Voltage problem

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Joaquin P

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So my 1991 c1500 has been having some voltage issues. The voltage I get from the battery itself when it isn’t connected at the terminals is 12.6v
However when I turn the truck on the voltage drops to 12.3 or 12.2v
I’ve tried revving up the engine but the voltage doesn’t change
I’ve cleaned the ground that goes to the chassis and the ground that goes from the chassis to the block
I checked the voltage going from the back of the alternator to a ground and it’s getting the same 12.2/3v that the battery is reading.
Is the alternator bad?


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RawbDidIt

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So my 1991 c1500 has been having some voltage issues. The voltage I get from the battery itself when it isn’t connected at the terminals is 12.6v
However when I turn the truck on the voltage drops to 12.3 or 12.2v
I’ve tried revving up the engine but the voltage doesn’t change
I’ve cleaned the ground that goes to the chassis and the ground that goes from the chassis to the block
I checked the voltage going from the back of the alternator to a ground and it’s getting the same 12.2/3v that the battery is reading.
Is the alternator bad?


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Yes, the alternator is bad. Confirm by removing and having it tested at your local parts store.

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Joaquin P

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I went to summit and bought a brand new alternator and sure enough now I’m getting 14.6v at the alternator and 14v at the battery
Thanks [emoji120]


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RawbDidIt

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I went to summit and bought a brand new alternator and sure enough now I’m getting 14.6v at the alternator and 14v at the battery
Thanks [emoji120]


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Do a wiring upgrade and you'll get 14.4V. Makes a big difference. Glad you got it running right.

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Joaquin P

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Do a wiring upgrade and you'll get 14.4V. Makes a big difference. Glad you got it running right.

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What wiring upgrade are you referring to?
Do you mean the “big 3”? I saw this be referenced in other forums as I was doing research about this problem but didn’t look into it too much


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RawbDidIt

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What wiring upgrade are you referring to?
Do you mean the “big 3”? I saw this be referenced in other forums as I was doing research about this problem but didn’t look into it too much


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Yeah, the "big 3" refers to the main electrical connections, but there's at least 4 wires to upgrade on these trucks that will greatly improve performance, 5 if you're really into it.

1. Positive cable from alternator to main battery. If you're planning on running anything aftermarket such as fans, amps, or lights, bite the bullet and go 1/0ga here. Put a fuse in that's rated slightly above alternators rated output as close to the battery as possible (this takes the place of the fusible link you should see on the stock wire). If you're never adding aftermarket loads, 4ga is enough.

2. Add ground from negative terminal from battery to the alternator case. This will improve the ground connection for anything mounted to the engine. Match this wire gage to the wire upgrade from step 1.

3. Main power wire to distribution block. This is the wire that goes over the fan shroud. Replace this wire with 4ga.

4. Ground wire from negative terminal of battery to frame. There already a piddly one that comes stock, but in reality, it's not really enough, this is probably the main reason for your lights dimming when AC compressor turns on, or listening to music at a loud volume.

5. Optional, but highly recommended if you've gone this far already. Add another ground from negative terminal of battery to frame. There's a sweet ground in the frame located near the starter. Should already be a ground strap there from the block to the frame, don't remove that strap, just add your new ground to this location on the frame. Again, match the gage of this wire to steps 1 and 2.

Not a cheap upgrade, I forget what I didn't on it because I just overbought for the wiring I added when I put in my amps, but plan on over $100. Some people use welding wire, this is fine, but if you don't know where to get that, just grab the wire from Amazon or an audio shop. Don't use CCA (copper clad aluminum) wire. You want pure copper stranded wire. Should feel heavy enough to be a weapon. And make sure you do some cable management, especially on step 5 as that run can come into contact with the exhaust if ran improperly. A zip tie or 2 is all it takes to prevent this. Grab a good crimping tool, and good ring terminals. You'll need 1/4" for the battery side of everything, the alternator power, the main distribution block, the frame ground, and the fender ground. 3/8" for everything else if I remember correctly. You'll also want a new set of battery terminals, I recommend using the clamp style, but only to bolt your ring terminals to, but there's also some good ones that have more pointing points, check out the thread called "let's talk voltage" about 3/4 of the way down members are listing different kinds of terminals.

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Joaquin P

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I’ll definitely look into doing this when my next paycheck comes around. Thanks a lot for the write up I really appreciate it


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