b454rat
I'm Awesome
Machine shop I go to uses diesel oil on initial start. I've had a couple built by him and they turned out fine. Once it's broke it, whatever oil you want to use will be fine.
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As far as hardware, I used an EP381 fuel pump, an 18 LB spring in the TB Pressure Regulator, had the TB bored to 46mm and "Ultimate Mods" to it. Then a WBO2 Sensor, and a bunch of tuning.Worded that badly, obviously not a stock tbi but what all did you do to modify your fuel system to support your build?
380 hp/400 tq ish would be perfect
Right now I can cruise right up pretty steep hills in 3rd/4th (I have the 5spd as previously mentioned) in the 1000-1200 rpm range (thanks 4.10 gears) and id like to continue to do that. From what I've read as long as I don't go too crazy with my cam I can keep my low end.
Would a zinc additive make a difference? Is there any solution for the oil problem?
Cats aren't an issue, I live in Washington where there's no emissions testing so I won't be running cats.
Worded that badly, obviously not a stock tbi but what all did you do to modify your fuel system to support your build?
Thanks everyone
OK, now I see your cam as listed by you is advertised duration, not at .050". Big difference there, at first it looked like you'd picked a rager of a cam until I looked it up by part number.
Flat tappet cam is an automatic no, aluminum rockers also no for durability reasons. You want a dual plane intake for this application, electric waterpump is not needed because you don't need to run the pump in the staging lanes, neither is a special oil pump.
Here's what I'm getting out of all the input, which there is quite a bit of.As far as hardware, I used an EP381 fuel pump, an 18 LB spring in the TB Pressure Regulator, had the TB bored to 46mm and "Ultimate Mods" to it. Then a WBO2 Sensor, and a bunch of tuning.
Possible. NOT going to happen with a GM TBI without heaps of trickery.this will be my first performace rebuild on a 350
I have a 1995 K2500 350... ...Its going to be my daily so it needs to have a fairly flat torque curve. I'd like to make 380 ish hp. I don't tow regularly.
I don't see that getting 380 hp on a "happy" aftermarket dyno--never mind on a very-rare honest dyno operating the full SAE protocol.Comp Cams Xtreme Energy Hydraulic flat tappet (#CL12-249-4) cam and lifter kit (Lift: .434" /.444" Duration: 249°/260° RPM Range: 1000-5000)
OK. Make sure the included valve springs will work with the cam you select. (i.e., are the springs suitable for a roller cam? Will they handle the lift you intend?)Jegs aluminum heads 195cc intake, 64cc chamber (#555-514063)
Oh, HELL, NO. That company sells bottom-feeder Chinese junk. There's nothing in their catalog I'd trust without SUBSTANTIAL inspection, and most of it I wouldn't touch with a ten-foot pole. Their crap is so bad that they had to change the name of the company because folks figured-out that Pro-Comp Electronics sold nothing but dreck. It's easier/cheaper to change the name of the company than to start selling decent product.Speedmaster Aluminum Roller Rocker, 1.6 Ratio (#746-PCE261100801)
Probably overkill. Main studs, and head-bolts would be as far as I'd go. Re-use all the other fasteners so long as they passed a visual examination--not stretched/necked-down, not rusted, not bent, threads in good condition, etc.ARP bolts and studs kit
Read up on all the folks having problems with aftermarket fuel injection systems including Holley-branded.Holley sniper II with full fuel system
I guess. I'm told that single-plane manifolds work well with injection; I've historically been a dual-plane guy--but also carbureted.Single plain intake (tbd)
Absolutely not. You do not know what size main and rod bearings you're going to need, you do not know what size pistons you're going to need, and you REALLY don't want thick, plain cast-iron rings because it's not 1940 any more. Moly-filled top rings were OEM on engines starting in 1965, at least go that far. Ideally, you'd have thin rings and pistons that weren't sabotaged by having low compression height. Those pistons have been reduced by .020 on the compression height, and they use 1970-style enormous thick rings. JUNK.Rebuild kit from summit (#SUM-SBCKIT3-311)
Yeah...maybe.Shorty headers (tbd)
Not my first choice. "I" would spend actual money for a nice Y-pipe, then a single MANDREL-BENT exhaust of sufficient diameter (3" or bigger) from there--saving the cost of bending one set of pipes, and one muffler.3in dual exhaust with X pipe and 2 straight through magnaflow mufflers
Oh, HELL NO.Looking at electric water pumps
M99HV-S from Mellings. Comes with pickup and driveshaft. Will require some trimming of the windage tray, and careful fitment of the pickup assembly. The pickup should work with a stock oil pan, may need something different if you go to a different pan.and high output oil pumps aswell (recommendations are appreciated)
I doubt it. RPM too low, cam too mild. Going 383 will help--figure 33 additional cubic inches should be an additional 33-ish horsepower and 40-ish ft/lbs of torque everything else being equal. Perhaps more, depending on the rest of the components selected and the computer tune.2. Am I going to make the kind of power I want?
Not with Speedmaster parts, or pistons with specs that were modern forty years ago.3. Will I make this power reliably
ABSOLUTELY.4. Assuming I tear my block down and there is not extreme wear, should I still get it decked and honed?
ALL SBC connecting rods are forged. Either forged mild steel, or forged powdered-metal. At your power level and intended usage, stock rods should be perfectly adequate.I'm going for high 300s (380?) So it sounds like a forged bottom end would'nt be extremely necessary. Especially since I don't plan to rev above 5000-5500 rpm.
You're going to be screwing with the computer tune anyway. Might as well add some cubes to make it worthwhile.When I was looking at rotating assemblies on summit, I was seeing alot of 383 kits for $600-800. Cast steel and aluminum (not forged). Would it be that much more exspensive to get a 383 kit, have the block machined to a 383, and start with a solid bottom end that way? Would it make sense to go that route for a solid bottom end and spend less on top end? If it's not much more $ than staying with a 350 (because it sounds like i should replace and machine most of the bottom end anyway) I might go that route.
Well, of course the rods will be forged. The crank and pistons might not be, though.Yes if money allows look at a 383 assembly and no need for forged rods or pistons at 400 Hp
Agreed. Then you can drive your truck until the replacement engine is ready to drop-in. No removing the engine and not driving the truck until the machine shop is finished with it three months later.I personally would buy a 350 core engine with the factory roller cam.
Used to be that "Diesel" motor oil was dual-rated for both Diesel and Spark ignition. There may still be some that are...but many are now Diesel-ONLY.Machine shop I go to uses diesel oil on initial start.