Whats the best option??

[RHamill]

I'm sitting like 1/2 to 3/4 inches higher in the back than front, I cranked like 5 1/2 turns per T bar, my measurements from ground up aren't accurate because my rear tires have 6/32nds of tread and my fronts have like 10/32nds of tread.

My most recent pictures are on my old mans laptop, but hes working so I don't have access to them, soon I will be washing/claying/waxing my truck. Making an exhaust video and taking some pictures, so stay tuned.

 

[dirtridinz71]

Also anyone shed a little light on my shock question about the ones sold as a "+" size? The truck appears to still have the original yellow Bilstiens on it as well. So new shocks wouldnt be a real big suprise honestly.

With a 2" block in the rear I actually had to use a shock for a 4-6" lift. The 2" longer ones bolted in but were pretty much topoed out, upfront the 2" longer ones worked fine. Wheel offset will make a big difference on if the tire will fit without rubbing or needing to much crank, like Hezsus said you can tuck 285's on stock rims with very little crank. I did try mine on completely stock truck once and they fit but looked stuffed.

IMO you are still off better doing a body lift for a daily driver.

Heres my old ecsb with a 3" body lift and 285's

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My old setup of 2" block and cranked to level with 33x12 on 15x8 wheels

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Angles

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And a 1.5" body lift on top of 6" suspension. Just for reference on the smaller BL's

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[Hezsus]

now those are some angles, but notice that if he were sitting flat how much closer all the frontend diff.ect would be. that is my point with cranking, a BL is useless without tires. You can always crank and uncrank easily, A 2" block may be a little much but i would rather have rake than lean.

Not saying there is anything wrong with a BL, It keeps your rice and everything the same just give more clearance for tires, I would only run a BL if i wanted 35's Crank for 33's. Ideally 35's should be regeared esp if you tow anything.

 

[big_mike]

Yea, those angles above look a little further than I want to go. I think for now I'll most likely crank it up & toss a block in the rear. My reason for wanting to go up is a little more ground clearance as well. Tires wont be a issue as I'll most likely be buying a set of 265/75/16 Duratracs for winter & they are only a 32" tire. And under $200 a piece, LOL. A buddy of mine has a shop so I'll do the crank there so we can do everything at once easily. He can align it for me there as well. I'm not totally out on the BL, I would consider a 1.5-2" later on, but I think a 3" is too much for my liking personally.

Eventually I will have a true lift on it, but it'll probably be a couple years.

So on the shocks again, stock shocks should be ok for how much lift before buying shocks all around should be done? I got no problem buying a set in December. I have seen alot of people talkin about the Bilstien 5100 shocks & those are only about $80 each unless I looked wrong.


Oh I also noticed when searching for rear blocks that alot of them are out of cast iron. Its Aluminum you do not want correct? Iron is ok? I also noticed listings for rear lift leafs instead of blocks, whats the difference there?

 

[dirtridinz71]

now those are some angles, but notice that if he were sitting flat how much closer all the frontend diff.ect would be. that is my point with cranking, a BL is useless without tires. You can always crank and uncrank easily, A 2" block may be a little much but i would rather have rake than lean.

Not saying there is anything wrong with a BL, It keeps your rice and everything the same just give more clearance for tires, I would only run a BL if i wanted 35's Crank for 33's. Ideally 35's should be regeared esp if you tow anything.

Yes you do have a little more clearance under the front end with crank but the rear diff is still the lowest part and that only gains clearance with tires. The little extra clearance is not worth doing frontends every few months.
Nothing wrong with moderate crank, of course I went to far but needed to be level and clear the tires.

 

[dirtridinz71]

Yea, those angles above look a little further than I want to go. I think for now I'll most likely crank it up & toss a block in the rear. My reason for wanting to go up is a little more ground clearance as well. Tires wont be a issue as I'll most likely be buying a set of 265/75/16 Duratracs for winter & they are only a 32" tire. And under $200 a piece, LOL. A buddy of mine has a shop so I'll do the crank there so we can do everything at once easily. He can align it for me there as well. I'm not totally out on the BL, I would consider a 1.5-2" later on, but I think a 3" is too much for my liking personally.

Eventually I will have a true lift on it, but it'll probably be a couple years.

So on the shocks again, stock shocks should be ok for how much lift before buying shocks all around should be done? I got no problem buying a set in December. I have seen alot of people talkin about the Bilstien 5100 shocks & those are only about $80 each unless I looked wrong.


Oh I also noticed when searching for rear blocks that alot of them are out of cast iron. Its Aluminum you do not want correct? Iron is ok? I also noticed listings for rear lift leafs instead of blocks, whats the difference there?

For 265 tires you don't need any lift. They came that size stock. But if you are set on some lift go with a 1" zero rate, it bolts to the spring pack much better then a block. Though for a block you want the cast iron ones not aluminum.

For shocks you will be fine with your current ones. I think the bilstein 5100 are only for lifted setups but are worth the extra money.

 

[big_mike]

Ok, I have a question about cranking, I read some conflicting info. I have seen people say crank both sides & then I saw someone say for a OBS you have to crank one side & de-crank the other but this didnt sound right to me, is that correct? I know from reading that the keys dont do anything except for the 99+ model trucks, so I wont waste money there.

Sorry for the dumb question but what exactly is the "zero rate" your mentioning? Is it a replacement lift leaf with 1" lift?

I have also heard of people finding the smaller block kits at local parts stores, are those safe to use? I havent looked around for those yet but have heard you can normally find those kits for about $40.

I chose the 265's for price mainly, but if my buddy can get me hooked up on tires I'll go 285's.

 

[Hezsus]

I would go 285's but thats just me, Pretty well any cast iron block is good, make sure they have the nubs on the ends to lock in. when cranking you can do it however you want, just crank both side the same then take it for a little drive, hit a bump or 2 to settle everything and then measure your fenders to make sure you are level, make any adjustments, take her for another drive. then get it alligned. also good choice on the Duratracks, they're a great tire

 

[big_mike]

Ok, so then cranking both the same direction is the right way? Not crank one & de-crank another unless its not level correct after the initial crank? That makes sense to me.

I guess I need to go measure my tread depths as well since I have a little different numbers all around. Makes me think some tires are more worn than others which would make sense given the measurements I got. I'm gonna go look at a couple parts houses today for block kits. I noticed there are square & round u-bolt kits, which u-bolt do I need for this year of truck?

Thankx for all the help guys.

 

[Southern Pride]

Hell no crank both same direction forget whatever you heard about crank one and de crank the other but just like dirtridinz71 supposedly you're just doing this for "ground clearance" well you're going to gain 0 ground clearance by cranking, or body lifting, or doing a 15" suspension lift. The ONLY thing that will give you more ground clearance (raising the height of your lowest point, axles) is going up in tire size. Honestly the most common route is crank + 285's I would suggest 285's if you want to gain any ground clearance at all and you can do that by just cranking the front up 1.5" and you wouldn't even have to mess with the rear or worry about it rubbing.