The Stupid Engine Questions Thread

[Aloicious]

those look like the correct seals from what I can see....you can get rollers if you want. you likely won't get any noticeable gain from them...but if you want to get them, get good ones, you don't want to get cheap valvetrain parts. you'd need self aligning rockers, I'm running a set of comp pro magnum (I think is what they are called) steel body ones. you might need to work with the valve cover baffling to get the covers to fit back on if you don't get narrow body rockers, but they're not required. you'll have a little side to side play, don't worry about that too much.

 

[Hezsus]

those look like the correct seals from what I can see....you can get rollers if you want. you likely won't get any noticeable gain from them...but if you want to get them, get good ones, you don't want to get cheap valvetrain parts. you'd need self aligning rockers, I'm running a set of comp pro magnum (I think is what they are called) steel body ones. you might need to work with the valve cover baffling to get the covers to fit back on if you don't get narrow body rockers, but they're not required. you'll have a little side to side play, don't worry about that too much.

yeah for 400$ I think i'll pass, mabye get it running good first.
any idea where I could pick up one of those adapters for pressurizing the cylender so valve dosent fall out? I also heard that using string works, just put it in with a screwdriver?

 

[Aloicious]

yeah, you can stuff something in the cylinder, but I've never been much of a fan of doing that, string can leave threads and other crap in the combustion chamber, I guess it depends on what kind of material you use. I think I made my adapter from the compression testing kit at harbor freight. I've also heard of people making them from old spark plugs and some air fittings with some cutting and welding...but I think a good parts store would have one pre-made, I'd try napa if I were you...I believe you can also use a leakdown tester too...

if you wanted to do 'upgrades' while you're in there....I'd recommend getting an adjustable pushrod and measuring the pushrod length to verify the geometry and get correct pushrods in there if that wasn't done on the rebuild...especially with an aftermarket cam in it....that would be a huge longevity upgrade (assuming it wasn't done on the rebuild)

 

[Hezsus]

yeah, you can stuff something in the cylinder, but I've never been much of a fan of doing that, string can leave threads and other crap in the combustion chamber, I guess it depends on what kind of material you use. I think I made my adapter from the compression testing kit at harbor freight. I've also heard of people making them from old spark plugs and some air fittings with some cutting and welding...but I think a good parts store would have one pre-made, I'd try napa if I were you...I believe you can also use a leakdown tester too...

if you wanted to do 'upgrades' while you're in there....I'd recommend getting an adjustable pushrod and measuring the pushrod length to verify the geometry and get correct pushrods in there if that wasn't done on the rebuild...especially with an aftermarket cam in it....that would be a huge longevity upgrade (assuming it wasn't done on the rebuild)

It does say the pushrods were replaced on the build sheet, I just ordered the seals and tools to replace them, might arrive in time for the weekend, or i'll get to it next week.
i'll update with results, thanks for all the help, it wont let me give you anymore rep. but you deserve it.
thanks man

 

[Aloicious]

replaced doesn't necissarily mean measured for proper geometry...

no prob man, let us know how it goes.

 

[Dubya]

where on the GM 305 "Vortec 5000" would you find the camshaft position sensor?

 

[Aloicious]

its in the distributor body.

 

[Hezsus]

I came across this thread

http://www.gmt400.com/forum/showthr...cam-rough-start-and-idle-is-this-normal/page3

and my throttle plate has holes in it, its been rebuilt too.

also, as an update for my previous issues my pcv valve is bad, rattles always, this explains some of the oil consumption, also for the first time ever i pulled it into the shop and theres 3 drips on the floor, looks to be the oil cooler line, right at the trans (where the metal meets rubber on the line)

still has a little miss on idle, I put in old stock cap and rotor (no change) and plugged the pcv valve which helped slightly

If no one else has holes in the throttle body plate i'll weld mine shut

valve seals are in, thats tomorrows project, i'll post results

 

[Aloicious]

did you drill the holes in the TB plate? I don't have any in the stock TB's (or aftermarket) that I've ever used with holes in them from the factory, I think some of the Fbody or Ybody ones might have though...do you have a picture of the holes?

the PCV is actually supposed to rattle some (though not excessively), unless you're running one of the fixed orifice PCV's...thats how the valve inside them open and close.

is it the trans cooler line, or the oil cooler line that is leaking? the trans cooler lines are the ones on the passenger side of the truck going to the passenger side of the radiator/cooler behind the grill...the oil cooler is the ones on the drivers side that go from the oil filter adapter up to the drivers side of the radiator...

the oil cooler lines and the adapters are known to get leaks fairly regularly (and they can leak a TON of oil out), however I've never had a problem with the trans cooler lines when I had an auto.

 

[Hezsus]

drivers sire, so oil cooler. it leaks right back to the filter, I had suspicion of it earlier but it never lost much or left a mark.

the pcv is definately bad, looks like the spring inside is broken mabye it rattles excessivly.

i'll get a pic of the tb plate, they look like factory holes.