Whats the best option??

[big_mike]

I have been searching & reading & pricing for weeks now & I'm still undecided on whats the best option for me. My truck is my daily driver so mileage will build at a steady pace, this is important for the suspension parts IMO. So with this in mind here was my 2 ideas that are viable $$$ wise. Truck is a 97' ECSB Z71 4wd.

Option A: Rough Country level kit & 2" block in rear with the bars cranked but not fully.

Option B: 3" body lift, stock rear block & bars cranked level

My worry about cranking the bars is the suspension parts. Everything I have rear says it wears them out fast the closer you get to fully cranked & puts some not too good angles on the suspension parts.

I'm not lookin to go real big, just a little bigger than stock. I'm not goin any bigger than a 33" tire either since its my daily. I have also heard something about just adding a block to the rear with Ford TB keys with slight cranking. How does this compare to the kit? I know its cheaper, but does it do exactly the same thing?

 

[jonwin]

Personally I would go with option b. A body lift can look pretty good if you put the time into it with painting the frame and gap guards and relocating bumpers. Then if you want to level it out you can crank stock keys a good 1.5 to 2 inches....leveling keys are just reindexed keys that are basically cranking, so there not A real point to them because you can crank to max with stock keys.

If you crank just make sure to get an alignment so you dont get uneven wear on your tires.

 

[big_mike]

I found a 3" body lift with front/rear bumper brackets & gap guards for $460 from Summit, it that a good deal or can a fully kit with all those parts be had cheaper? I'm still really new to trucks & not sure where the best places to find parts are yet.

 

[jonwin]

Check these out
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-7810013/?image=large

Streetsideauto.com

Gap guards are really easy to make at home and cheap

 

[big_mike]

Ok, so the "re-indexed" keys, technically then all it does is make you not have to be fully cranked to get the same lift as the stock keys right? But it still changes the CV angles the same amount? Is that correct? So say with a stock set of keys you get 2" fully cranked, you might get 2" & still have more left with the re-indexed keys? Of course given the CV angles I'm still curious why someone would want to crank past the limit of the stock keys after I did some more reading. Seems like asking for trouble later on.

That Summit brand kit came out about $100 cheaper with the brackets & gap guards added to it. You mentioned making gap guards, I did some searching but didnt find much, what material are people using?

 

[Hezsus]

depends what your doing really, if you just want bigger tires a bl is good and cheap, but a crank and block is cheaper, but harder on the frontend. i would reccomend a little crank and a 1.5" block with the body kit if you still want more. dont waste you money on reindexed keys, if you cant get enugh crank out of stock keys your tbars are bitched.

 

[big_mike]

^^Which brings up a good point, I have also read about guys switching to the 3/4 ton TB's which are supposed to be stiffer. Or at least thats what I'm getting out of reading I have done. Some say you get slightly more lift cause of the stronger bars not flexing as much, would this be correct?

The only thing thats starting to turn me off about the body lift is hearing guy talk about running hotter after b/c of the fan staying in the stock position. I really dont wanna mess with electric fans right now. Later on I might switch to LS1 fans with a manual switch, but not right now. I'm not looking for a towering truck, just slightly higher than stock Z71 height. I dont plan on goin bigger than 33" tires due to being my daily driver & tire costs. I need to measure my fenders right now & see if its already cranked, it seems to sit pretty level & is about as high as my co-workers F150 that has a leveling kit & 295/70/17 Terra Grapplers on it.

I will be playin in the mud/snow with this truck but nothing major. 3" higher would be about perfect. I seriously considered the slight crank & block as I agree its the cheapest, but I dont want my front end to need a rebuild in 3k miles either since its not just a weekend play truck. I think what I would get from a crank & rear block with 33" tires would be exactly what I'm lookin for height wise though. If that gives you any better idea what I'm wanting.

Sorry if some of this is stupid in my face stuff, I'm still learning as I go & just dont want to regret goin a certain route.

 

[Hezsus]

Mike, i was in the same situation as you and there was enough negative with a bl that i just sold mine, exhaust will look weird if you raise the rear bumper, bumper will look weird if you dont, lots of frame showing, no real clearance gains without a bigger tire, rad shroud (i havent heard of cooling issues but it is possible) and its way harder to install than a block and crank (still pretty easy though).

not sure about the Tbars, i thought that some of the 2500 had diferent lower control arms.. not sure though. you should be able to get good crank out of even wore bars. if your worried your cranked too high show us a pic and we'll tell ya, i'm running 33's with a little crank and air bags in the back, if i put any lift on now it will be a susp, but i'm quite happy. if you use quality front end parts when yours wear out (if they do) you shouldnt have problems.

I vot crank and block (or airbags cause they're cooler)

 

[big_mike]

K, here is a pic I have from the place I bought it from as it sits now. I haven't touched anything except new power steering lines since buying it. I'd love a true suspension lift as well but its just not a option at this time.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[dirtridinz71]

After having a truck lifted both ways you are debating I think the bl is the better choice for what u are after. I had a ecsb with a 3" bodylift and 285 tires on factory 16s and also had rcsb with 2" block and crank with 33s on 15x8 wheels. The crank just sucked, hard on front end parts rode rough and still rubbed. With the bl I had the bumpers and exhaust raised, no heating problems either. I can post pictures later if interested.