2000_Z-71
Newbie
New to the forum with this truck, was on here with my old sierra, so 
Bought a 2000 Chevy Tahoe Z-71 (OBS) last week. Owned by an older guy who had it for 45K miles with no problems other than him doing a set of brakes, fuel pump, and intake gaskets (or so he said).
When I test drove the truck, I started it cold and heard a light squeal and noticed the tensioner bouncing every which way. Came back two days later and started it again to buy it. Started right up...had a slight lifter tick, but nothing bad at all...went away after about 5-10 seconds. I figured I could run some tranny fluid through it to clean it out. The block was COLD when I started it before buying. I checked before I fired it up.
Paid $4500 for the truck (new tires, shocks, and the above mentioned work) 145K miles and no rust (rare for a MI GMT400). Well the next day when I hopped in to drive to work (after sitting outside at 0 degrees all night), it cranked for about 10 seconds then fired up. I've owned two GMT400's (95 Yukon GT and a 98 Sierra) so I figured it was a bad fuel pump that was allowing pressure to leak down (had same issue on both trucks). Once it started, it had a terrible sound, sounds like the piston slap on my dad's 4.8L GMT800 but worse. Went away after warm up. Went to work (I work at AutoZone) and tested the schraeder valve on the fuel line. Sure enough, bad fuel pump. Did a complete tune up on it that night (tensioner pulley, dayco serp belt, idler pulley (had play), lucas fuel system treatment, autolite dbl platinum plugs, wires, cap and rotor, air cleaner, cleaned MAF, oil change with Pennzoil hi-mileage and fram filter, DEX VI trans fluid w/ filter, new diff cover gasket and lucas 80W-90rear end dope). Ran 4.1 qts oil and 1 qt lucas oil stabilizer in the engine oil (10w-30) hoping to make it go away for the time being. The tune up and oil change made it worse, now it has the (knock?) at all times, warm or hot. It increases with RPM's as well. Needless to say, I'm pissed, guy wont answer my calls.
I can get the master rebuild kit (with pistons) through AutoZone for $450 with .030 over pistons (http://www.fme-cat.com/Application....=Engine&subcat=Engine Kits&brand=Sealed Power). Wanted to see if you guys had any experience using these kits.
The video is crappy, had to compress to upload because I took it in HQ on my phone, but you can clearly hear what sounds like to me a rod knock...if I'm off let me know. Much appreciated from SW Michigan.
View My Video
Bought a 2000 Chevy Tahoe Z-71 (OBS) last week. Owned by an older guy who had it for 45K miles with no problems other than him doing a set of brakes, fuel pump, and intake gaskets (or so he said).
When I test drove the truck, I started it cold and heard a light squeal and noticed the tensioner bouncing every which way. Came back two days later and started it again to buy it. Started right up...had a slight lifter tick, but nothing bad at all...went away after about 5-10 seconds. I figured I could run some tranny fluid through it to clean it out. The block was COLD when I started it before buying. I checked before I fired it up.
Paid $4500 for the truck (new tires, shocks, and the above mentioned work) 145K miles and no rust (rare for a MI GMT400). Well the next day when I hopped in to drive to work (after sitting outside at 0 degrees all night), it cranked for about 10 seconds then fired up. I've owned two GMT400's (95 Yukon GT and a 98 Sierra) so I figured it was a bad fuel pump that was allowing pressure to leak down (had same issue on both trucks). Once it started, it had a terrible sound, sounds like the piston slap on my dad's 4.8L GMT800 but worse. Went away after warm up. Went to work (I work at AutoZone) and tested the schraeder valve on the fuel line. Sure enough, bad fuel pump. Did a complete tune up on it that night (tensioner pulley, dayco serp belt, idler pulley (had play), lucas fuel system treatment, autolite dbl platinum plugs, wires, cap and rotor, air cleaner, cleaned MAF, oil change with Pennzoil hi-mileage and fram filter, DEX VI trans fluid w/ filter, new diff cover gasket and lucas 80W-90rear end dope). Ran 4.1 qts oil and 1 qt lucas oil stabilizer in the engine oil (10w-30) hoping to make it go away for the time being. The tune up and oil change made it worse, now it has the (knock?) at all times, warm or hot. It increases with RPM's as well. Needless to say, I'm pissed, guy wont answer my calls.
I can get the master rebuild kit (with pistons) through AutoZone for $450 with .030 over pistons (http://www.fme-cat.com/Application....=Engine&subcat=Engine Kits&brand=Sealed Power). Wanted to see if you guys had any experience using these kits.
The video is crappy, had to compress to upload because I took it in HQ on my phone, but you can clearly hear what sounds like to me a rod knock...if I'm off let me know. Much appreciated from SW Michigan.
View My Video
