Bad running after manual swap

[JPVortex]

I didn't say it was a rotor problem I was explaining a symptom, not a problem

Oh gotcha, I just went back and reread that; my bad I didn’t read that right.

 

[JPVortex]

Really though Im at the point of just relocating the coil to where its happy lol. Im going to try adding that ground and wiggling the wires some more, aswell as hard wiring it to the battery for testing, but past that if its happy with the coil on the firewall, ill just let it be happy there.

 

[JPVortex]

I didn't say it was a rotor problem I was explaining a symptom, not a problem

Any chance the tach signal wire could create any problems? On the gray connector, white which goes up to the cluster. Pretty sure it's just an output wire that goes to the cluster, but just making sure.

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

Im going to try adding that ground and wiggling the wires some more, aswell as hard wiring it to the battery for testing, but past that if its happy with the coil on the firewall, ill just let it be happy there.

I'm reminded of this:

Patient: "Doctor, it hurts when I do this"

Doctor: "Then don't do that"

IMHO that's just hiding a problem and hoping it doesn't come back to bite you in the @ss.

Any chance the tach signal wire could create any problems? On the gray connector, white which goes up to the cluster. Pretty sure it's just an output wire that goes to the cluster, but just making sure.

Well, in normal operation it's an "output" to the tach, and it's "driven" by the ignition control module... but if something was amiss on the tach wire it could cause a problem. If prior owner did some funky stuff and that wire was left bare and somehow exposed to a possible ground point (firewall, etc.), a momentary ground of that wire would create a momentary spark from the coil, and repeated, erratic grounding of that wire would cause repeated, erratic sparks from the coil.

 

[JPVortex]

I'm reminded of this:

Patient: "Doctor, it hurts when I do this"

Doctor: "Then don't do that"

IMHO that's just hiding a problem and hoping it doesn't come back to bite you in the @ss.



Well, in normal operation it's an "output" to the tach, and it's "driven" by the ignition control module... but if something was amiss on the tach wire it could cause a problem. If prior owner did some funky stuff and that wire was left bare and somehow exposed to a possible ground point (firewall, etc.), a momentary ground of that wire would create a momentary spark from the coil, and repeated, erratic grounding of that wire would cause repeated, erratic sparks from the coil.

Side note from the post first, I wish I knew how to quote your different parts of the response, would be a lot more organized lol, but,


Yeah I agree with that analogy for sure. It may just be the only option I’m left with. It’s still at the shop, but I’m getting ready to pull it out of there, they have had no communication with me and I have no clue what they’ve done or are doing with my truck.

That’s good to know for testing with the tach wire. If direct wiring the coil doesn’t do anything, then I’ll temporarily cut the tach output wire to take that out of the equation.