Engine won't crank over. Smoke coming from pos. batt terminal.

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Travis

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A little background-
I am somewhat mechanically inclined... I am learning and doing everything myself to save money. I joined the marine corps after high school, and my job takes up most of my time. Therefore, it is a slow learning process. Point being, excuse my naivety! The reason I don't have a lot of posts is because I guess I don't have much knowledge to offer... YET.

I posted the specs of the truck I bought about a month and a half ago. Link- http://www.gmt400.com/forum/showthread.php?18997-My-Blacked-Out-89-1500. I have done so much to this truck already as the previous owner did everything half-assed to get it on the racetrack. The block is out of a 2000 Tahoe z71. Also, there is an MSD ignition and distributor, an optima blue top battery, and a push button start (key has to be turned right before you would normally turn it to crank it).

The problem-
I replaced the spark plug wires because a couple had melted because they were resting on the headers. I changed them out with Bosch wires (lifetime warranty) and routed them out of the way of the headers. Started it up and drove to the hardware store. Came out, tried to start the truck up. It turned over once or twice, and then quit. After a few more failed attempts, I assumed the battery died. I tried to get a jump- same symptoms. Let it charge from the other truck for 15 minutes- same. I left it there, came back the next day, and assumed it was a positive wire that was hanging down under the truck, right next to the starter. I tried to crank it over with that wire on every single post coming off the starter- same symptoms. My buddy moved the wire away from the frame and starter... I tried it a few more times and finally it fired up. We electrical taped the exposed wire and made sure it wasn't touching anything. Brought it to the gas station, put some gas in it, tried to fire it up, same symptoms as before. I kept trying to start it and finally some smoke came out from the positive battery terminal. I said enough is enough, my buddy and I were both confused and he tow-strapped me home. Here she sits. I have no idea what can be wrong. I am about to rewire the entire truck. I recently cleaned the battery terminals and added 4 guage wires from the pos battery to alt, negative battery to frame, and frame to engine block to ensure it was getting enough current. Here's something else that blows my mind- When I removed the stock positive going from the alternator, and tried to start it with just the positive 4 guage to the battery, the truck acted like the battery was completely disconnected. I thought the alternator wire simply went from the pos to to the alt?

Sorry for the long post, but I am trying to describe everything I can. The truck has almost no stock sensors hooked up. The voltage meter, speedometer, fuel, and temp guage are the only guages left stock because it has a carb. No map sensor, no o2 sensor, nothing really. Aftermarket oil pressure and tachometer are installed. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Respectfully,
Travis
 

magimerlin

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You only mentioned 2/3 of the grounds. You didn't mention the negative battery post to block.... That's the main one.

I would take out the battery and alternator since you said the battery started to smoke and have them both tested. Just in case.

And yes one of the positive wires does go straight to the alternator.

You need to trace back that wire you found and see where it actually goes.


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Travis

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^I mispoke- meant from neg battery to engine block, not frame to block. ;)

The alternator is brand new but I will have the battery checked for sure and I will find out where the hanging wire goes tomorrow after work.
 

Travis

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Starter and Alternator both passed. Battery was pretty close to dead... He said I could come back in an hour and the test would be complete, but I just told him I'll come back tomorrow after work. I worked the loose wire up toward the engine bay, and took a pic. It has purple sheathing. The sensor has blue sheathing. I included a picture.

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magimerlin

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The blue is an add on connector. Just a standard ring connector. Where it would hook to with all the aftermarket stuff you have I have no idea. The larger black connector looks like an earlier style knock sensor connector. Or possible a coolant temp sensor connector. Those are the only two sensors I have seen on a Chevy/gmc that use that style connector.


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Massey

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THe purple wire is the wire that goes to the ignition switch and the sensor plug you have in your hand looks alot like the knock sensor plug.

Massey
 

magimerlin

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Never used an msd box.. Wondering if it needs a stand along knock sensor to work right. As far as the timing advance goes. If that is the case there should be a round looking sensor screwed into the block somewhere and the wire would go to the msd box.


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Travis

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That's what I was reading online... knock sensor plug. The only thing is, he basically removed all sensors, so it would make sense why he removed this one as well. Is it possible that because he switched over to a carburetor, he felt there would be no need for any sensors? I just got a 3 pod a-pillar mount from "shiftglow" (looked legit) and I ordered a tach, vacuum gauge and air:fuel gauge. I also got in an innovate motorsports LC-1 sensor to hook up to the gauge in the pod, because I read great reviews on it and didn't want to go with the sensor shiftglow would've sold me instead. I'm trying to get this thing to the point where I can monitor gauges and I can read a gauge if anything goes wrong. Basically trying to dummyproof this rig.

Like I said though, he installed a push-button start and I only have to have the key in the run position before pushing-to-start. If I crank it all the way like you normally would, nothing ever happened. That is why I feel the purple wire wasn't hooked up. I will check the back of the engine block tomorrow after work to see if there is a spot for the knock sensor. As you know, the block is out of a 2000 z71. So we will see. Thank you for the responses; it is appreciated more than you know!

Oh, furthermore, I found out the largest wire going from the battery to the starter is corroded through the sheathing... at least the three inches back that I stripped it from the battery. If I were to replace this wire, would a high quality, 4awg wire meant for car audio (amps and such) work or is there a special "heat-resistant" or "automotive grade" wire I need to replace it with?
 
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magimerlin

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The corrosion will add a lot of resistance to the wire. A good per-made automotive battery cable can be had almost any auto parts store for cheap money. Just measure how long you need it to be. Or you can make one. The audio power cable isn't really built to be in the engine bay except to bring power out of the engine bay. It's casing really isn't the best as far as chemical and heat resistance like the automotive cable is. If you do want to make new better larger cables I would get the automotive stuff so you just do it once and be done with it. Again most good parts stores will have it, and sell it by the foot. It's usually always behind the counter so you will have to ask for it.

I always make my own. No wasted length that way and can run it how I want to run it. I make my mains outta 2 gauge and my extras outta 4 gauge.


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