How do you remove torsion bars?

[ShadowRejects]

I know the whole torsion tool and removing the key bolt, etc.. but I heard something about removing the shocks in the front as well and dropping the whole front end to release all the torsion? That's where im lost, i have brand new bars I got in the mail today and have no idea on how to remove the old ones I've tried searching here and youtube and bing/google... no luck

 

[kamokevin]

I know the whole torsion tool and removing the key bolt, etc.. but I heard something about removing the shocks in the front as well and dropping the whole front end to release all the torsion? That's where im lost, i have brand new bars I got in the mail today and have no idea on how to remove the old ones I've tried searching here and youtube and bing/google... no luck

From what I could gather on here you'll have to jack it up, release the tension in the bars, soak it all in a ton of penetrating oil, probably have to heat up the surrounding areas with a torch, and pound them until they give

 

[Chris.G.Jr.]

ya know ya got the new ones right?

Cut them old sum bitches out with a sallzaw (or something similar)!!!! lol

 

[88GMCtruck]

It's pretty easy, and IMO safer than using the tool. DO NOT USE A 2-JAW PULLER. I've done it and many people have, but there is a very large amount of risk of it slipping off the crossmember. I know mine bent one time installing lift keys.

Jack the truck up, take the wheels off. You will have to disconnect the shock, sway bar end link, and remove the lower balljoint. In any case, once you are ready to disconnect the lower balljoint from the a-arm, you'll want to put a jack stand or floorjack under the a-arm to keep some pressure on it, but not much (almost to the point of full droop). At this point, to make things easier you may also need to remove the caliper, rotor, unit bearing and CV axle. Anyway, once everything is disconnected, use the floorjack to GENTLY lower the a-arm until the pressure is released.

This is what my truck looked like with the knuckle removed, obviously a GMT800 but principle is the same. I never released the torsion bars because I didn't have to, but at this point if I needed to I would have removed the jack stand, and used the floor jack to slowly lower the a-arm until pressure is released. It helps to have a nice deep cup on the floorjack.

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[88GMCtruck]

ya know ya got the new ones right?

Cut them old sum bitches out with a sallzaw (or something similar)!!!! lol

I hope your joking. Torsion bars are under a tremendous amount of pressure and that would be extremely dangerous!

 

[ShadowRejects]

ya know ya got the new ones right?

Cut them old sum bitches out with a sallzaw (or something similar)!!!! lol

Hahaha thats asking for people with a deathwish

 

[ShadowRejects]

It's pretty easy, and IMO safer than using the tool. DO NOT USE A 2-JAW PULLER. I've done it and many people have, but there is a very large amount of risk of it slipping off the crossmember. I know mine bent one time installing lift keys.

Jack the truck up, take the wheels off. You will have to disconnect the shock, sway bar end link, and remove the lower balljoint. In any case, once you are ready to disconnect the lower balljoint from the a-arm, you'll want to put a jack stand or floorjack under the a-arm to keep some pressure on it, but not much (almost to the point of full droop). At this point, to make things easier you may also need to remove the caliper, rotor, unit bearing and CV axle. Anyway, once everything is disconnected, use the floorjack to GENTLY lower the a-arm until the pressure is released.

This is what my truck looked like with the knuckle removed, obviously a GMT800 but principle is the same. I never released the torsion bars because I didn't have to, but at this point if I needed to I would have removed the jack stand, and used the floor jack to slowly lower the a-arm until pressure is released. It helps to have a nice deep cup on the floorjack.

You must be registered for see images attach

thanks for the help man. and I'm diggin' the transformer emblem on the side!!

 

[JollyGreen]

Just like Dave said. It will probably be a bigger pain in the a$$ to get the bars out of the keys than the lower arms. At least it was for me. Soak the hell out of each end for a few days. That should help. Also, make sure you reference where where the lower arm sits when connected, with no tension on it BEFORE putting the bars back in. Don't ask me how I know.

 

[88GMCtruck]

thanks for the help man. and I'm diggin' the transformer emblem on the side!!

Thanks. Placed them where the little GM mark of excellence goes on the newer vehicles, as well as one on the tailgate. Family always called the truck "bumblebee truck" well before the new transformers movies came out, so they fit as a neat subtle touch.

Just like Dave said. It will probably be a bigger pain in the a$$ to get the bars out of the keys than the lower arms. At least it was for me. Soak the hell out of each end for a few days. That should help. Also, make sure you reference where where the lower arm sits when connected, with no tension on it BEFORE putting the bars back in. Don't ask me how I know.

I bet THAT was fun.

I installed lift keys with a puller once, the next time the bars were unloaded on the 88 they were never re-loaded....

 

[Kyle97GMC]

I have taken mine off a few time and I just jack up the front, take off the tires, take out the bolt (I always have used a ball joint press from AutoZone), and then just pop those suckers out. Then remove the cross member so you can get the new ones in and replace! They are pretty easy