HELP 6" RCX LIFT POSSIBILITY!

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77Concours

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Ok guys, I need help ASAP. My truck went in yesterday to have new control arm bushings installed. Well I got a call from the garage today saying how I need new tie rods, ball joint on the passenger side, new idler arm (just replaced in November). With labor and parts and whatnot they want $920! Would a lift solve most of these problems? My dad gave me the go ahead to order a 4 or 6" lift. Seeing as the RCX is only $75 more than all that work would it be worth it (minus the labor cost to install the lift)?

If so I need help finding the lift the cheapest

I know an idler arm doesn't come with the lift or tie rods or any of that but the torsion keys being cranked will just continue to damage stuff.


ALSO my 3" body lift will be staying on.
 

Swims350

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if you have bad angles due to crank then yes it's eating parts left and right.

a lift with less angles would indeed help or just decrank, and nobody ants to decrank lol.

use the lift, leave the angles close to flat and be done.

That price is outrageous though I have a hundred bucks in all four ball joints, all four tie rods and 2 adjusting sleeves, and a new idler arm. I did all in my driveway with hand tools. I only used an impact to make things faster.
 

JollyGreen

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That price is outrageous though I have a hundred bucks in all four ball joints, all four tie rods and 2 adjusting sleeves, and a new idler arm. I did all in my driveway with hand tools. I only used an impact to make things faster.

Ya, but half that is probably labor. I call bull$hit on that all being $100.


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bluex

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Ya, but half that is probably labor. I call bull$hit on that all being $100.


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Chinese stuff probably, no way it's moog or raybestos pro. I had almost $500 in all my moog stuff from rock....
 

tylers88

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Chinese stuff probably, no way it's moog or raybestos pro. I had almost $500 in all my moog stuff from rock....

I have about $100 in mine minus ball joints, they were still good. Its all parts master from O'Reilly Auto, same warranty as Moog but my ball joints have better boots than my 1 Moog ball joint.
 

Swims350

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call BS all you want, it's what I bought and put in my truck, came from rock auto and NO it's not moog.

so what. I've had cheap stuff last just as long as the expensive stuff.

When you're on a budget you do what you gotta do.

The way I see it I'd rather have it all new then have a couple pieces new and some old using moog stuff. I know mines all new and it was done right, moog or not.

Yea if I had the cash laying around I'd spring for some moog maybe, but when you don't have it you don't have it.

My front end parts have been on my truck for over 6 months now and I'm fully cranked.

So do what you want and beleive what you want. I know what I bought and what I've used. I've used nothing but cheapo over the counter parts for years and it all holds up just fine.


AUTO EXTRA / CHASSIS RITE Part # AXK6291 {#RK6291}
W/ RIVETED OR BOLT ON TYPE; Front Lower

$9.17

AUTO EXTRA / CHASSIS RITE Part # AXK6292 {#RK6292}
Front Upper

$9.35

AUTO EXTRA / CHASSIS RITE Part # AXK6331 {#RK6331}
W/ FRAME BRACKET; Front

$11.71

AUTO EXTRA / CHASSIS RITE Part # AXES2004S {#RES2004S}
Front

$2.65

AUTO EXTRA / CHASSIS RITE Part # AXES2838RL {#RES2838RL}
Front Inner

$5.45

AUTO EXTRA / CHASSIS RITE Part # AXES2836RL {#RES2836RL}
W/ INDEPENDENT SUSPENSION; Front Outer

$6.04


there ya go and for all you doubters, my old man bought the same parts for his 84 same name brand had under a hundred in his and he's had them on for around 2 years if not more and his is driven way more then mine, stock 2wd truck everythings still perfect.
 
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