Won't start and only 1 click at the starter ?

[Darrell]

Just installed a new neutral safety switch and same results..one click. The solenoid drive pinion extends into and meshes with the flex plate and that's where it stops. The only other thing left is another new ignition switch. But I'd think if the current ignition switch (which is new) was bad, that I wouldn't even get power to the solenoid to throw the drive pinion out.

There's power throwing the solenoid drive pinion out but not enough to crank the engine ! I also had the battery tested which is new from Feb this year and it tested perfect.

baffled unless it's the ignition switch.

 

[east302]

What is your voltage at the starter battery cable connection...check voltage drop between battery terminal and starter post.

What is your voltage now at the ignition terminal on the starter. Still 9V?


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[mountie]

Update so far, and thanks for all the suggestions.

The grounds are clean and making good contact and the solenoid is protected by the heat shield. The alternator turns freely as well as the engine turns over by hand easily.

After reading east302's diagnostics post, my volt meter is only showing 9.3V at the "S" terminal of the starter while someone has the keys turned to the cranking position. It states that anything less than 10-12V is either a bad neutral safety switch or a bad ignition switch...hmmm !

I already replaced the ignition switch. I'll replace the NSS and see what happens. Stay tuned !

After reading posts, then I got to this one,,,,, I was going to suggest the neutral safety switch. I don't know what year your truck is, but on my '88 I can reach in and SLOWLY turn the switch by had ( one 'click' at a time) and then try. I believe, the backup light should light up in reverse as you move it, as a guess, you are near, the switch should be??

 

[Darrell]

What is your voltage at the starter battery cable connection...check voltage drop between battery terminal and starter post.

What is your voltage now at the ignition terminal on the starter. Still 9V?


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I'll update Thursday afternoon with the voltage drop. I'll be working all day Wed and won't have the chance to check. BTW east302 that's a great web site easyautodiagnostics.com

 

[Darrell]

Work has got in the way since last post. Hopefully this weekend I can try a few things and post updates. Please bare with me.

Thanks all

 

[eyesi]

turn manually your crankshaft, if it does not turn your engine could be hydrolocked, if it is, take out all spark plugs, if keeps not turning you have a major mechanical failure

 

[TravisR]

turn manually your crankshaft, if it does not turn your engine could be hydrolocked, if it is, take out all spark plugs, if keeps not turning you have a major mechanical failure

The alternator turns freely as well as the engine turns over by hand easily.

He already said the engine turns by hand.

 

[Darrell]

Hello again, been so darn busy with job hardly any time to work on up until earlier today. This is driving me nutzzz..lol.

Yes the engine turns freely by hand, I just turned it today again, 2 full revolutions and watching everything turn without any problem. From the Alternator, ac comp, PS pump and all the way to the flexplate. Smooth as can be.

Earlier today I stopped off at a local mechanics shop and was throwing all that I've done at him. He realized I knew what I was talking about and wasn't gonna blow smoke up my arss! The only thing he suggested was that maybe the starter solenoid drive gear was binding to tight with the flexplate, so he gave me some shims to try.

Well the shims didn't work either. While I was at it I swapped the starter back for the 4th or 5th time now (lost count) and still NOTHING but the "one click".

Btw I'm using a bump start switch while laying underneath so I'm able to watch everything with each push of the button.

With the flexplate cover off, the "one click" is just the starter solenoid drive gear kicking out and meshing into the flexplate. At this point the solenoid drive gear does not retract from the flexplate and the clicking is just the drive gear trying to move or retract with each push of the bump start switch. If I loosen both starter bolts and drop the starter 1/8 to 1/4 inch the solenoid drive gear then retracts.

Just to refresh: This is a brand new rebuilt engine that I did. I replaced everything from top to bottom inside and outside. Eng ran strong for approx 6 to 8 months and without any warning. Ran an errand, was about to head home after 30 min sitting and that's when this all started.

Since I've replaced the starter 4-5 times, neutral safety switch (again), ignition switch (again), battery (again). Thankfully at no extra cost. I'm to the point of taking it to a local shop.

Pics are from when I was building it.

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[east302]

What is your voltage at the battery connection on the starter?


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[Darrell]

What is your voltage at the battery connection on the starter?


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I'll check that

What is your voltage at the starter battery cable connection...check voltage drop between battery terminal and starter post.

What is your voltage now at the ignition terminal on the starter. Still 9V?


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East302, I'm going to re-recheck all those volts tomorrow afternoon. Will post results tomorrow. Also all grounds have been sanded clean too.