GMT400 projector retrofitting

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YetiZJ

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Still haven't finished this thread, got busy at work and haven't been on the forum much. Planning on finishing the write-up over the next few days though. Sorry for the delay for those who wanted to know more details.

Any chance of an updated thread? I'm looking to do this on my diesel Suburban in the next couple of months and would love to see some updated info

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v0nzipper

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I am starting a similar project. I've retrofitted a few cars before and cannot live with halogen any longer.

Rig in question is a 1999 Tahoe bought as a COVID project with a bad intake coolant leak. Ended up having "while you're in there" syndrome and did the heads/gaskets as well.

I've had a similar setup as the OP in my track car (E36 BMW) FXR projectors in updated housings. What can I say, I like box style cars!

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Following this thread, I started to assemble the usual suspects, Spyder glass headlight assemblies and an order to theretrofitsource for FXR projectors.

Summer is finally coming to an end in the PNW and headlights and rain-x are two things you should not skimp on.

One thing that differs from the OP is I tried to mount the projector as deep as possible in the housing. Note the holesaw saw below gives a snug fit to the "ring" of the projector. Eliminates the need for a shroud and looks more OEM in such a shallow housing.

Please keep in mind, as a post this, they are still sitting on my workbench. There are two hurdles faced and a risk with this application I have not tested yet.

First, lighting to the right and left of the rig may be cut off due to being recessed so far back.

Second, additional clearance is needed for the adjustment "basket", body mount, AND possible trimming to the radiator support. Waterproofing this system is TBD as the entire projector housing is outside of the headlamp assembly :). Further support/reinforcement of the projector will happen at this step.

Now the risk: You better drill straight or you will have a cross-eyed truck! The OD of the hole saw provides a very snug fit. My plan is to install the assembly without the glass lenses. Mark reference points for general beam aligment, uninstall, and epoxy the projector in-place. Using this method will allow me to get close to perfect, and use the factory adjusters to dial it in.

Lastly, I am exploring options like the OP mentioned to give this retrofit a more OEM+ look. Considering etching the high-beam or entire glass lens and polishing the projector pupil.

Here's my build in progress:

Follow the steps in the original post to disassemble the lights. Then find yourself a 2 11/16" holesaw :/
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Take a close look....
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v0nzipper

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Part 2:
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phatphuck

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I am so ready to get this mod done, but waiting to knock out a few more items on the plus sized grandpa.

This and tows will probably be final touches. But good contribution @v0nzipper .

I dig the e36 too. I have had and built many many e30/e36/e28/e39 BMW sometimes I miss having one around.
 

gearheadE30

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That looks really good! I've got a pair I'm getting ready to retrofit as well, just have to find time. I may try the hole saw route as well; the projector looks better recessed into the housing like that. Hopefully it holds up okay and doesn't crack the epoxy with the housing extending backwards so far.

Did you have to open up the holes in the radiator support as well?
 

v0nzipper

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Yes, rad support needed to be trimmed in a similar pattern as the square "bucket" mount. The passenger side is awfully close to (basically touching) the battery once the bulb and igniter are installed.

This is still a work in progress. I bought some Kydex (moldable hard plastic) to form a support and shroud the entire projector.

I'll document as it becomes closer to a final product.
 

v0nzipper

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Getting closer

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v0nzipper

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Finished product. Not 100% happy with the cutoff, but it will need to do for now. Kydex was used to shroud the projectors. The total depth of the projector/bulb/igniter is about 1/3" away from the battery. You can run dual batteries and still have room.

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