Dylan1991_1500
Long Bed Owner
3.08s are just terrible for where I live, all hills here.
1991 RCLB Driver
- Thread starter Dylan1991_1500
- Start date
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Dylan1991_1500
Long Bed Owner
Minor tweak to the exhaust system this morning. I turned the muffler 90 degrees so it lies flat and turned the tailpipe the same amount to it stayed pointing down. This raised the tailpipe about 5" higher than it was which really cut down on the sound of the exhaust slapping off the pavement. Less drone in the cab too.
Justin S
Truck Hoarder
Booo more noise = more power, everyone knows that!!
Dylan1991_1500
Long Bed Owner
I would agree with you but a stock TBI does not sound very good with 3" exhaust slapping on the pavement and even worse when the converter goes into lockup with 3.08s. I have heard farts that sounded sportier.
Dylan1991_1500
Long Bed Owner
What am I looking at here? It's blocked off 1 terminal metripak connector....but for what?
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Dylan1991_1500
Long Bed Owner
So that's there for trucks that had o2 sensors in that area? I have an o2 at the base of the y-pipe under the cab.
On another note I did some more clean up. This time it was the brake system which is not looking too good in the front. The rears look new (except the about a pound of brake dust) as do all the brake lines back there so I soaked everything with brake clean and put it back together. The front, not so good. Both front hoses are cracked. The calipers work but the bleeders are just mini mounds of rust. The pads are more than 1/2 worn and squeal bad after a good drive. So the plan is front hoses, front hardlines (rusted out), new calipers and pads. That should cover it. Plan to go with Performance Friction pads since I have/had them on everything I have owned for the last 10 years...except for the Versa (none available) and the Ford 8N tractor (why bother?). I should be able to do all that for under $150. I should do rotors too. Oh the backing plates on the front were Swiss cheese and broke off by hand. No need for those though so gone they are.
On another note I did some more clean up. This time it was the brake system which is not looking too good in the front. The rears look new (except the about a pound of brake dust) as do all the brake lines back there so I soaked everything with brake clean and put it back together. The front, not so good. Both front hoses are cracked. The calipers work but the bleeders are just mini mounds of rust. The pads are more than 1/2 worn and squeal bad after a good drive. So the plan is front hoses, front hardlines (rusted out), new calipers and pads. That should cover it. Plan to go with Performance Friction pads since I have/had them on everything I have owned for the last 10 years...except for the Versa (none available) and the Ford 8N tractor (why bother?). I should be able to do all that for under $150. I should do rotors too. Oh the backing plates on the front were Swiss cheese and broke off by hand. No need for those though so gone they are.
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Dylan1991_1500
Long Bed Owner
Ok, I have a plan in action. I made the 'list' for the front and I am excited to begin.
-0368.20 Performance Friction carbon metallic pads
-1 ton calipers
-front hoses (right=BH38620/ Left= BH38621) <<Raybestos
-front rotors
-caliper bolt kit
-Banjo bolts
-all new metal lines to both wheels
-GMT800 master cylinder
-misc parts to make everything work. (ie bearing grease, cotter pins, brake line fittings, wheel seals, ect.)
And I will be cleaning and painting the parts that will stay on the truck just everything looks purty. Sucks I have to skip axle hunting for now but I think stopping weighs a little more heavily than going fast. We'll get around to the axle soon enough.
Found my tach wire off the coil too. So now I can start wiring in the autometer tach JustinS gave me back when I bought the truck.
-0368.20 Performance Friction carbon metallic pads
-1 ton calipers
-front hoses (right=BH38620/ Left= BH38621) <<Raybestos
-front rotors
-caliper bolt kit
-Banjo bolts
-all new metal lines to both wheels
-GMT800 master cylinder
-misc parts to make everything work. (ie bearing grease, cotter pins, brake line fittings, wheel seals, ect.)
And I will be cleaning and painting the parts that will stay on the truck just everything looks purty. Sucks I have to skip axle hunting for now but I think stopping weighs a little more heavily than going fast. We'll get around to the axle soon enough.
Found my tach wire off the coil too. So now I can start wiring in the autometer tach JustinS gave me back when I bought the truck.
Dylan1991_1500
Long Bed Owner
And the air filter is on. Before anyone say 'fix the rust first' I will tell you I have $10 into the entire filter assembly. The lid and base were free. The filter was 4 dollars at Carquest and the threaded rod and wing nut were 3 dollars. Paint I had laying around. It's not perfect by any means but it looks better than the OEM setup I removed and the filter is brand new so a win in the win column as far as I care. Enjoy!
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Justin S
Truck Hoarder
I bet if you dynoed it, you might have gained .2 hp
