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DRAGGIN95

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I have had egr problem's with tbi's in the past also, sometime's changing the egr sol. and or the egr valve fixes the problem, but on 2 tbi truck's I have owned a new egr and egr sol. didn't fix anything, both of them had the egr passage blocked from carbon inside the intake, the only way I fixed them was to remove the intake and literaly chisel the carbon out to reopen the passage. Hopefully your's will be an easy fix, but I thought I would offer my first hand experience, also like mentioned above only use an ac delco egr valve, the aftermarket ones are crap, I removed multiple aftermarket ones for problem's they were causing, and once the valve was changed they were fine.
 

Swims350

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the check engine light should come on if the egr is missing.

That's what everyone told me.


Mines gone too. I made a plate to put under mine since it was just sheet metal. You can buy the plates cheap but a local replacement egr here is only $50.

Don't forget your vac. lines they could be the problem.
 

DRAGGIN95

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Yeah those original hard plastic lines are real pieces of ****, that's the first thing I change when I buy a tbi truck/suv. I alway's just replace them with regular rubber vac. hose.
 

rico47635

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I am confused on what role the vacuum plays in the valve. Does the vacuum open or close the valve? I am thinking it closes the valve because it should be open when starting a cold engine, right? Isn't the purpose of the EGR system to recycle some of the exhaust when the engine is cold to help cut down on the emissions? If so, then the valve should be open when the vehicle first starts up and then closed when the vehicle has run for so long. I see what you are saying about using a vacuum pump to check the valve itself, but what about the solenoid? Would a way of checking out the solenoid be to unhook the vacuum line from the valve after the truck warms up to see if vacuum is present?

Maybe I have this backwards. Maybe the valve is supposed to be closed when the engine is cold and open when the engine is at operating temperature. If the thing is only part of the emission system, then why should I be worred about it at all, other than the annoyance of having the SES light on? Whew! I am really confused now. LOL!
 
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Aloicious

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The EGR should never be operational at idle, cold or warm. if the valve is stuck open during idle it can cause problems and throw codes. when mine got stuck open I could barely keep the truck running below ~1500 RPM.

its a often misunderstood little gadget. these other guys will be more helpful on the parts and pieces of your EGR setup as I'm more familiar with the 96+ setups. but here's a quick EGR 101 to help explain how it works and what its used for.

Basically once the EGR is at operating temp and certain conditions are met (no idle, no WOT, basically a stable driving condition like freeway cruizing), then the EGR opens and recirculates exhaust gasses into the intake manifold. Since the exhaust gas is basically inert (containing little to no oxygen for use in the combustion reaction), then this unusable gas basically takes up space within the cylinder/combustion chamber and reduces the amount of oxygen that can be drawn in.

if we assume that the engine is running perfectly and the combustion is fully stoichiometric, then when the EGR is operating are displacing oxygen out of the combustion chamber, then that makes the reaction rich (i.e. the oxygen is the limiting reagent instead of the fuel). this little bit of richness cools down the combustion reaction (rich combustion = cooler, lean combustion = hotter), this cooled combustion reaction produces less oxides of nitrogen (NOx) which is the EGRs main purpose as an emissions device.

in addition to being an emissions device, it also has some side effects, some good, some bad. the good is that since the EGR can effectively reduce the cylinder displacement while keeping compression, some of the more sophisticated EGR setups can adjust and introduce less fuel at the same time (but still keeping it on the rich side of the reaction for emissions), this can produce better fuel efficency while it is activated. the bad is that the exhaust gasses are dirty. and if you've ever opened up and looked in the intake manifold of a vehicle that has run EGR, it is nasty in there (though the EGR is really only half the cause of the intake nastyness, the other half comes from the PCV). and if it malfunctions, it can cause all sorts of gremlins. the main one I've seen is that it makes the truck run horrible at idle and just off idle, but can also cause a whole host of problems.

so in the end, if its causing you problems, you really either need to fix it, or completely remove it because the problems will just get worse if you just leave it.

sorry for the long post, hope it helps clear up its function a little bit
 

Mike

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Get some new quality plugs in there if you havent yet.
 

rico47635

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The EGR valve was bad. I do not have a vacuum pump so I had him take the old one off and suck on the line. The thing wouldn't create the suction, let alone hold it. Got a new valve that holds vacuum and he's installing it as I type. He said the port was a little carboned up, but not a lot. Gonna spray some cleaner into it to get it cleaned up. So, this means that on top of a malfunctioning EGR valve, the truck also had a slight vacuum leak.

I think that I will go ahead and replace the spark plugs next. With all the vacuum leaks and malfunctioning this and that, I am sure that what's been going on in the cylinders hasn't been conducive to desirable combustion. I am pretty much tapped out for a couple of weeks, but I am going to get a good set of 100,000 miles plugs the first chance I get.

I am hoping that one benefit from these repairs is better fuel economy. I've only been getting 13.5mpg. I am not expecting miracles from a 4x4 with a three inch lift and 31s, but it should be getting better than 13.5mpg.
 

GMCTRUCKS

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You wrote that you might be pulling a camper with the truck if so install a trans cooler just to be safe.
 
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