1993 Chevrolet C3500 Crew Cab Restoration/Cummins Build

[rolla711]

Happy for ya brotha

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[JScott23]

Ordered a few more things.

- Downpipe (4")
- Flexplate/Torque Converter/Starter Bolts
- AC Fluid Line

Went ahead and ordered the 94-02 diamond eye downpipe. Had been eying the first gen (89-93) style downpipe that mounts directly to the turbo which is what most use that for their swaps.

The 94-02 downpipe uses a 45 degree angle and a ball socket flange and should do a better job of getting the downpipe down past the firewall while staying away from the heater hoses.

It was $73 shipped so we'll see how it goes. Worst case scenario i have to modify it. I'm almost certain the Diamond Eye first gen would've been touching the heater hoses.

 

[rolla711]

Ordered a few more things.

- Downpipe (4")
- Flexplate/Torque Converter/Starter Bolts
- AC Fluid Line

Went ahead and ordered the 94-02 diamond eye downpipe. Had been eying the first gen (89-93) style downpipe that mounts directly to the turbo which is what most use that for their swaps.

The 94-02 downpipe uses a 45 degree angle and a ball socket flange and should do a better job of getting the downpipe down past the firewall while staying away from the heater hoses.

It was $73 shipped so we'll see how it goes. Worst case scenario i have to modify it. I'm almost certain the Diamond Eye first gen would've been touching the heater hoses.

Can’t wait to see it mounted.


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[JScott23]

So ended up getting the downpipe in, didn't fit like i'd hoped, or at least would've needed a lot of modification to work. Went ahead and ordered the first gen downpipe pipe. Fit perfectly. So let this be a lesson to anyone reading, use the FIRST GEN 89-93 downpipe. It is a little close to the heater hoses but it's the better option of the two. I initially tried the 94-02 downpipe because it was about half the price but it doesn't work.

Ended up getting the transmission and some goodies in from Tex-Star Automotive. About $800 shipped for a good used 47RE (approx. 20k on rebuild), driveshaft, single disc converter, intake tube, fan shroud, and flexplate and some other little things.

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Went back and forth on a color scheme, ended up deciding polished valve covers and gloss black would look best. Keeps it factory looking.

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The factory Dodge fan shroud had to be trimmed a little bit, but it fit pretty well. The factory intake tube more-so points towards the back corner. If i removed the overfill canister a BHAF filter would fit perfect. However since i want to keep that canister in place, i'll probably just use a 10"x6" Spectre Filter. I'd like mess around and make a custom air box that looks somewhat factory. Worst case scenario i add a filter wrap and build a heat shield.

Now since my 94 will be swapped to a short bed at some point this year, i yanked the rust free bed off before winter and replaced it with a "okay" condition red 8 ft bed a buddy had. That will buy my time until i can swap it to the K2500 short bed frame.

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Found the 94 already had a gooseneck mount which appears to be homemade, but is pretty well made. So I'll probably paint it and use it for this truck.

I went and looked at the B&W Turnover specs and it's made out of 1/4 plate. This is 3/8 plate and is welded very well. I'll probably have a welding shop weld and brace some 3/8 angle iron to this so i can bolt Curt's version of a turnover ball hitch on there and have it flush with the bottom of the bed to work with the 2" body lift. That way it's 100% independent of the bed and very securely mounted to the frame.

I've looked at B&W's turnover ball mount, and not that it's poorly made, but i think a combination of what i have and some professional welding can give me a better quality hitch that fits the truck with the 2" body lift at a cheaper price than the B&W. The goal is to have a 2" hole in the bed and nothing more. 95% of the time I'll have the ball flipped over and covered. I don't want a giant hole or any bumps in the bed affecting my ability to haul cargo without the gooseneck trailer.

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Now, Since the truck has a 2" body lift, i'm probably going to do something custom on the rear bumper so it doesn't look like it has a body lift or have a gap between the hitch and the bumper. This is a bumper i made way back for my old 97 extended cab. I'd like to make something along these lines mimicking a DMI Style rear bumper. Something to eliminate the gap between the hitch/bumper and give the truck a sturdy rear bumper. I will probably use flat sheet instead of diamond plate, but nonetheless.

Also plan to have a spray in bedliner (thinking Line-X) done. Going to be a lot easier than having the inside of the bed painted white, and will be a nice addition for a truck that's going to get worked.

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Overall things are coming together.

Still have a lot to do. Need to order the transmission coolers/lines and button up some odds and ends but it's getting really close. Once it's all running and operational i'll put the gooseneck hitch in and have the truck painted then the bed liner put in last. Hoping to be done by end of winter.

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[rolla711]

Came a long way good sir.

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[thz71]

Looks good man! I've been following your adventures on instagram

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[JScott23]

Looks good man! I've been following your adventures on instagram

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Thanks sir, it's coming. Slowly but surely. A lot bigger project than i originally expected to be. Doesn't help that I've had some learning pains along the way. (Like buying the GM adapter only to find out it's by no means a bolt on and go type thing)

 

[JScott23]

Got some goodies installed since the last update. and a FIRST START!

EDIT: Oops didn't mean to upload this picture again

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Got everything hooked up. Bolted up the flexplate, added the fan shroud and used a round Spectre high flow diesel filter in the factory intake tube. I'd like to build a box before i start driving it, or at least a shield on the turbo side of the filter. It's on the to do list.

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Was originally going to add some color in the engine bay, but ended up leaving it with more of a simple look. Looks more factory-ish and i didn't want to make it look tacky since i didn't paint the block. That picture of the engine bay has everything hooked up and wired except the AC. Came out super clean.

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This is what i used for the solenoid. It's important to run the pull wire off a relay as otherwise it doesn't have enough power to start it. The hold wire i ran off the factory 6.5 injection pump solenoid power wire.

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Then went ahead and ran some rubber fuel lines into a bucket and started it. Just pumped the primer, and it started up with minimal cranking. It didn't idle that great until it warmed up but i'm sure that's because there's a ton of air in the lines.


Pretty much all that's left.

- Install Transmission
- Configure Shift Linkage w/ 47RE
- Install Cooler Lines
- Use the PCM out of a 96 Dodge to run transmission/grid heater.
- Have driveshaft's shortened
- Move trans Crossmember/ mount trans
- Wire speedo (Plan to use a GPS speedo sender or Dakota SGI-5)
- Set Up Cruise Control
- Wire Reverse Lights
- Exhaust

DRIVE

Then Body/Paint next.

(I'll try to get a video of it running. I have not yet installed the transmission since i don't have transmission cooler lines yet)

 

[JScott23]

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[Sampuppy1]

That is the most beautiful sound a gmt400 can make. I'm drooling.

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