Whats the best option??

[Hezsus]

i'm only cranked 1" with 285's on stock and i only rub a little at full lock. cranking costs nothing and you can run the 285's without a block in the back too. then you can see how you like them, if you want to crank more or get a bl.

 

[big_mike]

I'm gonna grab a tape from the shop at work on lunch, what should my measurements be from ground to top center of fender opening? Will they all be the same if level? Sorry, probably a dumb question but wasnt sure.

I think if its not cranked at all I might try the slight crank first, I dont mind it riding a little rougher, hell my TA rode like a Vette, it'll take alot for this truck to be that stiff. I'm also debating some pocket style fender flares with some Crager soft 8's or the Procomp wheels that are similar.

How much crank does it normally take to get level if its at stock height all around now?

 

[big_mike]

Well after a little more reading I'm leaning toward the crank & rear blocks with 33" tires. Now I'm curious about shocks, I see some that are sold as a "+" shock, so like a +2 for instance. Would I need to grab a set of these? Are they designed to make up the difference in lift or do they also offer some lift?

Here are my measurements from the flat parking lot to the center top of each fender opening.

Driver front: 34.5"
Driver rear: 35.25"

Pass. front: 34.75"
Pass rear: 35.5"

Is it normal to get measurements like this?

 

[jonwin]

I had 1.5 crank with helper leafs in the rear about 1 of lift and ran 325/60/18s with light trimming on the bumper and they fit fine. No rubbing

 

[TruckinAin4Sissies]

I'll take a tape to mine when I get home. I
'm running 32" all terrains on 15" rims. No clue if mine has been cranked or not.

 

[big_mike]

After doin some more reading & finding pics of different front ends cranked to different amounts I went out & took a good look at mine & they are almost perfectly horizontal, so I'm assuming they have not been cranked any from the factory.

So now I'm really thinking about 1.5-2" crank & rear block, thats the cheapest, fastest way to get a little more height. And from everything I found I should be ok as long as I dont just mindlessly crank to horrible angles. I'm getting a feel for this now, I just gotta keep a close eye on my angles & make sure I dont exceed a certain amount.

 

[Southern Pride]

Option B all day long for a guy like you man. Trust me you put a 2" block in the rear and you WILL have to over stress your suspension just to make it sit level, and most likely it would sit lower in the front than the rear (which is by far the worst looking thing a truck could ever have) is Texas rake YOu want to know how I know? I was dumb and desperate to lift my truck a couple inches when I was 16. Yeah it didn't last long. Sounded like a 2x4 snapping in half going over speed bumps at 2 miles an hour.

I say option B BUT go with a 2" body lift instead of the 3...With a 2" I don't believe it's as much of a PITA installing because I've heard you don't have to extend certain things being only 2" lift instead of the typical 3 PLUS the 2" body looks so much better. Every single inch really matters with body lifts because the bigger it goes, the worse it looks. With this route you would save TONS of money in the long run saving suspension part life ALSO you could still give it a nice 1" crank and have it level or a tad stouter up front which looks best.

There is NO reason at all to crank and put blocks on your truck EVERY single reason is pointing toward the body lift...It will give you a real 2" and look stout with 33's..It will be the height the Z71's should have come from the factory I didn't read any replies just had to give my .02

Did I mention the body lift would not affect the way your truck rides at all? It would ride EXACTLY as it does now..Where as 2" block/crank your shocks are over extended and terrible angles and you would most likely need 2" lift shocks in the front...Just more and more reasons popping into my head why a 2" body is the way to go. I could go all day.

You can really hide a 2" body and people wouldn't know it was there unless they were one of us...

 

[RHamill]

Sitting higher in the rear makes more sense than sitting higher in the front.

You don't shoot an arrow with the arrow head on backwards.

 

[Southern Pride]

but a crank and block is cheaper, but harder on the frontend

So in the long run it's not cheaper at all. My Moog balljoints are $40 a piece if not more x4 plus tierods, cv's, and hubs bearings...Replacing front end parts all at once you can easily spend $1000...Body lift and be happy, don't worry be happy now

Big Mike, I can teach you all the tricks to having the cleanest body lifted truck on the block (hiding everything) and not saying the other members can't, but I'm here to help ya out, if you decide to do the BL.

 

[Southern Pride]

Sitting higher in the rear makes more sense than sitting higher in the front.

You don't shoot an arrow with the arrow head on backwards.

Not really man and sorry but that's a terrible comparison. Look at my truck. It is no less capable towing or any other function than a truck that is lower in the front and higher in the rear.