessive. My brain says flattening out my tie rods would help with that, but likely it's my upper control arm angles that's causing the extreme thrust camber. Its all part of the learning curve I've tried looking for a corrective upper control arm but no one makes one for a lowered truck only lifted. I thought about flipping the control arms in an attempt to take some of the angle out of the ball joint but I have nowhere near enough faith that it would actually work to try it. Its realistically just the nature of the beast and something I'll have to live with as a result of lowering a 4WD truck.

 

[Alteca]

That would be your caster angle making it camber closer to full lock. As long as caster is in an acceptable range I would not worry about it, it will actually help with your cornering goals unless it’s a super excessive amount. The increased scrub radius from those wheels might make it look a bit worse than it is as well. Those tie rod angles could be causing some bump steer, you might be able to get a bump steer correction kit for it. As far as the upper control arm I think it just is what it is without doing some serious custom suspension work.

 

[BCChevyZ71]

Good to know...all part of that learning curve this is more in depth with steering and suspension then I've ever gotten...surprisingly steering wise it's really good doesn't wander grab ruts in the road or bump steer. I'm a firm believer my steering stabilizer made a big difference in conjunction with proper maintenance of course. It does want to plow and push the front end at full lock low speed maneuvers especially on light gravel..may be one of those things its always done and im just noticing it more now because I'm paying closer attention.