Soft brake pedel

[chris_d]

Two versions of the Kelsey-Hayes RWAL: Early models had a cast-iron body with it's own bleeder screw. Easy to bleed.

Later versions had an aluminum body, no bleeder screw. I've never dicked with those, but I expect they're moderately-easy to bleed.

Far as I know, neither one needs a scan tool, there is no "automated bleed" sequence--but I could be wrong. I thought RWAL was all done by '94. I guess I was wrong.


Very likely. Open the glove box, look for the brake option code. I bet you find either "JN6" or "JB6", which has the 11.x "Duo-Servo" rear drums instead of the crappy 254mm "Leading/Trailing Shoe" drums.

With a little luck, you've got the "14-bolt" axle, (probably 9.5" ring gear, semi-float) which itself is heaps better than the 8.5" ring gear axle of the 1500s.

I checked the glove box and I do have a JB6. I checked the rest of the codes in the build list and it didn't reveal what rear it came with other than the axle ratio of 3.42. However, there were 3 codes that I couldn't find on the RPO code list.

 

[Schurkey]

Count the number of bolt-heads holding the differential cover on.

10 = crap
14 = good

Note that there's two versions of the "14-bolt" axle assembly; the 9 1/2" ring gear semi-float; and the 10 1/2" full-float. You won't see a 10 1/2" axle with 6-lug wheels.

 

[chris_d]

Count the number of bolt-heads holding the differential cover on.

10 = crap
14 = good

Note that there's two versions of the "14-bolt" axle assembly; the 9 1/2" ring gear semi-float; and the 10 1/2" full-float. You won't see a 10 1/2" axle with 6-lug wheels.

Awesome I have the "good" 14 bolt 9 1/2 ring gear semi-float. I learned a lot about my truck today, Thanks!!

 

[Dom2door]

Found this https://www.freeasestudyguides.com/brakes-quick-take-up-master-cylinder.html

 

[Ron88]

I have a 1999 two door Tahoe
I am sure this has been talked about, read all I could find on line but no real fixes.

I did replace all of the flex lines , calipers, pads, shoes, master cylinder and rear cylinders.

I bleed the system every witch way , presser, two person, pressure and two person, and reverse bleeding by pushing fluid up to the master cylinder. I also did bleed the ABS system via automatic bleeding.
I tracked it down to my calipers. I pinched off the flex lines an I get a good hard pedal this tells me that there is no air in the lines. I don't know what would cause this in my front calipers and the back could be a little out of adjustment.
Pedal gets better with just the back flex line pinched. Pinching the passenger front has more effect on the pedal then the driver side front. Could it be bad calipers?
Thanks for any help, Dom

Dom I don't know if this will help you but many years ago I had a Cadillac in my shop that had a musy or dropping pedal I wont bore you with all that went on but it came down to the wrong master cylinder the ones the part guys were sending were for a car with rear disc brakes and this car had rear drum brakes.

 

[TheRabbitChaser]

Not applicable to the newer, "EBC310" series ABS controller. That did work with the older EBC4 controller.

The EBC310 that’s mounted on the driver side inner fender, yes you can bleed it at the bleeder valves on each side of the valve body block

Low pedal on vehicles equipped with Kelsey Hayes EBC310/EBC325/ EBC410 ABS systems - Phoenix Systems

Bypassing dump valve in modulator allowing fluid into the low-pressure accumulator causes low pedal on vehicles equipped with Kelsey Hayes EBC310/EBC325/EBC410 ABS systems. The EBC310/EBC325 system is on GM, Ford, and some Dodge light trucks and SUVs. The EBC410 system is on the Ford Windstar...

www.brakebleeder.com

 

[Dom2door]

Rabbit
The photo you posted with the green circles. Those are on the proportioning valve. When I activate the dump valves with my scan tool the pedal acts like i think it should, pedal all the way to the floor for each of the 3 sections.
I believe the fountain that jets up when I press the pedal is the loss of the take up fluid for the low drag calipers. I will try to mess with the quick take-up valve this week end.
With all the bleeding that I did, no way I have that much air for my pedal to travel that far.
If I jump on the pedal it feels hard but just steadily goes down, I think it is just the restriction of the hole on top of the QTU valve. Once the large piston passes the QTU valve port brake pedal.

 

[Schurkey]

The EBC310 that’s mounted on the driver side inner fender, yes you can bleed it at the bleeder valves on each side of the valve body block

Low pedal on vehicles equipped with Kelsey Hayes EBC310/EBC325/ EBC410 ABS systems - Phoenix Systems

Bypassing dump valve in modulator allowing fluid into the low-pressure accumulator causes low pedal on vehicles equipped with Kelsey Hayes EBC310/EBC325/EBC410 ABS systems. The EBC310/EBC325 system is on GM, Ford, and some Dodge light trucks and SUVs. The EBC410 system is on the Ford Windstar...

www.brakebleeder.com

Maybe YOU can. I cannot. I tried multiple times.

The photo in your post doesn't match the photos in your link.

The port on the passenger side seems to be a "dummy". There's no ball or stem to push, nothing bleeds out.

The port on the driver's side--nearest the engine computer--is just the metering valve for the front brakes. I can push the stem, hold the stem in...but again, no fluid comes out. It's like all metering valves--the stem is only dicked-with to open the metering valve when pressure bleeding the front brakes.

It's not an ABS valve. Not a "low pressure accumulator". It's a metering valve that doesn't expel brake fluid.

 

[TheRabbitChaser]

I found a video for everyone for the 96 to 2000 obs fender mounted abs bleeding

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[Schurkey]

That's the video I watched before trying to bleed mine.

I got nothin'.