All around budget sound setup

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flyboy1294

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If you drill a hole in the firewall next to the existing hole (behind the top of the pedals) you can run your power wire through there and then down the the drivers side of the truck underneath the sill plates.

Is the firewall single or double layered in that spot?

I have my speaker wires ran under the kick panels and what not on both sides. Would the power wire cause interference with them? I could run my RCA cables on the right side no problem, but the speaker wires go down both sides.
 
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flyboy1294

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Sound Deadener consisted of:
Peel & Seal (Lowe's) ~$60+
Yoga mat x2 (Target) Closed Cell Foam $34
Less than $100 spent so far and it made an amazing difference on sound resonance.

That's really affordable... next time I take my seats out I will get some of that peel and seal and lay it down on the floor. The only thing I don't think I could do is sound dampen the rear plastic. It was all I could manage to get the door panels off, the rear panels would kill me.
 

flyboy1294

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Oh yeah, what about the band pass filters? I asked earlier but noone chimed in.

The bass blockers I was going to get for the 6.5 speakers were 150hz. So should I do a highpass filter on the components for 150hz, then a high pass of 35hz on the sub and a lowpass of 150hz on the sub?
 

sewlow

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O.K., It took a bit, but I found the pix of my tweeter placement. The pic quality is not the best. Taken with an iphone 3G with the crappy camera, & lit up with a pen light. One in each hand.

The first one shows the general idea of where they are. With the windows closed, they are really easy to miss. Most people don't see 'em until they are in the truck.

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This pic shows how close it is to the outside of the panel. If you look close, you can see my pencil marks, as well as how tight the fit is.

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This pic shows how close the speaker is to the inside of the panel. The pencil marks on the top of the door panel, where it meets the mirror access cover were drawn so that once I removed the cover, I could see where it fit to the door, & how much clearance I had underneath it.

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This last picture shows how high I had to place the speaker in order to clear the long clip on the backside of the mirror cover. The center line under the speaker is not the center of the speaker. It is the center from outside edge of cover to the inside edge of it, measured to the outside of the corner. And it also shows the crazy glue that dripped. Because of the damn glue drips, I eventually dyed the mirror covers black, & that makes everything kinda disappear. Plus it matches up with the black on the gauge surround.

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I did have to drill a hole for the speaker magnet, in order for the speaker to fit flush. It does stick out a little off the plastic, on the inside edge by the dash, but only about the thickness of a finger nail. When/if you do this, run a bit of extra speaker wire to the tweets & some male/female spade connector about 8" after the speaker. This is so that if you ever have to remove or replace the speaker, or to access the mirror, you don't have to remove the whole door panel to disconnect the speaker from the crossover inside the door, or wherever else you may have mounted that. That's one I learned as soon as I had to do some work on the door panel after all this was done, 6 months later. PITA without that extra length of wire & no quick connectors.
Hope this helps. AL.D.
 

flyboy1294

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O.K., It took a bit, but I found the pix of my tweeter placement. The pic quality is not the best. Taken with an iphone 3G with the crappy camera, & lit up with a pen light. One in each hand.

Thanks man! I was hoping you'd find some pics. Super clean, that looks great. I'm in the process of doing mine the same way. I have an advantage though because my speakers come with special cups to mount them flush. Hopefully I can pull it off. I will check back in later with my results.
 

flyboy1294

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Finished the speakers. I'm happy how it came out.

Passenger door panel off.
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Stock speaker
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Done, all wires hidden.
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Wire I ran for the tweeters.
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Marked holes to drill on mirror access panel
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Cup mounted with long bolts and nuts to reinforce.
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Done.
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Installed:
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I'm very happy with it so far. Very low profile and clean. I tested both of the crossover input wires and am getting about 4.2 ohms, so all is well with the wiring.

I'm waiting on my amp to come now.

Here is the beginning of my amp rack:
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.

Stay tuned.
 

T DOG

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Is the firewall single or double layered in that spot?

I have my speaker wires ran under the kick panels and what not on both sides. Would the power wire cause interference with them? I could run my RCA cables on the right side no problem, but the speaker wires go down both sides.

You just want to run the power and the RCA's as far apart as possible. The firewall is single layer in that area. Nice progress BTW.
 

flyboy1294

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You just want to run the power and the RCA's as far apart as possible. The firewall is single layer in that area. Nice progress BTW.

Ah I see. I will go see if I can find the area you are talking about.

Thank you! I am currently getting a rough cut out of my amp rack. When the amp actually gets here I will carpet it.
 

flyboy1294

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Also, what is the Q-tune setting on my amplifier? I am not familiar with the term.

T-Dog, what would you recommend setting my highpass filters on my 6.5's and my lowpass on my sub to? I am in the dark about frequency response. I found an example of the fronts being 80hz+ and the subwoofer being 35-80hz, but I do not know how this would work in the real world.
 
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T DOG

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^^^ that set-up sounds about right. You will just have to adjust everything to your liking once everything is installed.
 
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