Max negative camber, removing limiting tabs in upper control arm front brackets.

[ArdentFab]

(1989 Silverado, RCSB, 5.7L)

Wanted to share how I was able to achieve -2.5° of camber in the front with stock control arms and a 5/6 drop. I use my truck for autocross so I want all the negative camber I can get. It really made a incredible improvement in cornering power.

The front upper control arm brackets have these limiting tabs in the slotted holes for the eccentric bolts. On my truck, I couldn't get the front most eccentric bolt to go fully inwards to get negative camber due to the limiting tab still intact.

As you can see in the picture, I've knocked that tab out.

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The best way I found to do it is to get an air hammer (you're gonna have a long day and sore hands with just a chisel and hammer) and knock it out from the inside out. I sat inside the wheel tub essentially. As for the control arm, I didn't have to separate the balljoint from the spindle, I just simply turned and moved it aside.

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Once it's out, you can assemble everything and turn the bolts all the way negative.

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I found that both upper control arm brackets had the limiting tabs only on the outside holes (forward-most and rear-most). The rears had them in a location that I would never need to go to so I didn't bother with it (will never need negative caster, only positive maybe around +4°-5° for an aggressive autocross setting).

Hope this helps someone!


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[Knuckle Dragger]

This tool makes it easier: https://www.amazon.com/OTC-7491C-Upper-Control-Knock-out/dp/B000F5JMCC

Back in the day I had two of them in my tool box at all times. They tend to break after a few dozen uses with air tools.

 

[gearheadE30]

both the gmt400s I've had have still had all of the tabs in them, and I've been able to just use a hammer and punch and then clean it up with a die grinder. I never could get the camber I wanted out of mine; the tahoe will only get me around a degree and a half negative and doesn't give me any room to increase the caster. It was a problem with closer to stock suspension, but now that it's stiffer with less roll, it seems to be enough camber to not tear up the outside edge of the front tires in aggressive driving too badly.

 

[ArdentFab]

Hey, that's a cool tool, thanks for sharing that!

It also depends a lot on what ride height the truck is at. I'm sure if I had my truck at stock hieght I wouldn't be able to get near the amount of camber I have now.

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