if that picture is on the passenger side of the firewall (where I think it is) those are in the right spot, and colored like some of the HVAC blower wires, I'd bet this is the reason your blower botor isn't working.
here's a schematic of your blower and controls for a 1995:
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I would think that the orange is going from the high blower relay to the HVAC controls, and the black, is possibly the blower motor ground. that would be my guess at least.
here's something you can try, assuming that those are the only 2 wires that are cut, and your A/C 50A fuse and the HTR A/C 25A fuse are not blown, start your truck up, put your HVAC controls for the vent to blow on low (I know your other thread said the blower isn't working on any speed, but pretend that it is working), get your DMM and put it on the DC voltage setting (it is the red boxed one at ~1 o'clock on the dial, the symbol is a capitol V with a dashed line over it IIRC), and put one of the probes on one end the cut black wire, and the other probe on the other end of the cut black wire. if my thinking is correct, you should get somthing like 3-4V for low speed (I'm not sure on the actual voltage, but it should be more than 1 volt, and probably less than 5) (it may also read negative voltage, that just means the probes on the black wires are reversed, if you swap which probe is on which end of the cut black wire it'll read positive voltage)...if you do get a voltage reading like that, go leave the truck on, but turn the blower control to 'off' and re-check the voltage on that black wire. if it now reads zero voltage (or VERY low, like a few millivolts or something), then that confirms that the black wire is the blower motor ground. and you can splice both the black wire ends together.
okay, so if my assumptions are correct to this point and all that stuff happens. then when you splice the black wire together, your blower motor should start working again, but probably only on the low, med-low, and med-high settings, it probably won't work on the high setting. so turn the blower motor off (still with the truck running), and test the voltage across the orange wire (the same way you did with your DMM on the black wire, one probe on one end, the other probe on the other end), it should read zero (or very close to zero), go back and turn the vent blower to high, and re-test the orange wire again, and you should get a reading of 12-14V this time. if that is the case, then that confirms that the orange wire is the high speed relay wire, and you can splice the orange wire ends together and that should fix your blower motor.
of course this is all assuming that my original diagnosis is correct, but if you are testing the wires and come up with different readings, I may be wrong, post up anything that seems odd or if you have doubts about something before splicing the wires together.
hope that helps
