1993 Yukon crate motor hydraulic roller lifter cleaning and adjustment journey - (Solved)

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Road Trip

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Good morning Scott,

I've got a head full of sleep, a fresh cup of java in easy reach, and
I've been brewing up a suitable response to all of your questions.

Will be sending it asap. Glad to see that you are so motivated to
make it as right as rain. :waytogo:
 

Road Trip

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Of course that was the issue... still very interested in hearing about taking notes on adjustments as it relates to loosening or tightening
Will see how a test drive goes....

Hello again scott,

Setting the valve lash may or may not have altered what your computer
has stored in the area having to do with adaptive learning. There is some
debate about all this, but essentially this is the area where, as your engine
normally ages the computer will store (in volatile memory, requiring constant
battery power) how it has learned to compensate for the (expected) changes to the
signals coming into the computer. (Either the engine wearing in, sensors
drifting a bit from their initial calibration, etc.)

Please stop here and read both attachments. The first attachment tells that
disconnecting the battery for ~30 seconds will clear the contents of the volatile
memory. (ie: clear the codes.)

In the 2nd page, there's a brief mention of the adaptive memory function, which
is also stored in the volatile memory.

****

In English, in order to get the best results from all this work and get some real
value out of your test drive, after everything is buttoned up, I'm asking you to
disconnect your vehicle battery (per the '93 FSM) for ~30 seconds, reconnect it, and
then go on your test drive.

And per the manual, at the beginning when it's starting with a clean slate, it may
or may not run all that smooth. But after your test drive, (neighborhood, highway,
and a mix of everything else) ...it will relearn what it takes to get YOUR engine bay
compensated for in order for the net result to be as close to factory original specs as
possible.

As I've mentioned earlier, you have been performing a bit of invasive surgery on
your powerplant, and it make take a bit in order for it to become steady again. It's
all that adaptive learning going on. And we want it to forget what it was like to
run with the valve covers off... :0)

Hope this is helpful. Still crafting a response to the answers of your other questions.

Cheers --
 

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  • Adaptive learning cleared by battery disconnection per FSM --(marked up) 1993_ST-336-93_GM_ST_...jpg
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scott2093

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Thank you.. I did disconnect the battery for a bit after setting my timing . Seems it may have drifted 2 degrees over the course of the couple of weeks since I did it last. Maybe hold down bolt wasn't tight enough... Maybe?

I have a rigged up air hose for my pcv hose and need to go to the store to get a proper one bc it's obviously collapsing a bit... I'll take the other car so my truck doesn't start off thinking wrong...
Thank you.
I really want to learn about the adjustments. Unfortunately too, I'll need to replace the intake gasket again because it looks like I didn't do a good job with the china wall..minor.....but....hopefully no funny business going on inside that I can't see...

Tempted to use something other than ultra black
Obviously don't want to do this again....I'd feel more comfortable setting and torquing within 5 minutes as opposed to setting just enough, then waiting an hour..but then I hear of people using different ones just around cooling passages etc...
But I won't stray there yet...It's going to be a little before I get to it again...
 

Schurkey

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Tempted to use something other than ultra black
Permatex The Right Stuff "One minute" black (not red) is strongly recommended.

This will not be in a squeeze-tube. It'll be a caulking-gun cartridge, or a pressurized can similar to foam insulation. The One-minute formula is too viscous to get pushed out of a squeeze tube.
 

scott2093

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Permatex The Right Stuff "One minute" black (not red) is strongly recommended.

This will not be in a squeeze-tube. It'll be a caulking-gun cartridge, or a pressurized can similar to foam insulation. The One-minute formula is too viscous to get pushed out of a squeeze tube.
Nice. I like the idea of a caulking gun. Eesh 1 minute....oh I see...assemble and torque in 5 minutes... .. 1minute to put in use...impressive

So, after doing the valve adjustments, what makes it seem like the lifters or rockers are clattering for a second at startup? It happened once last night.... sounded like driver's side maybe 1 and today it sounded like the passenger side front when I went to pull it back in garage after rinsing the bay off a bit...
But it didn't do it the few times I started it earlier....
It's like 3 or 4 clacks then goes away.......
I picked up some rislone engine treatment to run a bit (500 miles?) (1000?)and am going to change the oil...Only have maybe 500 on this change but it's already pretty dark and smelly..
 
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Road Trip

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Nice. I like the idea of a caulking gun. Eesh 1 minute....oh I see...assemble and torque in 5 minutes... .. 1minute to put in use...impressive

So, after doing the valve adjustments, what makes it seem like the lifters or rockers are clattering for a second at startup? It happened once last night.... sounded like driver's side maybe 1 and today it sounded like the passenger side front when I went to pull it back in garage after rinsing the bay off a bit...
But it didn't do it the few times I started it earlier....
It's like 3 or 4 clacks then goes away.......
I picked up some rislone engine treatment to run a bit (500 miles?) (1000?)and am going to change the oil...Only have maybe 500 on this change but it's already pretty dark and smelly..

Hello scott2093,

Welcome to the rabbit hole that threatens to swallow you up when you start to pay closer than
average attention to the sounds of a SBC valvetrain. :) Especially if it was previously enjoyed,
has had parts replaced, motivated either by a broke/fix scenario...or a perfectly good stock cam
was taken out so that it could be replaced by a bigger/badder/mo' better one.

Seriously,

That '3 or 4 clacks' comment tells me that your ear is getting pretty sharp on this stuff. Good.

My short answer is that you should replace the oil & filter asap, and see if you can eliminate/mitigate
what you are hearing. Any loss of an oil's viscosity and/or microscopic debris inside can lead to a
hydraulic lifter bleeding down sooner than it normally would. (Lifters that have bled down while the
engine was off and now take a handful of cycles to pump back up to a fully quiet configuration.)

****

My longer answer, based on chasing this same phenomenon many moons ago and wondering why
the issue was so intermittent & random?

Welcome to the 'Which Lifter stopped on top of the cam lobe?' Lottery
. :0)

OK. Most normal, well-adjusted people leading the good life have never, ever given a single thought
to the 720° distribution curve of exactly where a V8 engine comes to rest after the human switches
the key off.
But since we're in the hunt for why you have one or more hydraulic lifters intermittently
clacking a few times immediately after startup...we have to go there. :0)

Now there are a handful of flexplate/flywheel/ring gear devos in the audience that, after years of 'reading'
the wear on high mileage ring gears, will tell you that the majority of the time the crankshaft stops
in 1 of 4 positions in the 360° of rotation. And those positions coincide with one of the cylinders
coming up on the compression stroke. Makes perfect sense. As the speed lessens from idle towards
zero rpm, there comes a point where the increasing resistance of a compression stroke is more than
the remaining inertia of the rotating assembly brings to the situation.

And way back when, when times were tight and the old truck in the driveway had a bad spot in the
ring gear causing the starter to zinnnnnnnggggggg when it once in awhile hit the bad spot? Well, the
extra frugal guys would drop the flywheel, remove the ring gear, change the phasing 45°, reinstall the
gear, and get some more reasonably reliable good use out of the wounded part.

At least that's the stories that The Elders liked to share with yours truly. Never did it myself, but I
appreciated the underlying thought process. NOTE: The more affluent dudes would buy a new ring gear,
replace the bad one on their flywheel, and be done with the nonsense. But it was a different time, especially
growing up in the midwest where The Elders had more time than money to invest in their vehicles. (!)
People didn't think of replacing a perfectly good flywheel with a bad ring gear on it for $$$, when a $$
ring gear would get the job done. (See attached.)

...but I digress. Hopefully the above sold you on the concept that the crankshaft tends to stop in
one of 4 distinct positions. But now let's layer on the fact that the camshaft spins at exactly 1/2
the speed of the crankshaft. This means that the camshaft is going to essentially stop in 1 of
8 specific spots.

Here comes the lottery aspect. Let's say that 15 out of 16 lifters all meet the OEM factory specifications
for all the internal bits. And the oil is clean, proper viscosity, and there's no tiny foreign objects/debris
that could hold a check ball off of the seat? But lifter #16 was put together with a too-loose
tolerance? Or possibly a small defect in the circular seat where the check ball has to seat in order
to keep the 'oil pressure at shutdown' inside the lifter plunger?

Big picture time. 15 lifters good, 1 just a little looser than the others but otherwise functional?
Well, IF the engine stops where the marginal lifter is sitting on the base circle of the cam, then
when the engine is restarted all is quiet under the bonnet. On the other hand, IF this one little
bit looser lifter is sitting on top of it's cam lobe when the engine stops, then this lifter is now
subjected not to the 'closed valve' spring pressure, but instead it's seeing the 'full open'
valve spring pressure. And all this extra pressure is going to eventually force the engine oil out
of the inside of this lifter. Voila! When you restart the engine, that extra valve train clearance
in this one assembly = clack clack clack clack...quiet that you hear.

In a perfect world, all 16 lifters are of factory quality & meet assembly line tolerances. There's no
cam lobe or lifter base wear. The oil is clean, and the check valve in the oil filter is top quality. This
engine will start and run clack free.

With just 1 iffy lifter, thanks to the engine stopping position lottery will be pretty intermittent.
With 2 iffy lifters, it will be more often. And if all 16 lifters came from a bad batch, then obviously
it will clack on every single start up, because no matter where the engine comes to rest, there will
be at least one intake and exhaust cam lobe up high. Pretty cool, huh?

****

Getting back to the short answer. Change the oil and filter asap, and see if we're just dealing with
16 good lifters with just a bit of microscopic debris not allowing the check ball / check disk / whatever
from doing it's job inside one or more of your 16 hydraulic lifters.

EDIT: Brought forward a couple of hydraulic lifter diagrams from the beginning of this thread. Due to the
super tight clearances, Clean oil is key. (!)

Hope this helps. By the way, if you are still reading all this, I don't think that this startup clattering is due
to your valve adjustment. But if you haven't changed the oil since disturbing that intake manifold
you need to rectify that as soon as practical.

For what it's worth. Remember, Nothing Good is Easy. :0)

Cheers --
 

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scott2093

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I went ahead and added a bottle of Rislone engine treatment with the oil change. I had some 5w30 and 5w40 to avoid buying any.. Just grabbed the nice filter.
Man the passenger side ticked like mad at startup...Probably 3 or 4 seconds but then settled down...it's never done this before I started adjusting the valves...but it hasn't run this good for some time either....
Was warming up to go for a test drive and watching the scanner.. Everything looked good.. O2 sensor and counts seems lazy .. It's a newer AC Delco... I need to remember to watch when I'm driving. I'm not sure how it's supposed to act at closed loop idle....

Anyway, all the driver's side valves were super quiet, no ticks before heading out but it seemed like every one on the passenger side was ticking....
It was raining out so I couldn't get too adventurous driving but everything seemed great... When I got back from drive, the passenger side valves quieted up a lot.. It's not a focused type tapping for the most part like it was before...A little faint here and there...but an extreme change for sure..

Did have some condensate smoke out of the exhaust for 5 minutes or so before heading out too... Coolant levels are good I think. I forgot to check when I got back 15 minutes ago and it's about 1/8" below the hot mark...hmm...
Something nagging me to get to those intake gaskets again..sooner than I'd like....
 

Road Trip

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I went ahead and added a bottle of Rislone engine treatment with the oil change. I had some 5w30 and 5w40 to avoid buying any.. Just grabbed the nice filter.
Man the passenger side ticked like mad at startup...Probably 3 or 4 seconds but then settled down...it's never done this before I started adjusting the valves...but it hasn't run this good for some time either....
Was warming up to go for a test drive and watching the scanner.. Everything looked good.. O2 sensor and counts seems lazy .. It's a newer AC Delco... I need to remember to watch when I'm driving. I'm not sure how it's supposed to act at closed loop idle....

Anyway, all the driver's side valves were super quiet, no ticks before heading out but it seemed like every one on the passenger side was ticking....
It was raining out so I couldn't get too adventurous driving but everything seemed great... When I got back from drive, the passenger side valves quieted up a lot.. It's not a focused type tapping for the most part like it was before...A little faint here and there...but an extreme change for sure..

Did have some condensate smoke out of the exhaust for 5 minutes or so before heading out too... Coolant levels are good I think. I forgot to check when I got back 15 minutes ago and it's about 1/8" below the hot mark...hmm...
Something nagging me to get to those intake gaskets again..sooner than I'd like....

Thanks for the status update. I was going to ask how your truck is currently running,
and how much of an improvement is it from where you started?

Now that you have your nice filter in hand, change your oil & then drive it for a few days
and let us know if your lifters settle into a quiet, smooth-running groove. NOTE: I do
not know how many miles are on your engine. Is it the same for the valvetrain? How many
miles on the valvetrain prior to the recent adjustment you performed? Did all the valves require
the same/similar amount of loosening, or were there a few that had to be really loosened up
in order to get to the 'just quiet/zero preload' setting?

In English, IF your hydraulic lifters were adjusted one way and they've been run that way for awhile,
there could be some built-up varnish inside those lifters, and now with the internals in new
positions you now may have a legitimate 'sticky lifter' situation. Fresh, high-detergent engine oil,
filter with high quality anti-drainback valve, and if you feel lucky possibly the Rislone will get
that varnish removed, allowing the lifters to become quiet again.

The bottom line is I know that any discussion of hydraulic lifter behavior starts to sound like so
much hocus pocus. But with any luck, with fresh oil the engine will settle into a new groove and
will show it's appreciation the best way it knows how.

Fingers crossed for Quiet Running.

Cheers --
 

scott2093

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I was going to ask how your truck is currently running,
and how much of an improvement is it from where you started?
Where I started almost 3 weeks ago before doing the intake manifold gaskets and adjusting is a big improvement. I hijacked someone else's thread before starting this one 3 weeks ago and had explained how I was getting some weird random sewing machine /marbles in a can rattle in the motor . Not sure what it was but it's no more. Almost think a ***** of carbon may have been rattling around but idk. I did find a couple of small chunks.

I still feel like after my initial failed attempt at setting the preload cold when the intake was off and then trying a quick running adjustment had a different feel that I was really blown away by. That's when I started this thread because I had smoke coming out the exhaust but hadn't driven it yet. But after the drive, the smoke went away and I was super jazzed at the performance.

Could have been because I was so used to it running a certain way before that, the first impression was weighing heavy.

I wish I had taken notes but I'm 99% sure I did 1/4 turn then and not 1/2..and I don't know how much I loosened them.Oh wait..this thread is my notes...it was 1/4 turn...

The next morning (still about 3 weeks ago) I wanted to give adjusting another shot since my fear of doing it wasn't there and I could rig up some shields to minimize the mess. That really didn't go as smooth as I had hoped and I'm certain I didn't let the clacking settle in before going with the 1/4 turn...seemed rushed because my shields were not working great...better but not fun...

So then I went oot, truck had much more power at higher speeds was the most noticeable thing. Ran great. Did hear a brief rattle at startup a couple of times but knew I was going to get some valve covers to cut up and try again.


Again was yesterday. Didn't take notes (didn't see your advice til after) but really felt like I loosened them a lot more.

I mean, shouldn't it be around 1/4 turn loosening to get some clatter if that's where I had them set a couple of weeks ago? But I made sure to let things settle before assuming the clacking was not going to quiet which I really didn't do in the past...
Now that you have your nice filter in hand, change your oil & then drive it for a few days
and let us know if your lifters settle into a quiet, smooth-running groove.
I wasn't as clear as I could have been. I did change the oil and filter before I drove today. It was noisy on the passenger side a bit but cleared up significantly after the drive.

NOTE: I do
not know how many miles are on your engine. Is it the same for the valvetrain?
Neither do I unfortunately. My buddy I bought the truck from had a crate motor put in and he can't even remember if it was a stock build. If I had to make a wild guess knowing the history and time frames, I'd say 150k miles and feel pretty good.
I replaced the speedo last year so I'd have to do some math but I think in total the truck has lived around 280k??. Been meaning to get that sorted before things get too far in the weeds.

I swear I saw paperwork for the motor and it was a ToughOne engine when Advance sold them. I think it was Discount auto parts then. Our friend was a manager there and he hooked my buddy up at the time. He was kinda into performance, motorcycles mostly, but there is a chance I guess it may be a little different since he was into cool cars too... He only replaced the motor to be cool, not because damage....but I feel like there's a good chance it's stock.....just looked at a video I had of the rockers and the head is a 193..(14102193)

Only thing I know is it is a 4 bolt main from when I changed the oil pan gasket last year. I wish I had known to look closer at things when I was in there but, I'm learning as I go and I had a mobile mechanic helping me drop the transmission at the time and I was trying to get the oil pan gasket replaced overnight before he returned the next day to finish up.

I actually may have a video of the bottom end now that I'm thinking about it..

If I get into things again, I'm definitely going to take notes and not feel rushed as I usually end up after some point.
I'm sure I'll give it another go when I do the intake gaskets again.... With being at this adjusting a few times now, I couldn't tell you anything meaningful about how many turns it took to get to clacking. I need to focus more next time for sure.

Only thing that stands out from this weekend's adjusting ...., I let things settle and it really seemed like it took a lot of loosening before the clacking would stay consistent and, there were a few valves where the rocker nuts had much more tension than the others during loosening and tightening....

Thank you again for everything. This truck is working itself into my sleep. It's interesting and not something I saw coming for sure..

Don't remember cursing..lol..Surely I said piece or chunk...
 
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