And for the last and most entertaining part.... wiring.
Now if you're going to go the dodge auto route, you've got 2 options. The 47RH, and the 47RE. Most avoid the 47RE because it's electronically controlled. The 47RH only uses electronics to shift, so it's much simpler and can be run off switches or the $300 Compushift controller (which has a speedo output that matches the GM signal iirc)
The issue becomes, the 47RH was a 2 year option (94-95) and the 47RE was produced from 96+. So it's a lot easier and in most cases cheaper to get your hands on an RE rather than a RH.
Only thing, is the 47Re appears a little more complicated to set up. Your options are the $800+ Firepunk Anteater controller, or trying to figure out the Dodge PCM.
As far as the route i took.... well.
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First off, it may look overwhelming but really it's not too bad. I'm working with a 96 Harness which i purchased along with my transmission from the guys at Tex Star Automotive Services. Can't say enough good things about them. They've helped me identify what wires in this harness are what.
They're currently creating DIY wiring diagrams for a variety of years, so you can merge the PCM of ether a 12V, 24V, or common rail into whatever swap you're doing. These diagrams from my understanding will be included with each engine/transmission they sell.
So this is what you start with:
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Complete harness from the batteries, to the junction box, to the grid harness, everything. Basically the easiest way to do it is to lay everything out, figure out what goes where, and start putting it into the truck and hooking everything up.
Almost everything will plug in. For what i didn't use... i cut, heat shrinked the ends, wrapped and tucked it back into the loom. If you've got a bunch of time, you can unwrap, trace back, and eliminate every single wire you don't need. Personally i feel like that's the point of no return, because if you miss something or mess up you can completely ruin the harness. There aren't too many wires, i felt like it was easiest to wrap them back up and what not.
(I'll include an engine bay picture when i'm done)
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Basically i cut out my alternator harness, and clipped the 3 main plugs that would plug into the junction box. That leaves you with a big chunk of wires. Near the PCM.
Now this probably gives some of you a headache. Don't let it. You only need a handful of these wires.
The other area you need to keep an eye on is the front section of wires up by the grid heater near the drivers side front of the harness
The thicker red/black wire is the FSS supply. I removed that, pulled it out of the loom all the way back to the main section of the harness. Then ran it over to the junction box where i spliced it into the old power wire for the 6.5 glow plug system.
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Then from the area of the 3 plugs you need a handful of wires.
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Thicker Brown: Signal when starter is turning (lets FSS know to kick on)
Thicker Red: Constant 12V (fused)
Red (14 gauge or so): 12 in run only (I used fuse tap into radio)
Light Green/Black: Ignition 12V
Black/Tan: Ground
White/Pink: Ground when braking (use 5 pin relay)
Then if you want a working OBDII: set aside
12V ignition, 2 grounds, Dark green & pink/dark blue wires (wrapped together in a swirl) are the send and receive for OBDII.
Then for the grids i simplified it. I cut the 2 part controller in half and ran the grids off one.
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I did away with the other two wires and used these two wires to run the grids. One thick wire from the harness to the grids, the other cable to battery (around 6/8 gauge).
Basically one of these little wires is a constant 12V ignition and the orange/black is a ground signal from the PCM. So i ran a fused wire from the dark blue wire on the 6.5 harness (glow plug light) to the switch side of the grid heater relay to run the grid heater light as if it were factory only coming on when the grid heaters are on.
That's pretty much it, just plugging everything in and adding those wires. Basically i'm only running one of the two grid heater power wires, but it works. And I've tested it, it still gets pretty hot. I can always find another grid heater controller and hook it back up to run both with two 6 gauge battery wires, but honestly, it's never going to sit outside so i figure this will be more than fine for a spring/summer/fall truck.
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Overall, the only thing i don't like, is that both the starter, and the grid heaters pull off the left battery. Likely will wear out that left drivers side battery a lot quicker.
That said, i have driven the truck around a little bit. It runs great, very strong. It's pretty fun to drive.
All i have left to do is to hook up the Dakota digital SG5 speedometer calibrator to get the speedometer working, add trans/EGT and boost gauges, and then start the paint and body work.