454 peanut port combination

[Tom Mobley]

Kristian,, I think you need to stop here and re-evaluate you plan. I've seen a lot of these builds go off the rails because there wasn't a good plan in place before starting. Kind of like the old saying " the cowboy got on his horse and rode off in all directions." I see you getting a lot of good advice from techinspector1 and myself here but you need to decide whether you want to proceed with rebuilding your engine with the stock heads or move on to aftermarket aluminum heads. doing away with the EFI has implications beyond just unbolting the the TB and tossing it. You need to understand what all that is. For instance, does the transmission have a locking torque converter? if so, is this controlled by the computer? are there other functions of the truck controlled by the computer and what's going to happen to them if the EFI is done away with? You can probably get help with understanding this stuff from the guys here on this forum. Due to your location it could be extremely inconvenient and expensive to have errors here.

One thing: it's difficult to get good valve job work here, I'm not at all certain you can even get it there. Do you have a machine shop in mind? Do you know if they have a Serdi or Sunnen machine and the tooling and experience required to work on these heads? Or maybe there's a European equivalent of this machinery that I don't even know about? The AFR 265s may be a better option than you're thinking.

The roller cam upgrade is critical IMO.

 

[Tom Mobley]

BTW, your crank looks fine. YOur rods can be re-sized and used if you have a trustworthy machine shop. For the RPM range anticipated you probably don't even the premium bolts upgrade. If you do decide to go to the ARP bolts they must be installed before the rods are resized. must.

 

[Kr1st1an]

First of all, im truly thankful for all help i get. As i said im new to this and some questions may seem stupid. Also my english isnt perfect so i guess some posts i do can seem like im not thankful tho to how i explains myself, thats absolutly not the case its just me having a hard time express my self in english..

While you are shopping around, have your machine shop to put a good 5-angle valve job on the heads.

Also answer to @Tom Mobley : In Sweden a 3 angle valve job is called "Mira". Is a 3 angle valve job good enough? Anyway ill ask the machine shop about it.

Also, have someone cc the heads or do it yourself.

Will this be necessary even tho we have it on "paper"?

The work that has to be done to the heads is outlined in the link to Grumpy that I provided you in post 16.

Yes, ive got ALOT more reading to do.

What I was suggesting is a low-buck plan re-using the cast iron peanut port heads that came on your motor. Grumpy will outline the work to be done to them to make a motor that produces 500 ft/lbs of torque

Well, nothing of this is because i cant buy a new engine or a pair Airflow Research 265 cc. I do it bacause i want to learn as much as possible, and i guess i learn more from porting the pp heads compaired to buy new heads.

I automatically assumed that you wanted to keep costs to a minimum and re-use as many of the parts that you can, but if you want to expand the budget and buy a set of Airflow Research 265 cc intake port heads, then we will be way ahead of the game, albeit at greater cost.

Quick question here: IF we go for Airflow Research 265 cc , will crank and rods hold up?

Not sure what you mean about attacking the project wrong. Do you mean that you want to say and do everything that you can about the block, then do the same to the crank, then the rods, then the pistons, etc.?

Nono, sorry as i said i do the best i can to express my self. I mean that or i guess that depending what head we go for will change the other components. And after reading some of Grumpy's post i have to dissamble the heads and see what i can do and what the machine shop can do. If that gets as expensive as new heads, i go for new even tho i will learn less.

Take the rods with you and ask how much they want to install aftermarket premium bolts and nuts and re-size the big ends

Have to ask here this : Why do the big ends needs to be re size?

Kristian,, I think you need to stop here and re-evaluate you plan.

YES, i think you understood me right.

Maybe I am assuming too much. If you don't want me to be involved in this project, please just say so.

I very much want you involved. You are not assuming to much, im very thankful that you answer my questions. If it's something, then it's me asking the questions incorrectly..

My next post can take some time, i got alot of reading and work to do. Both with heads and real work

/Kristian

 

[techinspector1]

Thank you Tom Mobley. You are correct, just because I would prefer to yank all the electronics out of the truck does not mean that it is the proper way for the OP to do it. He may be better served to alter the computer or do whatever it is that you do to EFI vehicles. I have never hot rodded a computer-controlled vehicle and probably never will and it was selfish of me to even suggest it.

Tom, what I was thinking was cleaning up the heads with maybe a little grinding and smoothing in the ports and bowls. The heads have decent sized valves for the intended purpose of the motor (idle to 4800/5000 rpm grunt) and the flow should be adequate for the intended purpose.

I was also thinking that a 150 shot of N2O via a plate system would be the coup de grace. I know how to do it with a carburetor but like I said, I have no idea how it would work with an EFI system.

The motor will need a good set of (rather small because of the limited rpm's) round tube, equal-length headers, maybe 1 3/4" diameter, with either an X or H pipe immediately after the collectors. Having had headers to warp the flanges and spit out the gaskets one too many times, I would be shopping for minimum flange thickness of 3/8". If someone would step up to the plate and make a set of headers with 1/2" flanges, I would gladly buy them.

"Quick question here: IF we go for Airflow Research 265 cc , will crank and rods hold up?"
Stock crank and rods are good to 800 hp. If you used those heads, you wouldn't need the bolt-on nitrous.

 

[Kr1st1an]

Thanks for all the answers!

Here is a new question,

To do the port match porting. Should i use a pp gasket or a oval port gasket?

Maybe someone can put a direct link to Summit or rockauto and i will order asap.

@techinspector1 , Grumpy says max lift with standard springs etc is .500. Do we have a plan for this?
I will also need some old valves when unshrouding the valves and polishing the chamber, will we reuse old valves? Atleast they look good..

Thanks

 

[Kr1st1an]

I have started the porting, still in progress. First time, so any input good or bad is apprichiated. I grinded a valve down to minimal size so i could really unshroud the exhaust valve.

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