Godholio
OBS Enthusiast
My 95 Suburban's got me stumped. Whether I use the keyless entry or the power lock buttons inside the truck, the result is the same. Hitting "LOCK" locks all doors. Hitting "UNLOCK" (twice on the keyless entry) only unlocks the driver's door...not the passenger or rears.
I bought the truck in the spring and over the summer I didn't really drive it, I was just fixing the little things previous owners ignore on an old truck (broken door latches, trim pieces, JB Welded radiator, etc). But I noticed this problem sometimes. Sometimes the locks worked fine. For a while I thought it was tied to low battery voltage, but now it happens even at 12.7v, so I don't think so. I haven't ripped all the doors apart yet, only two: the rear barn door latch at the top wasn't working (previous owner used a small screwdriver to release it when needed) because the mechanism at the bottom was broken so the rod wasn't moving properly, and the rear passenger door because...well it was jacked up inside. The lock release rod was bent, which broke the plastic tab on the interior handle, and the lock actuator was bound up because the rod was bent. When I was reassembling everything, the power locks ran the actuator just fine. After it was all buttoned up, the truck sat for a couple of weeks and now the intermittent problem seems constant.
The owner's manual doesn't describe any feature or setting that explains it, like a child lock feature. I've replaced the keyfob battery, but a dying battery wouldn't explain why the buttons inside have the same result. If the relay were bad, it seems like all Lock or all Unlock functions (or both) would not work. But the driver's door locks and unlocks fine.
From looking at the wiring diagram from the service manuals, it doesn't look like there's another common point of failure except maybe a bad connection between the relay and wherever that Tan 294 (hot for unlock) line splits to all the lock motors (splice S280). Or maybe the equivalent splice (S282) for Gray 295 (GND for unlock).
Does anyone have any better ideas before I start digging in and tracing wires to find these splices to see if one of them is the problem? Or ripping the passenger door panel off to test connections there. That's probably the place to start, but I'm not in the mood for that so I'm hoping there's a better idea out there.
I bought the truck in the spring and over the summer I didn't really drive it, I was just fixing the little things previous owners ignore on an old truck (broken door latches, trim pieces, JB Welded radiator, etc). But I noticed this problem sometimes. Sometimes the locks worked fine. For a while I thought it was tied to low battery voltage, but now it happens even at 12.7v, so I don't think so. I haven't ripped all the doors apart yet, only two: the rear barn door latch at the top wasn't working (previous owner used a small screwdriver to release it when needed) because the mechanism at the bottom was broken so the rod wasn't moving properly, and the rear passenger door because...well it was jacked up inside. The lock release rod was bent, which broke the plastic tab on the interior handle, and the lock actuator was bound up because the rod was bent. When I was reassembling everything, the power locks ran the actuator just fine. After it was all buttoned up, the truck sat for a couple of weeks and now the intermittent problem seems constant.
The owner's manual doesn't describe any feature or setting that explains it, like a child lock feature. I've replaced the keyfob battery, but a dying battery wouldn't explain why the buttons inside have the same result. If the relay were bad, it seems like all Lock or all Unlock functions (or both) would not work. But the driver's door locks and unlocks fine.
From looking at the wiring diagram from the service manuals, it doesn't look like there's another common point of failure except maybe a bad connection between the relay and wherever that Tan 294 (hot for unlock) line splits to all the lock motors (splice S280). Or maybe the equivalent splice (S282) for Gray 295 (GND for unlock).
Does anyone have any better ideas before I start digging in and tracing wires to find these splices to see if one of them is the problem? Or ripping the passenger door panel off to test connections there. That's probably the place to start, but I'm not in the mood for that so I'm hoping there's a better idea out there.
