I'm not buying a 2500

[Jrgunn5150]

I can't seem to find my other bag or tank. But I have a bag and 1 compressor haha.

Welders can weld, and fitters can fit, but the porta-can-man knows his ****.

The battle is half won lol.

 

[azblacksheep]

Gettin there. I got the other bag somewhere. It's the tank I'm pretty sure I don't have anymore. Any idea if I can run air bags without a tank? Haha

Welders can weld, and fitters can fit, but the porta-can-man knows his ****.

 

[Jrgunn5150]

Gettin there. I got the other bag somewhere. It's the tank I'm pretty sure I don't have anymore. Any idea if I can run air bags without a tank? Haha

Welders can weld, and fitters can fit, but the porta-can-man knows his ****.

I don't think my dad's truck has a tank, just a schrader he pumps air into or let's it out of.

 

[azblacksheep]

I've seen that. I might do that

Welders can weld, and fitters can fit, but the porta-can-man knows his ****.

 

[michael hurd]

First off, if you want it to not squat when towing, get a proper ball mount with torsion bars for the trailer.

Copy / paste of torsion bar codes.

Code to weight rating ( torque in Ft-Lbs )The code if missing off the bars, is located on the label in the glovebox. ( RPO codes )

" The bar RPO's will be a three digit code, something like "RGK or "LGK" where the second two digits are of course the bars letters."CHEVY TORSION BAR CODES AND RATINGS:

15048307-LH (code XK) (Max torque 4553)
15048308-RH (code XK) (Max torque 4553)

15048309-LH (code XL) (Max torque 4626)
15048310-RH (code XL) (Max torque 4626)

15712407-LH (code WX) (Max torque 4863)
15712408-RH (code WX) (Max torque 4863)

15048311-LH (code XM) (Max torque 5638)
15048312-RH (code XM) (Max torque 5638)

15058267-LH (code YH) (Max torque 5913)
15058268-RH (code YH) (Max torque 5913)

15712409-LH (code WY) (Max torque 5913)
15712410-RH (code WY) (Max torque 5913)

15528957-LH (code GG) (Max torque 6709)
15528958-RH (code GG) (Max torque 6709)

15712411-LH (code WZ) (Max torque 7267)
15712412-RH (code WZ) (Max torque 7267)

15528963-LH (code GK) (Max torque 8615)
15528964-RH (code GK) (Max torque 8615)

15528965-LH (code GL) (Max torque 8782)
15528966-RH (code GL) (Max torque 8782)

15732338-LH (code XG) (Max torque 9054)
15732339-RH (code XG) (Max torque 9054)

15528959-LH (code GH) (Max torque 7161)
15528960-RH (code GH) (Max torque 7161)

 

[michael hurd]

Worn out / toast upper and lower control arm bushings will exaggerate the movement of the suspension with the plow, and contribute to a terrible ride and tire wear issues.

Simply replacing worn out upper control arm bushings will help with the sag you encounter.

I gained 3/4 inch in fender height simply by replacing tired upper bushings on both sides. Be sure to preload the suspension before tightening the control arm cam bolts ( I had the truck sitting on stands under the lower control arm with tires off )

I did not replace the lowers, they require a lot of work on a rust belt area truck to replace, more than I was planning on doing.

 

[michael hurd]

IIRC, my F44 suspension package 1500 had the GH torsion bars installed from factory. Check your label to see what you have.

I would be inclined to seek other solutions before changing torsion bars.

As far as cranking the torsion bars to make it sit higher, I would caution against it. By eliminating the droop travel in the suspension ( how far the wheel does or doesn't move downward ) it will ride like a total piece of crap.

Cranking the bars will also cause the suspension to run out of the ideal camber and caster range, and can cause issues with the angle of the front axle CV joints.

What I am really trying to tell you is don't try to be cheap... it will cost you many times more in the end.

If you want more tire clearance, there is nothing wrong with a body lift. It will preserve the factory steering geometry. For more money, you can install a lift kit to lower the front axle and all the related parts, but is more invasive than installing a body lift.

Other than that... you are on your own.

 

[azblacksheep]

First off, if you want it to not squat when towing, get a proper ball mount with torsion bars for the trailer.

Copy / paste of torsion bar codes.

Code to weight rating ( torque in Ft-Lbs )The code if missing off the bars, is located on the label in the glovebox. ( RPO codes )

" The bar RPO's will be a three digit code, something like "RGK or "LGK" where the second two digits are of course the bars letters."CHEVY TORSION BAR CODES AND RATINGS:

15048307-LH (code XK) (Max torque 4553)
15048308-RH (code XK) (Max torque 4553)

15048309-LH (code XL) (Max torque 4626)
15048310-RH (code XL) (Max torque 4626)

15712407-LH (code WX) (Max torque 4863)
15712408-RH (code WX) (Max torque 4863)

15048311-LH (code XM) (Max torque 5638)
15048312-RH (code XM) (Max torque 5638)

15058267-LH (code YH) (Max torque 5913)
15058268-RH (code YH) (Max torque 5913)

15712409-LH (code WY) (Max torque 5913)
15712410-RH (code WY) (Max torque 5913)

15528957-LH (code GG) (Max torque 6709)
15528958-RH (code GG) (Max torque 6709)

15712411-LH (code WZ) (Max torque 7267)
15712412-RH (code WZ) (Max torque 7267)

15528963-LH (code GK) (Max torque 8615)
15528964-RH (code GK) (Max torque 8615)

15528965-LH (code GL) (Max torque 8782)
15528966-RH (code GL) (Max torque 8782)

15732338-LH (code XG) (Max torque 9054)
15732339-RH (code XG) (Max torque 9054)

15528959-LH (code GH) (Max torque 7161)
15528960-RH (code GH) (Max torque 7161)

This made my day. And should make the parts search better/more accurate. (Assuming I have access to rpo codes on junk yard trucks

Welders can weld, and fitters can fit, but the porta-can-man knows his ****.

 

[azblacksheep]

IIRC, my F44 suspension package 1500 had the GH torsion bars installed from factory. Check your label to see what you have.

I would be inclined to seek other solutions before changing torsion bars.

As far as cranking the torsion bars to make it sit higher, I would caution against it. By eliminating the droop travel in the suspension ( how far the wheel does or doesn't move downward ) it will ride like a total piece of crap.

Cranking the bars will also cause the suspension to run out of the ideal camber and caster range, and can cause issues with the angle of the front axle CV joints.

What I am really trying to tell you is don't try to be cheap... it will cost you many times more in the end.

If you want more tire clearance, there is nothing wrong with a body lift. It will preserve the factory steering geometry. For more money, you can install a lift kit to lower the front axle and all the related parts, but is more invasive than installing a body lift.

Other than that... you are on your own.

I cranked the bars so the trucks level now. And I really like a stiff front end. I've had 2 trucks in the last 3 years with a wet noodle front end. My f150 had no shocks, and my chevy just sunk in every turn and hard braking. Do having the bars cranked (6-7 turns now?) I'm really liking it. Thank God I don't go blasting thru the desert with that truck anymore.

My concern comes when i put heavy t bars on the front. Will the front end naturally sit up more? Or will they need to be turned?

Welders can weld, and fitters can fit, but the porta-can-man knows his ****.

 

[michael hurd]

I have read there are indexing issues with the 1500 keys and the HD 2500/3500 bars, but I have not verified this for myself.