Need opinion on brake drum quality

[rebelyell]

Raybestos is the current GM/ACDelco supplier for brake drums and rotors, so the GM/ACDelco should be Raybestos in a different box.

That said, I've had issues with pretty much everything being warped out of the box these days. No matter what you buy, I would take them to a mechanic with a brake lathe and have them checked (and turned if necessary) before installation.

Thanks, didn't know Raybestos is current GM/ACDelco supplier.
Strongly agree to first run new drums on a lathe; same for rotors too (unless installer has another foolproof method to check runout).

 

[Schurkey]

I get a slight squealing squeaky lope noise at a specific rotational point from the driver drum area as far as I can tell . It’s only when I’m 2-3mph in a parking lot or mostly faintly heard when making a turn which is weird .


The noise is only at a certain repetitive rotational point when the wheel is turning. So I assumed a warp area rubbing on new shoes .

Yeah, out-of-round brake drum(s) is a good possibility.

The e- brake was adjusted correctly the drum slips on with just enough contact to know it’s not loose or to hard to fit over the shoes .
My e- brake catches a lot sooner then before and it releases just fine I tested that as well with suspension off ground.

When the park brake is released, do all four rear shoes rest solidly on the anchor pin at the top of the brake assembly? If not, FIX THAT FIRST. The park brake cable is adjusted too tightly, and the service brake not adjusted tightly enough.

I didn’t take to much notice with contact point wear !
I will surely relook this over and consider the new backing plates .

SOME contact point wear is not the end of the world. There can be a point where the wear really does interfere with brake operation.

The worn metal can be replaced with weld filler, then ground flat again. You could dimple it a little like the unworn part of the contact pad, to hold some lube. MIG recommended, but TIG can work, too. Gotta be careful to not heat the backing plate so much that it would warp.

I am planning on little shops rear disc swap

Oh, HELL NO.

Those bottom-feeder disc brake conversions are bad enough when replacing the 254mm (10") brakes, they're probably worse than what you have now.

If you just have to have rear discs, at least get GOOD rear discs, that have been appropriately sized, properly engineered, and with a functional park brake.

 

[fisher]

Agree even oem parts are gimmicky anymore I believe it I see it.
Hence the fairness in asking if it really matters what we pay$$ for a Brake Drum that basically only spins and only real necessary level of quality would be the fact if it’s machined properly ? With correct thickness ? or not etc.. that alone doesn’t always justify paying a huge price gap from ac delco to fvp parts for example if they’ or certain parts are relatively made the Same in the end .
Sometimes they are, but mostly they aren’t . I fully understand that cheap is cheap but these days ac delco isn’t what is used to be either …also as agreed.
I never cheap out on my trucks. I blow more unnecessary money than I outta usually. But drums was a necessary inquiry I felt like at least I may find feedback on limitations/faults or even positive notes from experience with one brand to the next.

No matter what you buy, I would take them to a mechanic with a brake lathe and have them checked (and turned if necessary) before installation.

Good advise from df2x4. I did the drum brakes on my truck last year; new ACDelco drums from Rockauto, shoes, hardware, cylinders, and brake fluid flush. I do every job according to the service manual, so the installation and bleeding procedures were done correctly. Long story short is that the brakes pulsated, squeeked, and drum brakes would lock up after getting warm. The problem was the new drums were very warped. Pulled the drums off and had the local NAPA store turn the new drums. Put it all back together and my brakes are good as new.