I know nothing, so how does this look?

[bygddy]

Drop spindles and drop arms put the spring pocket too close to the ground. The pockets will scrape all the time.

The raised lower ball joint in addition to the heated coil puts the upper control arm in a raised position at ride height. This pulls the upper ball joint in towards the frame due to the arc of the arms swinging motion. (negative camber) The UCA cam bolts probably to not have enough adjustment to remove the negative camber.

If you drive the truck a lot, you will chew up tires fast because the small range of motion will push and pull the bottom of the tire in and out away from the frame an exaggerated amount.

I don't have dropped spindles, or heated coils. Its just the home made lower arms and cut coils. I'm not concerned with taking all the negative out, just in making it not tear up tires instantly. The toe is also incredibly out at this point as well. Like I said, the first thing im going to do is an actual alignment and notch the frame, from there this entire convo may be irrelivant depending on how it aligns. If it doesn't align well, or something looks unsafe, then iwill order 4" dropped arms and leave the cut coils in it.

 

[bygddy]

No, I did understand not to combine dropped arms and dropped spindles, I know even the dropped arms and heavily cut coil won't be ideal. But I also understand its a compromise somewhere to get were I want it to be. There's no free lunch. Lol.

 

[jfever71]

Welcome, i also have a thread if you need any ideas. Im using Michigan Metal Works Arms and I love them.

 

[e3mcgrath]

Does it say Thorbecke across the differential bracket? It looks like he modified a SD S10 3 link kit to fit a fullsize...

 

[bygddy]

Does it say Thorbecke across the differential bracket? It looks like he modified a SD S10 3 link kit to fit a fullsize...

I will go check, I do know it was a modded S10 kit tho, but I don't recall anything written on the diff bracket.

 

[bygddy]

Well after spending some more time under the truck, I think I'm goimg to go a different route then what's currently there. I have zero interest in notching the frame for tie rod clearance so how low can I get away with without having to go there? The current ride height is a measured 1.25" inches at the engine crossmember, which with as much driving as I do likely isn't going to work. I would be happy if that were 2.5-3" from pavement. Right now the damn thing is nearly tucking a 15" wheel lol, so if I got 2-3 inches back I could live with that. So given the fact that I would like to avoid notching the frame what's next? I'm fine with a stiff front end, Im fine with cutting coils, I'm fine with some unavoidable camber issues, I don't want to spend a ton, and don't mind "cheating" as long as it isn't going to get me or anyone else killed. I do want it as low as possible without having to notch....that's about it.
I will be keeping a 215/70/15 tire.
Thanks guys

 

[bygddy]

Or....do I leave the neato home made lower arms, and just replace my heavily cut coils? And just cut to where I want to be leaving enough room for tie rod clearance without notching... cheapest, easiest, assuming they are made well. Just as safe as anything else.... make sense?

 

[98nightmare]

If you swap out the lower arms you'll probably be right where you wanna be, without notching for tie rods.. should give a close to two inches of lift back.
make sure tie rod adjusting bolts are turned downwards so they don't snag the frame..

 

[bygddy]

If you swap out the lower arms you'll probably be right where you wanna be, without notching for tie rods.. should give a close to two inches of lift back.
make sure tie rod adjusting bolts are turned downwards so they don't snag the frame..

Hmm, didn't think of that. The PO says these are about a 4" drop with these arms, so if I bought 2" lowering arms, that should give me back my 2", but then of course these coils won't likely work, as they are cut a bunch, like 2.5 coils a bunch lol. So given the spring pockets are lower in the djm arms then what I'm currently running I bet really bad things would happen if I kept them. I could just stop being a Pansy and notch the thing, buy shorter shocks and drive it. How big a notch is needed if that's what I do? Right now the sleeve is about .25" off the frame...how much movement do I need to have room for? Again, I'm super aware this is a 5 page thread of me being stupid and cheap so I appreciate the patients. Oh and my buddy is going to finish the rear, tank, compressor etc etc for $400....so I can drag the ass around lol....

 

[bygddy]

So this (me) got dumb fast lol, will be ordering djm spindles, will grab stock lower arms at the wrecker, leave my coils alone. From all the measumemts I can find online it looks like I'm at a 8-9 drop up front currently, 4 from the home made arms, 4 from the coils. Stock lca with my current coils should put me 6ish drop, won't have to notch for tie rods, will be able to align it, and with 215/70/15 should still be stupid low and hopefully tuck the tire an 1" or so....