Won't start and only 1 click at the starter ?

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DerekTheGreat

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Awesome!
Glad you got it going again and thanks for posting back to your thread, I'm sure this will come in handy for people down the road. As I picked up from "Sling blade," start with simple things first.
 
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Can you manually turn the engine? I had an alternator seize once and it did the one click then nothing. removed the belt still no crank as the starter was against the flywheel already. Wacked the starter with a hammer and it started right up. Replaced seized alt. and no problems


Ran into this once wrenching at an older fellas trans shop. His personal truck had been parked close a year. Asuming blown locked engine. I put it on the lift and just for s&g's i cut the serpentine belt off and the bugger fired right up. It was a locked a/c compressor.
 

HotWheelsBurban

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I will check the cables on my Burb tomorrow along with the starter and coil. Good to know that other people's trucks do some of the same things mine does, and I have learned a lot from the good folks on this forum!
 

squablow

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Joined this forum just to add to this thread how thankful I am that someone actually followed up with the answer to their problem! That's incredibly rare.

I recently bought a barn-door '94 Suburban as a fix-up project and had the same issue. Good battery, dash would light up, but no crank, I couldn't even get a click from the solenoid. Went through the steps, obvious stuff first, in the end, the starter end of my positive battery cable was corroded green. I got it out and apart through the wheelwell with the right front wheel off (no need to take the starter off, nut took a 15mm deep well socket, air ratchet sure helps because there's not much room to swing a ratchet), cleaned and sanded it and the nut and the stud it bolts to, then put it all back together and it started right up.

The only helpful hints I can give is don't use a vice grip to hold the key in the crank position (I did that and my solenoid signal wire got really hot quickly and I easily could have burnt it off) and also, the voltage on my dash gauge showed about 9 when my battery tested at 12.3. That jumped up when the starter end of the connection was cleaned, a clear indicator that the cable was at fault (a bad starter or a bad ignition switch should have still showed 12V on the dash gauge). I did also replace the ground straps from frame to firewall to bellhousing, it didn't turn out to be the problem but both of mine were completely broken so it sure wasn't helping matters.

A big thanks to the people who originally wrote this thread, it was a huge help.
 
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