97 chevy suburban k1500 5.7 axle help needed

[SuburbanEscape97]

There is a large amount of rust build up as well.

But I do appreciate all your help. Long time lurker of this forum. Never posted because any issues I have had I've read in previous posts (if your not checking this. That or the other 1st your not giving us enough information to work with) so after doing what I've read I always narrowed it down myself. IM just gonna pull everything, clean it up, try to reseat the rear axle into a good position, check & set pinion angle & see how it goes

 

[movietvet]

A "bad" regular shock will not cause a lean. Shocks are there to absorb spring action and keep the tires in contact with the road.

 

[SuburbanEscape97]

No i hear You, even after typing it out my critical thinking part of my brain was calling myself a moron for ever thinking that. Only other guess I have is it developed or already had axle wrap. I'm a novice but Im trying to learn because I truly love working on my trucks. I appreciate your response. This forum has been awesome for me rebuilding (fuel system, brake lines, ignition systems etc..)

 

[movietvet]

The only way to learn is ask or do or both. I used to run a shop, here in Eugene, Or., that built springs and made our own u-bolts. I watched and asked. I had a specialist that built them. Is late and will get back tomorrow. Respond back so I get the alert.

 

[movietvet]

If the springs in the pack are the same thickness and same number of them, side to side, then the thickness of the packs will be the same. There will be friction pads in between them where the centering bolt goes thru and bolts them together. Those are there to create a slight space to help with noise that is caused by the springs rubbing during use. There will also be spring wraps somewhere along the length of the spring leaves. The axle spring perch is typically flat with a hole in the center where the spring pack centering bolt head is set in to. If the springs need a shim that is shaped like a wedge, that is so the tilt is there to meet the driveshaft and the shim will also have a hole in it for the centering bolt. They are typically the same thickness and wedge, side to side. The u-bolts hold it all together and attaches at the axle. Rust can eat it all up and allow breakage and shifting. Sometimes an extra spring or thickness of a spring can be different from side to side, because of a large fuel tank that when full will cause a lean to one side or the other. Or the vehicle runs around with a load to one side at all times, like a work truck.

 

[Keeper]

Boy, this sounds like a project I have waiting to do if I ever decide to tackle it. I have the same basic issue on a K2500 suburban but it is more of a winter driver/parts truck so the dogtracking doesn't bother me that much as it's just not driven enough. The PO on mine had new u-bolts put on but they didn't check the cocked angles on the rear. Figured I'd share just for the misery-loves-company comraderie.

Good luck with it though!!

 

[movietvet]

Usually, dog-tracking happens because of, sheared center bolt, broken u-bolts, worn spring eye bushings, damaged spring eye attaching bracket, broken/missing spring leaf's or poor quality install. Dog-tracking is nothing to put off. When is dog-tracking, the rear u-joint is working at an additional angle besides the normal differential tilt. It is now working at a side to side angle as well. That can not only damage the driveshaft, u-joint but also the pinion bearing and seal.

 

[SuburbanEscape97]

Boy, this sounds like a project I have waiting to do if I ever decide to tackle it. I have the same basic issue on a K2500 suburban but it is more of a winter driver/parts truck so the dogtracking doesn't bother me that much as it's just not driven enough. The PO on mine had new u-bolts put on but they didn't check the cocked angles on the rear. Figured I'd share just for the misery-loves-company comraderie.

Good luck with it though!!

Just finished, after pulling an all nighter, she is my daily driver hauling tools & material. Whoever owned before me that either did the rear leafs themselves or had someone do it. The passenger side leafs were set on a slight angle. So the center bolt didn't shear it was just set with a lean & then the sway bar & link & pinion angle was off. Pain in the a$$ but no more lean, sag or vibration so far. I'm gonna go over kill & re torque the U Bolts 250miles. (Rather keep an eye on everything then count it as good & be sorry later). Thank you all for the input

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

FWIW:

I've noticed on my 1998 Suburban that, if I jack up the front end with the jack centered on the crossmember, the vehicle lists to one side. I've always figured it had to do with aging of the rear springs, e.g., sag, rust, bushing collapse, you-name-it.

We've owned the truck since it was practically new (it was 1/2yr old with 30kmi when Dad bought it) and everything in the suspension is original. It's got around 270kmi on it now.

 

[movietvet]

IMO, I would not wait for 250 miles to check the tightness/torque, unless you do that in one day. I would check within the first 50 miles and should be good moving forward. That was our recommendation at the shop I ran. It was a quick, less than 10 minutes task, for the shop. We would pull the vehicle on the drive on rack and check it all. Even without a drive on rack, it is not that bad to crawl under with an air gun or long 1/2" drive ratchet and deep socket.