Won't start and only 1 click at the starter ?

[c1500deathtrap]

If it engages the teeth, and doesn't turn the motor your starter doesn't have enough oomph! Check the big ground on the block the one that goes straight to the battery. I'm willing to bet its a crappy lead or not enough cranking amps on your battery. Did you go adding a bunch of compression? or a lot of cam lift on stock stamped rockers?

 

[Darrell]

Here's where I'm at. Using this diagnostic test site: http://easyautodiagnostics.com/misc-index/starter-motor-on-car-tests-1
which is very simple to follow..thanks again east302

THE GOOD
1) My battery (new) is 685 CA and shows 12.75 volts
2) The battery positive cable that's attached to the starter is 12.35 volts
3) Ground cable from Neg battery to the block and other (smaller ga. wire) to the side fender skirt are cleaned (sanded) as well as the metal to the skirt has been sanded to bare. I'm getting good multimeter readings at both location at 12.66 V. So there's no break in either cables (see pics added)

THE BAD, 2 bad readings when the ignition is turned on
1) 6.0 volts at the ignition terminal "S" on the starter
2) 11.56 volts when lead 1 of multimeter is on the positive battery post and lead 2 to the battery post on the starter. From TEST 3, The voltage drop test this should be 0.9 v or less

From TEST 3 it suggest that there's a corrosive wire or bad connection.

This is racking my brain (what little I have)..lol I've gone over and over these wires. Nice and clean with solid contacts. Nothing moves around. And I'm truly beginning to believe it's definitely an electrical problem...but where?

The only other ground strap is a 2 part copper braid (under the ac accumulator, rear firewall) to the frame and to the back of the Trans bell housing. This I haven't touched and I can't imagine it being the problem (or could it) but I'll clean and give it a try.

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[east302]

2) 11.56 volts when lead 1 of multimeter is on the positive battery post and lead 2 to the battery post on the starter. From TEST 3, The voltage drop test this should be 0.9 v or less

From TEST 3 it suggest that there's a corrosive wire or bad connection.

Holy crap, that's one big voltage drop. What is your voltage at the B+ connection at the starter to a ground? It should be just a little less the reading directly at the battery....maybe a 0.5V or less reading would be ideal.

If you have an 11.56V drop between the battery and starter, then there is nothing left for the starter to work with.

I'd look for a damaged cable or bad connection at the battery. Compare voltage at the cable terminal at the battery to the voltage between battery positive and negative.



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[deadbeat]

Sometimes a cable can get a pinhole in the rubber, and not show a sign until there is a spot fully corroded and nearly broken. It should look like a swollen spot in the cable if you can find it. BTW, my truck was doing the same thing for a while and I replaced the starter, fixed it for a while. The last time I put new hot and ground cables on it, now it starts like it should.

 

[BubbaGump]

Battery cables? I've had them look OK but be almost corroded in two internally... Or loose, or not making good connection on bare metal...

 

[Darrell]

I just ran TEST 4, Voltage drop testing the ground circuit. I got a volt reading of 0.02, so that's good.

east302 the starter positive to a ground (the rear starter bolt) was 12.60 volts.

The negative cable is brand new as well, sorry I forgot to mention but the red + that runs across the radiator shroud to the fuse box (engine comp.) is the original.

I guess that'll be my next replacement, the red + cable.

 

[Darrell]

If it engages the teeth, and doesn't turn the motor your starter doesn't have enough oomph! Check the big ground on the block the one that goes straight to the battery. I'm willing to bet its a crappy lead or not enough cranking amps on your battery. Did you go adding a bunch of compression? or a lot of cam lift on stock stamped rockers?

This was a stock build except for the mildest cam and intake. I was driving around for nearly 8 months. Started right up and shut down every time without any hiccups. Came out from home depot after about 30 min shopping and it's never started again. Towed home and sitting since...Grrrrrrr !

 

[c1500deathtrap]

Replace the bad Positive cable then.

 

[Darrell]

WOOHOO !! I replaced the positive cable that's from the battery to the starter it it cranked right up ! That was one of the cables I never replaced and it was corroded inside the sheathing and was almost hard to see until I started cutting it back.
Wish I could buy a few rounds of for everyone ! A stupid $9.50 positive cable.

I truly appreciate everyone that posted up. It all helped! After I bolted it on in less than 5 min, I was thinking "well here goes nothing and what's next". I had to run in the house to let you all know...damn!

Thanks again guys..great site btw !

 

[deadbeat]

Good deal, I put them all new on mine this year, positive and negative, cranks so much faster.