Older 350 block

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GMCTRUCKS

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Well, I was gonna pick up the engine this weekend but it sold yesterday. I'm now looking at this: http://lasvegas.craigslist.org/pts/2899473911.html.
Guy says that it has less than 3,000 miles on it. Having already discussed the issues with the swap itself, I was wondering if there is any info you guys who happen to be a lot smarter than myself could give me with regards to dropping this particular engine in my 1993 K1500 ECSB. Good deal? Decent power?

See if you can get any info that it has those miles if so go for it. Make sure your brackets will bolt up to the block and so on.
What about now that your there use some Vortec heads they flow much better than the first TBI heads.
 
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Swims350

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I highly doubt it having serp. setup to be sure use the one you got on your serp. setup if not buy one it's cheap.
 

farmerman96

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I would say that the guy is full of crap.

LOL! I started to feel the same way as I talked to him more. He has no way of showing that it has that few miles on it and just from the pictures I was concerned with the amount of oil residue for such a low mileage rebuild. Talked to two more guys, one has this: http://lasvegas.craigslist.org/pts/2958125949.html

He said it was built to hit 390 hp, bought it from a guy who supposedly lost his job and only put 1 mile on it and he only put 300 on it. Had his old one rebuilt instead because he said that he was having a hard time getting the starter aligned and that the holes needed to be re machined... Seemed scetchy.

Lastly, I talked to this guy: http://lasvegas.craigslist.org/pts/2924233921.html

Rebuilt by himself, 0 miles on rebuild. Swears he used to work as a mechanic for Chevy, who knows. He told me that he lowered the price to $1000 but is negotiable because he is getting ready to travel and could use money.

Gonna go with the latter on Saturday. Heads alone must be worth 750...
 

GMCTRUCKS

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I highly doubt it having serp. setup to be sure use the one you got on your serp. setup if not buy one it's cheap.

What I meant is use your serp setup but make sure the heads on the engine your getting has drilled holes on heads so your setup will work.
 

GMCTRUCKS

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Brain storm over here one can pick up a LS engine block cheap what about going that route and use a carb that way when the engine is pulled you can see how miles is on the clock just a thought. My engine still uses no oil and I have 183K miles on it but if I was replacing it I would go with a LS setup and let my little bro set me up with hooking it up the correct way he owns Spike Performance & Tuning down south.

I hope you find a good engine keep us informed.
 

skylark

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I would agree on the second engine being the better of the engines that you've looked at. Call me crazy but on a fresh build I want to see bare freeze plugs and the gaskets unpainted. It could easily be a "rattle can rebuild".
 

Swims350

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What I meant is use your serp setup but make sure the heads on the engine your getting has drilled holes on heads so your setup will work.

I was talking about the OP. I think he was the one who said it being from a vette would have serp. and that means nothing. Someone may have changed it or anything. The water pump is cheap and I would change it anyways, just like a block mounted fuel pump.

As for bolt holes I had already mentioned that too, some of the early motor heads didn't have any holes, or didn't have enough etc. So yea gotta check on them for sure to reuse an old setup.
 

farmerman96

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I only said that since he had put it in his 1986 vette that the pump could possibly be for a serp since I doubt the guy would switch to v belts... Going with the second engine anyway so no worries with that, just the intake doesn't have the mounts for the serp system, easily overcome... Never would I make the assumption about ANYTHING on the motor especially with the cooling system, I would have verified with the seller and if I still wasn't confident I would have put mine on it... Picking it up tomorrow so I will let you guy know how it goes in
 

farmerman96

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So dragging up a dinosaur here... Got the new engine in, running strong but I have 2 issues. I first have a knock on the drivers side but whats weird is that its the same knock as the previous engine. I pulled the 5 and 7 plugs one at a time and it actually seemed to run slightly better, lower rpms and the knock was quieted although not gone. I did notice a crack in the dizzy below the rotor (is that a magnet?) so maybe spark is jumping across it or something? Not to worrying because its the same as in the previous engine, just need it fixed. Also my injectors are whining to high heaven, or at least I think its the injectors. I originally thought it was the alternator and so I replaced it but that didn't help at all. Injectors don't care about polarity right? I can't hook them up backwards can I?
 
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