I dont mind at all ive learned more reading this whole thread back thru then ive learned posting my question, one last question though im going to thru with full rollers and i found a a pair of self aligning rockers that are also full rollers and was seeing what you thought of them or if should go with guide plates and normal full rollers. (Im matching the heads to accept screw in studs). I also am doing the alex parts springs and verifed that it will fit on my heads.
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I don't KNOW if those RAs are narrow-enough to fit in rocker valley of iron Vortec L31 heads (I understand those are heads you're using) while ALSO affording enough room in-between RAs for the Vortec Valve Cover CenterBolts to fit without interfering with RAs. Suggest ask summit if they are narrow-enough for Your heads. At same time, perhaps ask summit who manufactures those RAs? Perhaps they're made by Scorpion; perhaps not. Scorpion is a very good quality USA-made aluminum RA. Summit claims their $375 RAs are USA. I would not install a die-cast aluminum RA.
As you've observed already; never install a self-align RA with a guideplate. Only one or the other.
I also prefer steel RAs over aluminum. But I also avoid chinesium valvetrain; regardless of material. However, I'm familiar enough w/ Alex's parts to KNOW that none of their Vortec kits' spring pressures are so high that it should REQUIRE a steel full-roller rocker arm such as Crower. Frankly, I'll suggest a set of Stamped Steel, pivot ball, self-align RAs from Elgin's Black Ice line (Black Ice are cryogenic-treated). BTW, Elgin's sets include eight RAs; requiring Two sets per motor. But, if I were so inclined to go full roller with relatively mild valvetrain, I might also install threaded RA studs, guideplates and "Normal" Non self-align RAs. It seems you're intent on having screw-in studs; so, do the guideplates as well but without self-align rockers. But, I'm not so inclined to run full rollers here. As for guideplates, suggest split/adjustable guideplates; instead of one-piece.
Ya do know the following, right? --- stud industry standard for Bottom thread is Coarse 7/16-14 --- while some have Fine 7/16" Top and others Fine 3/8" Top. It's true the larger 7/16" Top is sturdier than 3/8" --- but ya must choose RAs according to whatever size-diameter Top of stud is.
Cheap or pricey, small or large, No Stud can withstand coil bind etc; verify all clearances.
If/when ya change RAs from OE to aftermarket, plan on needing different Length PushRods too.
Suggest have any old heads tested for cracks/warping BEFORE ya commit to Any other parts & labor.