Not in his case, seen many loud setups with sub up port back very few with subs back port back. My car is setup subs forward port forward due to space(all in trunk) there's also very loud setups with subs forward port firing to the side
Generally on that kind of build you would do port firing back with 3-5in of space but it looks like you're stuck with the current placement. Plans to get it metered? Also what do you have it tuned at?
looks like a nice upgrade. Welcome to the forums.
As a chevy diehard driving fords all the time at work (besides the old 1990 R3500) they have not grown on me at all.
best legal score its done is a 157.3, although he usually dose a 154.xx he did do a 159.2 in the anything goes class. I did a 161.8 in that class also.
How about some 12s? =P not a fair fight but would be fun. There was a build at this last finals with 2 15s in a civic thing was a beast then he sold it for a gmt400 iirc not sure what hes doing now, last i knew he was gonna do a blow through.
you want the rms and you need the ohms that make the huge difference. http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp would be a good place to go once you figure out the ohms and if its SVC or DVC. I'm betting its a SVC 4 or 8 ohm.
Well if you don't know about amps, make sure you have the subsonic at 20-25hz or so no bass boost and the gain at less half down (some go from 6v to .2v) lower is full gain and higher is no gain.
If the subs you got didn't fit it was because the mount depth wasn't correct, also if you hear air around your spacers use some silicone to seal them up.
The new type r's have the tinsel leads in the spiders, play em hard and watch the smoke. Also most of kickers stuff hasn't changed in 5 years. They arn't a bad sub but they don't have very much throw thus making them more higher note oriented.
Thats very simple you wire to 1ohm your gonna rise to at less 2ohm
my car is wired at 1ohm .5ohm per amp and rises to 2.6 has gone to 4ohms in the past