Electric fan conversion

[alpinecrick]

I got this from Advance Auto. Duel core Spectra. Looks exactly like original.

CU624

Spectra Premium believes in a green and sustainable economy. That's why it uses its core competencies of metallurgical transformation, heat transfer and high quality assembly capacity, as well as its extensive expertise, to stand out in the booming vehicle electrification sector in Quebec.

ecat.spectrapremium.com

They are the same radiators, and yes I now remember mine came in a Spectra box, apparently Advance has their own part number. I see RA now carries them, but only list for 97 and later. They are cheaper from RA even with shipping.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

Geezuz, I panic at 210 degrees.......

My 96 G1500 cargo van has a small radiator that looks to be the same as my 91 K2500 had. It runs warmish. My 2002 G1500 cargo van has a larger radiator but it doesn't seem to be quite as large as my GMT400's? Maybe I should measure. Both vans everyday payload is maxed out and I have a stack of ladders on top that act like big sails.........

I ended up parking a 93-95 G30 454 radiator in my 97. Not a perfect fit, but closer than other options and it fit the 01-02 shroud I run on it and I did not have to modify the core support I put in it like I did my OEM one to get a 34" wide dual core in it back in the day. I do have to remove the 10mm upper passenger bolt on the shroud to remove the cap, but it did get me a 2.25" thick dual core without having to modify anything. The 383 runs at 196-199F now even in 100F with the ac blasting.

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[Caman96]

They are the same radiators, and yes I now remember mine came in a Spectra box, apparently Advance has their own part number. I see RA now carries them, but only list for 97 and later. They are cheaper from RA even with shipping.

When I ordered mine from AA, when they delivered it , it wasn’t a Spectra, was a duel core but looked different. I returned it, ordered another and got a Spectra. At that time RockAuto didn’t have any. Only paid about $160.00 for it.

 

[alpinecrick]

When I ordered mine from AA, when they delivered it , it wasn’t a Spectra, was a duel core but looked different. I returned it, ordered another and got a Spectra. At that time RockAuto didn’t have any. Only paid about $160.00 for it.

Yeah, the price has now gone up a $100 since I bought mine. I'm glad I bought a second one for my 97 if or when the radiator dies in that truck.

 

[joshwoloshyn]

Hey Everyone,

I apologize in advance for not posting pics. I had to run right after I dropped everything off at my son’s house.

I am doing a electric fan conversion on my 1988 C1500 5.7 700r4. I purchased a fan from the local pick and pull. It’s from a 2006 Silverado. I bought a new rad from NAPA. It’s spec’d for a 1990 C2500. It’s the 34” wide double row core. I pulled the rubber “mounts” from a 2000 truck with the same size rad. I’m assuming I’ll need new hoses from the same year as the inlet and outlet to the rad is further apart than my stock one.

I will be purchasing a fan relay wiring harness and higher amp alternator before I do the swap. I’ll change the thermostat to a 170 as well.

Is there anything else I need? I’ve searched the forums and read up on the guys who’ve done this before. That’s how I ended up with the fan I got.

As for wiring there’s a bunch of different ways to do it with regards to the AC. I am going to use a relay wired into the AC switch in the cab. This will turn the fan relays on when I turn the AC on. I figure this is better than wiring into the compressor circuit. It’s also simpler than tapping into the pressure switch.

Thanks guys, I find this forum very helpful and hope to contribute. I’ll take pics of the process and post them.

Todd

I am currently doing the same to my 89 with a 5.7L. Mine had the 28" rad before. I got a new upper rad hose for the 34" and modified the lower rubbers to fit the wider core 34". The problem I ran into was with the lower rad hose. Since my rad sits so low in the support, I can't fit a factory lower hose on it. I tried one from a 1990 454 as well and no dice. I just ordered some elbows and such of Amazon to make my own lower hose.

I am running a sniper efi set up, I wired up both fans separately with 40 Amp circuit breakers and I will have the fans come at separate times, the rh fan being first as that is where my tranny cooler is. Lh fan will come on at hotter temps. I just have to find a good switched ground source for my a/c trigger.

 

[kennythewelder]

Here is the thing. Whether you are running a clutch fan, a flex fan, an electric fan, or whatever, when you change your OE set up, you change air flow, and CFMs. It is critical, to use a shroud with whatever set up, you use. A shroud will direct air flow, through the whole radiator. Without a shroud, you are not getting air flow over the whole radiator. The advantage of a properly set up electric fans, and shroud, is that at idle, it will pull more air across the radiator than any mechanical fan set up. Also, it eliminates the drag on an engine at high RPMs. It takes some power, to turn any mechanical fan, and the higher the RPMs the more of a drain it takes to turn any mechanical fan. Although this may be only a few HP, it is still a drain on the total HP, the engine makes. Yes, any electric fans set up, will need to be supplied by a large amp alternator, and most likely at least the big 3 upgrade. If by change, someone installed an electric fan set up, and has had issues with this set up, then the set up, was not correct for there application. It really is as simple as that. What ever fan set up, is used, be it electric, or mechanical, the set up that pulls the most CFMs in a proper fan shroud the covers the whole radiator will be the set up, that cools the best. It's is simple math. More air movement, directed across the whole radiator, will be the more effective system. This applies to the whole RPM range. Again, it's this simple. More air flow, properly directed, will cool better then less air flow.

 

[eXo0us]

My Burb has the plastic 11 blade fan and the severe duty clutch with a zillion fins. Doesn't run hot unless the radiator is low on coolant mix(then the gauge moves scary fast!). The crew cab is also a Vortec 5.7, but it has the metal 5 blade fan and the severe duty clutch. It doesn't run hot either, but I'm wondering if the plastic fan would be worth going to? Both trucks have the towing package and the two row factory style radiator.

I was thinking the same question a couple of years ago on the junk yard. Those 11 blade fan blades go for like a couple of bucks.

Then lazy me won, and just kept the 5 blade. It works and I don't drive enough that it would make any difference.

 

[0xDEADBEEF]

Vehicles that are expected to see engine load for extended periods, you almost always find a mechanical fan from the factory.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

Here is the thing. Whether you are running a clutch fan, a flex fan, an electric fan, or whatever, when you change your OE set up, you change air flow, and CFMs. It is critical, to use a shroud with whatever set up, you use. A shroud will direct air flow, through the whole radiator. Without a shroud, you are not getting air flow over the whole radiator. The advantage of a properly set up electric fans, and shroud, is that at idle, it will pull more air across the radiator than any mechanical fan set up. Also, it eliminates the drag on an engine at high RPMs. It takes some power, to turn any mechanical fan, and the higher the RPMs the more of a drain it takes to turn any mechanical fan. Although this may be only a few HP, it is still a drain on the total HP, the engine makes. Yes, any electric fans set up, will need to be supplied by a large amp alternator, and most likely at least the big 3 upgrade. If by change, someone installed an electric fan set up, and has had issues with this set up, then the set up, was not correct for there application. It really is as simple as that. What ever fan set up, is used, be it electric, or mechanical, the set up that pulls the most CFMs in a proper fan shroud the covers the whole radiator will be the set up, that cools the best. It's is simple math. More air movement, directed across the whole radiator, will be the more effective system. This applies to the whole RPM range. Again, it's this simple. More air flow, properly directed, will cool better then less air flow.

The electrics did not pull as much CFM as the mechanical I am running. Even at idle the mechanical pulls more cfm.

 

[alpinecrick]

Here is the thing. Whether you are running a clutch fan, a flex fan, an electric fan, or whatever, when you change your OE set up, you change air flow, and CFMs. It is critical, to use a shroud with whatever set up, you use. A shroud will direct air flow, through the whole radiator. Without a shroud, you are not getting air flow over the whole radiator. The advantage of a properly set up electric fans, and shroud, is that at idle, it will pull more air across the radiator than any mechanical fan set up. Also, it eliminates the drag on an engine at high RPMs. It takes some power, to turn any mechanical fan, and the higher the RPMs the more of a drain it takes to turn any mechanical fan. Although this may be only a few HP, it is still a drain on the total HP, the engine makes. Yes, any electric fans set up, will need to be supplied by a large amp alternator, and most likely at least the big 3 upgrade. If by change, someone installed an electric fan set up, and has had issues with this set up, then the set up, was not correct for there application. It really is as simple as that. What ever fan set up, is used, be it electric, or mechanical, the set up that pulls the most CFMs in a proper fan shroud the covers the whole radiator will be the set up, that cools the best. It's is simple math. More air movement, directed across the whole radiator, will be the more effective system. This applies to the whole RPM range. Again, it's this simple. More air flow, properly directed, will cool better then less air flow.

Everything you just said.

BUT…..I would also add a factory stock (mechanical) fan is more likely to be reliable than an electric fan add on regardless if it’s a cannibalized OEM fan setup or aftermarket. I’ve got two friends who have both been stranded in the hills when fans or sensors quit working……

Although I still remain (slightly) tempted to find a OE fan setup and fit it to one of my GMT400’s. Just to see if it gains any fuel milage and/or noticeable performance……

Where my truck and I sometimes go is a loooong ways from civilization or cell service. Reliability is paramount.