I just really need to know how to ohm out the map, maf, and o2 sensors. I also have data for those sensors.
What would you learn from "ohming out" the sensors that you wouldn't learn--easier and better--from the scan tool?
I don't know of a procedure for ohm-testing a MAF. Never done it. Far as I know, they work on an AC frequency, not resistance. Similarly, I've never put an ohmmeter across a MAP or O2 sensor. I'd have to check the service manual to see if there's an applicable resistance check. A voltage check with a multimeter is possible, but again, you're getting the same data via the scan tool, faster and easier.
The distributor is brand new and the rotor is a duralast one because it's a bit more insulated the the accel and others.
My concern is that a "new" distributor is almost certainly a Communist-Chinese unit, with a cheap distributor cap.
On the lower intake gasket where you use like a gasket maker, it was my first time doing it so idk how I did.
Are you talking about the "China Wall" at the front and rear of the block, or are you using RTV to stick the gasket to the cylinder head?
If this is the "China Wall", all you need is enough RTV to be squeezed between the manifold and the block--so that there's no voids from one side to the other.
The whole spider, fuel pump and filter are new.
Excellent. What is the fuel pressure?
Also me being stupid forgot to say it has a code for ignition control circuit voltage high. That's the other sensor I would like to ohm out, not the actual icm but the "secondary" icm unit next to the coil.
There is no "secondary" ignition module. The unit by the coil is the only ignition module. You wouldn't test an ignition module with an ohmmeter anyway.
Download the service manual set procedure for your vehicle from the links in the "sticky" section of the Engine forum. Follow the service manual diagnostic procedure for that "ignition control circuit high" trouble code.
Have a video of what the o2 sensor are doing. And how would I know if one of those sensors are bad when scaned by a tool
Generally, they have low cross-counts; and maybe they don't switch across the full voltage range. You might also see trouble codes for the O2 heater circuit, too.
When it comes to O2 sensors, I learned the hard way that sometimes replacing them is easier than properly diagnosing them; especially if they have more than 50K miles on 'em.
It's one of those deals where it's possible to prove they're bad, but truly difficult to prove they're good.