That is true, I just didn't want to wait until I get my rear line since that won't be for a while. Oh well
thanks for the help Paul haha
Braided brake lines
- Thread starter kamokevin
- Start date
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That is true, I just didn't want to wait until I get my rear line since that won't be for a while. Oh well
thanks for the help Paul haha
I guess you could always bleed the back also when you change the front lines. Then you have good fluid an will just need a little bleeding when you get to changing the back line....
Alright I've got a rather puzzling question for you guys.
I just got done installing both the front lines and bleeding each corner twice (using the method where one pushes the pedal and the other controls the bleeder valve). We did about ten reps of this on each side. Once we finished the left rear, I had great stiff pedal feel (got lots of air from that corner) then we moved on to the right rear and after about the fifth rep the pedal became much harder to push down and the pedal became noticeably less stiff from then on.
Why do you guys think that is? Is there more air in the rear lines? Should I drive it around a bit and try to get more air to surface then bleed it again?
I just got done installing both the front lines and bleeding each corner twice (using the method where one pushes the pedal and the other controls the bleeder valve). We did about ten reps of this on each side. Once we finished the left rear, I had great stiff pedal feel (got lots of air from that corner) then we moved on to the right rear and after about the fifth rep the pedal became much harder to push down and the pedal became noticeably less stiff from then on.
Why do you guys think that is? Is there more air in the rear lines? Should I drive it around a bit and try to get more air to surface then bleed it again?
WFO4X4
Banned
what was your total cose? cause the ones from ORD were $120 shipped for all three lines
WFO4X4
Banned
you have to bleed all four lines. start at pass rear, then driver rear, the pass front then driver front. and you MAY have gotten air in the abs valve body and if that is the case you'll likely need a tech II or some sort of scan tool to bleed the ABS
They were $90 shipped
Ya I bled all 4 lines twice, but not in that order. I'm going to bleed them again later in that order and see if it helps. Where would I take it to get the ABS bled? I have a handheld scanner but I don't think it has that capability.
Try making the abs cycle before you take it somewhere. Making the abs cycle will usually push the air out of it.
Of course if you guys would listen an get a good bleeder like I keep saying this wouldn't be an issue......
Of course if you guys would listen an get a good bleeder like I keep saying this wouldn't be an issue......
WFO4X4
Banned
alright bucket mouth..... how about you send me the tool and let me use it before i spend $80 for a piece of plastic.....Try making the abs cycle before you take it somewhere. Making the abs cycle will usually push the air out of it.
Of course if you guys would listen an get a good bleeder like I keep saying this wouldn't be an issue......
It's $67 on summit racing. By the time you pay for shipping both ways you would have paid for half of it.
Besides if you just borrow mine what will you do next time....
Besides if you just borrow mine what will you do next time....
