Unicorn lift kit?

[rzr6-4]

Right now I am all stock suspension on my RCSB K1500. I am looking to do a small lift but so far in my reading I haven’t seen what I’m looking for. Currently have 31” tires, when they are worn I plan to go 32-33”, no interest in 35s.

To me, a suspension lift needs to provide more travel, not just clearance, so any type of spacer lift is out. The easy answer would be a key lift but the consensus seems to be that they ride rough so I will avoid that as well. Whenever I see someone ask about a 2-3” lift, everyone replies with a 4-6” lift from Rough Country or others. I have no desire to go past 3”, so those are also a no go.

It seems odd that there is no factory option for a 2-3” lift aside from the keys, am I just missing something? I’ve heard of coil conversions but I’m not sure how common those are or what they actually do for you in terms of performance. If needed I can do some fab work if there are some small adjustments that need to be made, but I don’t want to have to custom fab the entire front end.

I’m going for a casual build that I can easily daily but also has some decent flex for offroad. Not trying to build a full blown crawler but I was at full flex last weekend without even doing anything that crazy so I would like a little more.

 

[KansasOBS]

Guess you're looking for a solid axle swap. Not a lot of articulation with short arms, and CV shafts, even if you stick coils in. And pretty much everything else has a spacer of some sort, even blocks at the rear which is a spacer..

There is a reason people recommend the RC 4-6 for even a shorter lift, because you have to kinda crank the keys anyhow to get 6. My 4-6 RC lift, keys slightly cranked, with actual semi tires rides nice to me, someone in the truck recently commented how well it rode. But he is an old farmer, who's been beat around on tractors with no suspension. So I suppose that's all dependent on a persons opinions/expectancy.

Seems like a lot of hassle if you're only going to run 33's at the most.

 

[95burban]

It has to do with CV shaft angles. To get proper angles the front diff has to drop down to keep cv shaft angles correct. You can get lift keys but you will hate life and so will your truck. Get the RC lift, 33s will look great on a 4-6in lift.

If you’re wanting an off road rig I would suggest SAS on superduty axles. GM 4wd IFS is great for mall crawling and back roading.

I would suggest a jeep xj, they are stupid cheap, fun and you can build a low budget crawler on a working man’s salary.

 

[Sean Buick 76]

You need a 4” lift set at 3” by not cranking the torsion keys too tight. This is the best way to get an honest 3” of lift without ruining the ride or adding extra wear to to front end parts.

 

[rzr6-4]

You need a 4” lift set at 3” by not cranking the torsion keys too tight. This is the best way to get an honest 3” of lift without ruining the ride or adding extra wear to to front end parts.

This is an interesting idea, I will have to look into that some more.

 

[Sean Buick 76]

This is an interesting idea, I will have to look into that some more.

I run a 6” lift with the keys only tensioned up to get 4.5” of lift. It makes all the angles much better and rides nice and smooth.

 

[boy&hisdogs]

You can run 33s on reasonable wheels without any lift, I had 33s on my truck for 10 years and all I did was crank it to level.

There's no kit that will add travel to these trucks, a 4-6 lift kit will keep your suspension the same, just moved further down with brackets.

Those "key" lifts are a scam, they will ruin your front end and rattle our your fillings.

Long/mid travel IFS kits don't exist for these trucks, anything like that will have to be a from-scratch custom and probably cost more than the whole truck.

SAS is the only way people add travel to these trucks, but it's pretty overkill for 33s I think.