Suggestions for a drop kit.

[Scottydc]

When I bought my truck I was told by the seller "It's been dropped the right way" Unfortunately that seller is a liar and that is not the case. It rides very stiff, bottoms out and when I test drove it, I noticed the stiffness but was more concerned with the drivetrain so I didn't look over the suspension very well.

After owning it a while I inspected it further and the first thing I noticed is the front coils have two of these on each side basically adding height to the springs.
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/417SHY6RRBL.jpg

The front lower control arms are about 3/4" off the bump stops. I assume they cut the coils and realized soon after that they took it too far. The truck sits on 20s, and there is a little bit of evidence of the tires getting into the front inner fender and you can see where someone tried to bend the lip unsuccessfully, and I assume since they put on the expanders it does not get into them anymore. I have since trimmed the inner fender lips on the front.

The rear has a set of drop shackles and although better than the front there isn't much room for travel. It also needs the carrier bearing relocated to take care of a vibration that comes in at about 60 mph.

I am to the point after seeing this mess that I just want to start over on it with new springs, spindles, notch, shocks ect.. I am not sure what all has been done to it and would just rather start from scratch with a complete kit front and back to get rid of this crap and know what I am riding on.

So what do you guys recommend on a kit for the best ride, safety and handling? What brand ect

Looking at my truck it maybe close to a 4/6 or 5/7 but I really don't know. I like the current ride height
but wouldn't mind it a little lower. I would think anything would ride better than it does now!

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[sewlow]

That looks like it's around a 4/6 drop. Maybe 4/7. Hard to tell from this angle.
Dropped spindles? Probably. And if they were causing the tires to touch the fender lips, then they would more than likely be BellTech's or Canuck MotorSport. The original style of 2" drop spindles for these trucks. They push the wheels out approx. 1"-1.25". That was done back when a 17" wheel was considered big & the extra offset was built into them in order for the wheels to clear the LCA's.
What size of front tires? A little narrower profile would help to get around the clearance prob.
My front 20's are 255/45 on a 4/7 drop & they occasionally rub. Usually over big compression dips. I have the CMS spindles. I've rolled the fenders & the rubbing is still happening, but very rarely now. I like to roll those lips rather than cut them. Lot easier on the tires!
MacGaughy's or DJM's are the later design & they don't kick the wheels out that 1"-1.25"
For those front springs, I'd just get a set of stockers & cut one coil. 1 coil = 2" of drop. Increases the spring rate. Makes them a bit more stiff, but certainly not like it is with those stupid spring jacks/helper things.
Aftermarket drop springs mimic the stock ride characteristics. Soft & mooshy. Not very performance oriented & besides, with that soft ride, the front end will compress through it's travel much easier, causing the fender rub issues.
When you have your wheels off, get into the wheel wells & grind off level with the nuts all those bolt ends poking through into there from the engine compartment.
Get some good shocks. Short of spending $1500.00 on some QA1's, the ones I like & have found to be the best as far as handling performance are the BellTech Street Performers. The shock is much more substantial in the size of the shaft & body, along with greater improvement in both compression & rebound over all of the others I've tried. A firmer ride than other 'short' shocks. Some people say too firm, but it's the ride I prefer.
For the rear, the flip kit/notches are pretty well all the same. Deciding factor would be price.
To get some more drop, use some drop shackles set at the 1" position. These trucks need a 3" difference between front>rear to ride level. With that though, you will probably have to run some pinion wedges. IIRC, I used a 1.5* wedge. Fat part of the wedge to the front. You may have to extend the center pin that goes through the springs. I just bought some longer gr.8 bolts & cranked a nut down tight to the head. That nut was then ground down round to match the size of the bolt's head.
Got shock extenders? Any more than a 4" drop & those are mandatory. They should come with the flip kit anyhow.
Don't forget to notch the box cross-member over the rear diff pumpkin.
You'll also have to reposition that rear brake line on the top of the diff. jus to make absolutely sure that it doesn't get pinched under a hard suspension compression.
Depending on the condition of the roads in your area, & how often or how hard you drive the truck, a 5/7 or 5/8 may be just a bit too low. Lots of guys have gone that low & some use them as their DD, but for around here, it's just not a good plan.

 

[Scottydc]

I will have to look at the spindles to see if they're dropped or not. I do not think that they are since my control arms are so close to the bump stops it makes me think that most all of the drop is from the springs.

 

[sewlow]

That ain't good! Lol!

 

[JWall]

I am a fan of Western Chassis parts. I've had several trucks lowered with their stuff with no complaints.
Both of my current 98's below are lowered using all Western Chassis parts with the exception of shocks.
I am running Doetsch Tech shocks on both trucks. The WC shocks were too soft for my liking.

Both of these are a 5/6 drop.

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[Scottydc]

Would there be any reason why a extended cab kit would be different than a reg cab? Other than perhaps a relocation for the carrier bearing? Quite a price difference in the ones labeled extended cab.

 

[sewlow]

I've only lowered RCSB's. Not sure of the diff between the kits. The carrier relocation may be what the extra $$$ is for. There are some builds here that should be able to help, or someone with experience may drop in.

 

[soco1949]

Why does it say this kit is for extended cabs only

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[Bob L]

JWall what is the drop on the blue truck and what parts were used. I am thinking of lowering mine some more but don't want to go to low to use for light duty hauling and trailer towing. Thanks.

 

[Scottydc]

That looks like it's around a 4/6 drop. Maybe 4/7. Hard to tell from this angle.
Dropped spindles? Probably. And if they were causing the tires to touch the fender lips, then they would more than likely be BellTech's or Canuck MotorSport. The original style of 2" drop spindles for these trucks. They push the wheels out approx. 1"-1.25". That was done back when a 17" wheel was considered big & the extra offset was built into them in order for the wheels to clear the LCA's.
What size of front tires? A little narrower profile would help to get around the clearance prob.
My front 20's are 255/45 on a 4/7 drop & they occasionally rub. Usually over big compression dips. I have the CMS spindles. I've rolled the fenders & the rubbing is still happening, but very rarely now. I like to roll those lips rather than cut them. Lot easier on the tires!
MacGaughy's or DJM's are the later design & they don't kick the wheels out that 1"-1.25"
For those front springs, I'd just get a set of stockers & cut one coil. 1 coil = 2" of drop. Increases the spring rate. Makes them a bit more stiff, but certainly not like it is with those stupid spring jacks/helper things.
Aftermarket drop springs mimic the stock ride characteristics. Soft & mooshy. Not very performance oriented & besides, with that soft ride, the front end will compress through it's travel much easier, causing the fender rub issues.
When you have your wheels off, get into the wheel wells & grind off level with the nuts all those bolt ends poking through into there from the engine compartment.
Get some good shocks. Short of spending $1500.00 on some QA1's, the ones I like & have found to be the best as far as handling performance are the BellTech Street Performers. The shock is much more substantial in the size of the shaft & body, along with greater improvement in both compression & rebound over all of the others I've tried. A firmer ride than other 'short' shocks. Some people say too firm, but it's the ride I prefer.
For the rear, the flip kit/notches are pretty well all the same. Deciding factor would be price.
To get some more drop, use some drop shackles set at the 1" position. These trucks need a 3" difference between front>rear to ride level. With that though, you will probably have to run some pinion wedges. IIRC, I used a 1.5* wedge. Fat part of the wedge to the front. You may have to extend the center pin that goes through the springs. I just bought some longer gr.8 bolts & cranked a nut down tight to the head. That nut was then ground down round to match the size of the bolt's head.
Got shock extenders? Any more than a 4" drop & those are mandatory. They should come with the flip kit anyhow.
Don't forget to notch the box cross-member over the rear diff pumpkin.
You'll also have to reposition that rear brake line on the top of the diff. jus to make absolutely sure that it doesn't get pinched under a hard suspension compression.
Depending on the condition of the roads in your area, & how often or how hard you drive the truck, a 5/7 or 5/8 may be just a bit too low. Lots of guys have gone that low & some use them as their DD, but for around here, it's just not a good plan.

So.. I finally got around to doing this and got a great deal on everything I need guy here locally. Belltech 4/6 full drop kit, Belltech shocks, rear c notches and flip kit, Energy Susp full mounts & bushing kit, new Hellwig beefy front and REAR sway bars a few other items.

I got the front end done, springs, spindles, control arm bushings, ball joints, shocks ect. First thing I noticed was the wheels/tires were pushed out further, just like you described at least 1-1.5" on account of the spindles! The drop is about .25" lower. My current 275-45-20s are a no go and rub like crazy, I'm hoping that 255-45-20s will be a better fit a little shorter and a little narrower...

Anyways that was a bit dumbfounding on why they'd change the offset, but man what a difference. Once all was installed camber was positive but close to zero. I actually had to knock out the plugs so that I could set it to 1.5* neg. (Mainly just hoping to get a little more upper fender clearance) It rides great compared to before.. But obv bottoms out on the current front tires..

The 275-45-20s are no big loss since they're scrubbed on the insides anyways from the negative camber and bad alignment of the old suspension. I'm not too crazy about my wheels (came on truck) so am considering getting a set of Camaro SS wheels with whatever adapter/spacer I need for them to tuck in a bit on the front.. IDK just yet but I can get a set pretty cheap.