Improved handling

[BCChevyZ71]

I’m planning for 4”. Mines a 2500 so I’m swapping to 1500 leaf springs, drop hangers, and drop shackles. I am curious which amount of degree shim you used to correct things.

Up front I’m using 3” drop keys but it will be stiff as it’s a thick 2500 torsion bar .

Overall I don’t mind if it’s not quite as low as yours but close is my goal. Im
In the middle of building the hot side for the gt-45 turbo which will be fun being a 5 speed manual. Will run slicks in summer and studded winters all winter. Alberta life

With 4WD may be different, but my advice if drag racing is your goal activity...I would do what your planning with a 4 leaf 1500 spring pack rear swaybar and completely ditch the front swaybar or find a way to quick disconnect...my truck consistently spins both back tires now on a launch with the rear sway bar...but even with a basically stock 350 and 11" wide tires it will not dead hook...but my truck had and still has absolutely zero weight transfer...I watched through a ton of that digginZ71 YouTube videos and he's completely removed the front swaybar...like I said 4WD may be different but I'd rather have the back end hook hard and the front more likely to break traction sounds like less breakage to me...also your torsion bars unless your a 454 truck are going to be the same torsion bars as me I ran my RPO codes and I 100% have k2500 350 torsion bars...also be forewarned your upper ball joint angles if your an 8 bolt truck are going to be horrendous I'd look at doing a reverse ball joint flip and mount your control arm to the bottom side of the ball joint just my opinion

 

[BCChevyZ71]

I purchased the base lowering kit I started with from here https://thedropshop.ca/ I just used the shim kit they provided when they sent it out

 

[Sean Buick 76]

Thank you, mines a 6 lug 2500 so it’s a bunch of 1500 parts mixed with heavy duty stuff which is interesting for parts upgrades obviously. I have a feeling it will end up with cal tracks or traction bars in the rear. It’s a 350 truck but on turbo boost it’s gonna be a handful either way. I was planning to do kryptonite tie rod ends like on my off road trucks to help keep the front end from getting floppy under power. It’s just a fun truck, I won’t be racing it as I’ve got a dedicated 800 Hp race car.

 

[Sean Buick 76]

With 4WD may be different, but my advice if drag racing is your goal activity...I would do what your planning with a 4 leaf 1500 spring pack rear swaybar and completely ditch the front swaybar or find a way to quick disconnect...my truck consistently spins both back tires now on a launch with the rear sway bar...but even with a basically stock 350 and 11" wide tires it will not dead hook...but my truck had and still has absolutely zero weight transfer...I watched through a ton of that digginZ71 YouTube videos and he's completely removed the front swaybar...like I said 4WD may be different but I'd rather have the back end hook hard and the front more likely to break traction sounds like less breakage to me...also your torsion bars unless your a 454 truck are going to be the same torsion bars as me I ran my RPO codes and I 100% have k2500 350 torsion bars...also be forewarned your upper ball joint angles if your an 8 bolt truck are going to be horrendous I'd look at doing a reverse ball joint flip and mount your control arm to the bottom side of the ball joint just my opinion

Hey there do you happen to have a photo of the tear end shims you used to correct your pinion angle? I’m lowering the same amount so I will need the same size shim.

 

[BCChevyZ71]

Hey there do you happen to have a photo of the tear end shims you used to correct your pinion angle? I’m lowering the same amount so I will need the same size shim.

I don't I believe they are a 2 degree shim they where super minimal. They are the shim belltech suggests for a 4" rear drop. My driveshaft angles perfect with these and my 5" rear drop, but I also kept my 5 leaf spring packs. If your doing 4" rear drop with a 4 leaf spring pack you'll likely accomplish the same height out back and driveshaft angles as I have. The only thing I noticed was that my driveshaft was pushed right into the t-case. In saying that I also have an aluminum driveshaft swapped in which is 3/4 of an inch longer then the steel counter part I think? Im 2 or 3 months in running it this way and no weird shakes or vibrations so I'm calling it a non issue. I think your gonna really like it the only downside I've found at all so far is that I can't crawl under it without jacking it up anymore.

 

[Sean Buick 76]

Good info thanks!