96 1500 won't start after repairs

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Siggertx

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Hello everyone, first post here. Looks like there is some pretty in depth information on this forum along with some knowledgeable members so I figured I'd see if someone can help me pin point this issue. This will be a long read but I'm going to try and give as much info as possible.

The truck is a 96 1500 5.7, purchased two days ago in a semi-running condition. Gal I got it from had been taken by a mechanic and she bought a new car. The truck would start right up if you put a little gas in the TB, idled pretty good, and would do 70mph if you really eased into it. If you gave it too much throttle it would stumble and die. One of the repairs that had been made was a replacement fuel pump that seemed very noisy to me. Before I tore into the truck I tested the pressure: 15psi with key on, 50psi at crank and run. Trouble codes show banks 1 and 2 too lean.

I noted that the lower intake was leaking coolant, no coolant in oil or oil in radiator. Plugs had been changed, white ash color (figured coolant perhaps). I proceeded to tear down the intake, replaced gaskets and bolts (corroded), cleaned everything up real good. Also had to replace the distributor due to the "mechanic" breaking the ears on the original installing new cap.

Put engine on cylinder 1 TDC, and I adjusted valve lash using this method: Adjust intake 1, 2, 5, 7, and exhaust 1, 3, 4, 8. Rotate the crank 360 degrees (putting #6 on tdc) and adjust intake 3, 4, 6, 8, and exhaust 2, 5, 6, 7. What I do is with the rocker obviously loose, I spin the pushrod as I tighten the rocker nut. When zero lash occurs, the pushrod will momentarily stop spinning. I then tighten the rocker nut an additional 1/2 turn.

After reassembly the truck won't start, cranks good but no fire. I verified timing and order, checked compression on all 8, all plugs are sparking. Tried a little gas in the TB, eather shot on the filter. I didn't have access to the fuel pressure gage last night but by pressing in the valve it appears to be operating in the same condition. I'm picking up a new AC Delco pump this afternoon, but I don't expect it to fully cure this problem as it would run with the old pump. I've been over this think 10 times checking electrical plugs and hoses (all were labeled during process). Hasn't thrown a code yet. I think that's pretty much it. I'm stumped here, anyone have any thoughts to share? I'd sure appreciate the help!
 

magimerlin

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With a vortec motor if the timing isn't spot on it will not start... how did you check timing? And check your coolant temp sensor for the computer... make sure it's reading correctly as well. If not, it can cause a no start in a vortec too.

And why did you adjust the lash? Where the heads off? They have hydrolic lifter, not like the old solid lifters... it's very very rare to have to adjust with hydrolic other then if the rocker stems where removed or the heads where removed.

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Siggertx

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Timing checked with my light, I had to mark a reference higher up because I can't see the darn tab with the AC mounted. I will recheck that though because I can move the distributor several degrees either direction. I replaced the coolant sensor by the thermostat because the plug was damaged, not sure how to test it. Valve lash just because. Engine has 200k on it, signs of blowby. Figured I'd do it while I had the covers off and motor on TDC. None of them were off by much as it turned out.
 

tinfoil_hat

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Could be the distributor timing. Since you had the dizzy out with the LIM it will need to be timed with a special scan tool. The timing light won't do it.

The fuel pumps are normally noisy. No idea why. Switching to the ACDelco unit is a good idea, though. Try to stick with all ACDelco electrical parts. Especially with ignition components and sensors.

50psi is a tad low on the fuel pressure. I believe it should be 60. Another common problem is the fuel spider. Not a cheap part but it can be tested with the upper intake off.

I hope you thoroughly flushed the cooling system and filled with all new coolant. DexCool is notoriously temperamental. Even if it had something else in it when you bought it, chances are good it has Dex sludge in there.
 

Siggertx

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I just tried to recheck the timing and now I'm showing very intermittent signal from the coil. I pulled the AC to have a better view of the timing notch, put cylinder 1 TDC, popped the cap and rotor and aligned it. Then I tried hooking the timing light up just to see where it's hitting and it wasn't lighting up. Put it on the coil wire and it blinks maybe once every other revolution. Cleaned battery terminals, same thing. Put the light on my wife's 4.3 vortec and it's functioning fine. At this point the only things that are unplugged are the leads to the AC. WTH?
 

Fuzzy

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Just to cover your bases on timing, you are using the second mark on the balancer in relation to the tab on the block right?
 

Siggertx

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My 4.3 has two lines on the balancer, but I'm fairly certain my 5.7 only has one. I'll check that!!!
 

SAATR

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You did reattach all the engine grounds, right? There are two that I can think of that have to be pulled for the LIM gasket, and they should be on the stud for the Tstat housing and on the bellhousing stud that attaches the trans dipstick and rear engine harness bracket. Weird electrical malfunctions after a repair like this are usually bad connections or grounds, or rarely a partially broken wire that came apart when the harness was disturbed.

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Siggertx

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Grounds checked and rechecked. I had a connector loose on the ICM, must have not gotten it in all the way when I was searching this morning so now I have spark again. I took off the TB, used a mirror and light to check the fuel regulator for leaks when cranking and saw none. I did notice that after I stop cranking my fuel pressure is dropping to nearly 0. Check valve in the pump maybe? I'm about to install that Delco unit and retest. Thanks to all who are pitching in here, I appreciate it
 

Siggertx

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Ok, new fuel pump installed. I don't have a gage to test pressure now but it is noticeably higher at the rail. Also,10 seconds or so after cranking it is still strong whereas the old pump had almost nothing. Bonus this pump is much quieter. Unfortunately the truck still won't start. Still no codes either. I'm stumped.
 
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