So for those of you who haven't heard, I'm starting a new project on a truck I've wanted to restore for years, a 93 C3500 crew cab that's been in my family for close to 20 years... I got this truck about 2 years ago, daily drove it for just over a year until transmission issues forced me to park it. Since then I've constantly debated what to do with this truck, knowing I want to keep it long term, whereas my other crew cab is just my daily driver for the time being. Here are a couple pictures of how its transformed since I've owned it. The truck had a all black front end which replaced the factory chrome end years before I had it. I threw some LED signals, tow mirrors, and my extra set of wheels on it, got the front end aligned and drove it. Later I replaced the rusty front bumper with an extra chrome bumper and a junkyard chrome grill. I sold the XD wheels, and threw some PY0's on. Since the 350 wasn't really cutting it in my red 94 crew cab, I pulled the running 6.5 from this truck, and dropped in the other truck. Knowing I had intentions to keep this truck long term, I spent quite a few months debating what I wanted to do with it. I like the 6.5, however eventually decided to use this opportunity to upgrade the engine to a longer lasting, more durable power plant. I could build a brand new 6.5 for this truck, but the costs push upwards of $3-4k. So I decided to go a different route, by picking up this good running p-pump 12 valve Cummins out of a 95 Dodge. Now I'm not 100% certain on everything yet, however I'm likely going to stick with the GM 4L80E transmission. I wont be sled pulling, drag racing, or towing 20k with this truck, so I'm confident the 4L80E will hold up. I will probably elect to run a later style 4L80E with an aftermarket controller. Although the truck could run off the factory TCM, (being a factory DB2 truck) I feel the later style trans with the upgraded internal wiring harness is far less problematic, and the aftermarket controller will allow for tunability with the lower revving 12 valve. Now although it will be powered by a Cummins Engine, I want to keep this truck as close to factory as possible. The truck will be repainted in its factory white paint, the factory burgundy cloth interior which is in great shape will not change at all. The factory suspension will be serviced, however not modified. I plan on running no side moldings, but do plan on keeping the factory era 3500 and Silverado badges. Also plan on running he factory amber cab marker and corner lenses with clear headlights for a factoryish look. Will probably use the chrome smoothie bumper and 94+ grille from my other truck. I also want to find one of the remanufactured "Chevrolet" tailgate badges, which is something this truck came with from the factory. Despite wanting to keep a factory look, I am considering a dually conversion. I've always loved the look of the dually trucks and have always wanted one. With the 12 valve under the hood, it just works.. If I do go this route, this will be the wheel combination I go with. 16" aluminum Alcoa's with factory GM center caps..... Now I need a new bed regardless, so if I elect against the dually route, and keep it a SRW truck, i'll likely just run an aftermarket 16x8, or 16x10 wheel similar to pro comp soft 8's with factory center caps. Overall, this will definitely be a slow build as I plan to completely restore the truck in every manner. Here are the plans aside from the possibility of a dually conversion. Plans for Engine: 95 P-Pump 12 Valve - ARP Head Studs - 4K Governor Springs - Valve Springs - HE351 Turbo - Fass or Air Dog Lift Pump - First Gen Motor Mounts (Will try them before purchasing conversion mounts) - Factory Dodge Radiator/Intercooler - Possibly new injectors down the road - Rebuilt 4l80e Trans, may upgrade to newer style plug as previously mentioned. Plans for Body/Chassis (aside from possible dually conversion) - Repair all rust - LED Turn Signals/Tail Lights - Keep all amber lenses to resemble factory appearance. - Stainless steel brake lines - New Fuel Lines - New gas tank/fuel sender. (stole the factory tank when swapping my red truck) - Complete undercoating - Spray in bed liner - New Paint Job (factory GM Olympic White) I'll try to keep this updated, like I said It will not be a quick build by any stretch. I have a good deal lined up on the paint job, so i want to get that done while i can get a good deal on it. The first step will be to get the rust repaired, and the frame undercoated, so I can have the cab painted. Then I'll move forward from there.